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Discussion Starter #1
While removing my sway bar (since I sheared off a mounting bolt trying to put on poly bushings and couldnt get an easy out to work on it) today I noticed that I have a small crack in my drivers side UCA near the rearmost bolt of the BJ. Since this is my only vehicle and I still needed to drive it (to drive home from my parents garage, where I was doing the work, to my apartment), I am concerned. Its not that big, just goes from the front edge to the rear bolt on the BJ, but still.

On my drive home from my parents I noticed a bit of creaking when the suspension would load up on the drivers side (such as in a turn).

My question is do I need to replace both control arms or am I ok just replacing the one? Also, has anyone heard of Mevotech? RockAuto has them in stock for $115 but I have never heard of them before. I was going to go with Raybestos but they are apparently out of stock on them(I can put them in my cart but when I go to checkout, it tells me they are unavailable and were removed from my cart).







As a side note on this issue....I also removed the added bump stop that was provided when I put on my SMAXX front lift. My upper arms always seemed to be hitting them and I honestly feel that it is the reason my arm has a crack. The added stress, to just that one side of the arm couldnt be good for it.
 

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RIP Forrest
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How much crank do you have, mine has had a hairline crack for prolly a year and a half, I just lessened the crank when I seen it to reduce the stress so it doesn't unload front end weight as easily
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How much crank do you have, mine has had a hairline crack for prolly a year and a half, I just lessened the crank when I seen it to reduce the stress so it doesn't unload front end weight as easily
I'd say I probably have close to 3". I could probably lower it down a bit but with the 285/70-17's it's already a tight squeeze with a little bit of rubbing.
 

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355 Parts Hoarder
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Too much crank causing the BJ to bind. I had my UCA crack in the same spot, you can get the AC delco UCA's pretty cheep or look into Slick and Dirty's Control arms if your looking to upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Too much crank causing the BJ to bind. I had my UCA crack in the same spot, you can get the AC delco UCA's pretty cheep or look into Slick and Dirty's Control arms if your looking to upgrade.
I flipped my BJ and it never seemed like it was binding, but I suppose it could be that. I ordered a new drivers and passenger side arm last night and will be throwing them on when they get in. Figured I would replace both just to be safe. Ill crank it down a little bit too.
 

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RIP Forrest
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12,421 Posts
Not really the bind it's when your uca hits the bumpstop bracket on droop and the whole suspension is trying to drop more but is being limited but the uca. If anyone was serious enough you could limit the lca to stop before the uca hits and it should solve the issue
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not that I'm planning on doing it but why couldn't someone just cut that bumpstop extension off and in essence keep the upper arm from hitting it on full droop?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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RIP Forrest
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You could but there will still be a point of limit somewhere, idk what reaches limit after that but I know the tie rod ends are close, it would basically be trading one problem for another without a limiting strap of some kind
 

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maniac mechanic
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Yup undead is right on that one. If you remove the stop you will just take the stress from the control arm to the balljoint, and then you risk breaking a ball joint or prematurely wearing them and that's not a smart risk to take.

Remember safety comes before amount of lift, not just for you but for those who drive on the same roads as you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got the drivers side UCA in and had it aligned and everything seems to be much better. No more popping sound when I turn or the suspension unloads. Probably due to the crack in the arm (which wasn't THAT bad, just went from the front edge to the bolt hole closest to the rear of the vehicle).


As a side note, I do not recommend anyone ever buy MevoTech parts. The parts I got from RockAuto were the correct part numbers and the arms were technically the same, the BJ's and hardware were completely different for both sides. One UCA had a greaseable BJ with a bad looking boot and properly pressed in studs with black looking nuts, while the other had a non greaseable BJ with a better looking boot, poorly pressed in studs, and gold looking nuts.
 
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