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HELP, ABS brake issues, warning lights

6K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  OldTime 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all. My truck is a 2006 GMC Canyon Extended Cab, 2WD, auto., 2.8L with 63K miles. It’s been in the garage all winter, as I drive my other 4WD vehicle. Last fall, I started getting brake fault warnings and lights, and now I have to get a state inspection at the end of next month, and am told that it will not pass with the warning lights on.

The brakes seem to work fine, although I’m not sure if the actual ABS system is working since I’m rarely in a situation where they would trigger, since I don’t drive it in the snow. There is an "ABS Fault" banner that flashes just above the odometer, a rounded "ABS" orange indicator to the left that is on, and the red square “brake” indicator to the right that is on.
I took it to a shop today to have it scanned, and was told that it shows a fault in the Electronic Control Module, and that it would be expensive, as in approx $900. This is not something that I can afford right now, and am looking for other options so that I can pass the inspection and get the sticker, otherwise I may have to go back to driving the other truck for a while.

I’m not looking for “illegal” suggestions, but hoping for a temporary inexpensive fix (like I found with cutting the wire for the Passlock system), and that is why I’m looking to the experts here on the forum. I’m not overly concerned with having the ABS working right now.

I’m wondering if there is a way to make the warning lights go out, such as removing a fuse. I had the shop clear the code, but the warning lights still come back on. I had a similar issue on a Buick front wheel drive a while back, and I was able to clean the connectors on the sensors, and it was fine for another year or more before I had to replace the sensors and bearings. So at this point I’m wondering if this is a common glitch with a temporary fix, etc. Seems like low mileage to be having major brake issues, but I’m not a mechanic, so I’m not sure. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.

JT
 
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#2 ·
I don't think you have many options here. Since you have a code you know what is wrong and can easily fix it by going with the $900 repair. A second option is a used part that the shop or you can install. If this is a shop you trust, ask if they know of a way to clear the code to pass inspection until you can make a permanent repair.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the input guys. They didn't tell me the actual code number, and I didn't think to get it, they just said that it was the module, and it was actually 2 different places that I got to scan it.

I called the parts store, and they didn't stock it, said it was a dealer item. I called the GM dealer and it's $966. Even the guy from GM said it's not an item that goes bad very often, especially on a lower mileage vehicle like mine, so I'm going to have to get someone to trouble shoot it.

I'm needing a windshield too before the inspection is due next month, so I'm not inclined to just throw 966 at it if it "might" be that. I may end up driving the F150 for a while.

If I can get it scanned again, I'll get the code number to give to you guys. I appreciate the help.

JT
 
#8 ·
Without knowing the DTC, there isn't any way to figure out what the problem is without "hands on" troubleshooting. It could just be the electronic module, which can be replaced separately. Rockauto sells that Module, ACDelco, part number 19121730, for $214.79 +ship.
They also have the complete assembly, ACDelco, part number 19121727, for $430.79 +ship.
 
#13 ·
That DTC could indicate an internal issue with the Module, which, as mentioned, can be replaced separately from the valve body. You didn't mention any troubleshooting. Did anyone check the two ABS fuses? Try disconnecting and reconnecting the EBCM connector. Make sure the small black box on the fender wall next to the EBCM is well grounded. Remove the mount bolt and clean the tab surface and the fender wall. If you don't have a scan tool, disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes. That should erase the code, although if nothing has changed, it will more than likely set again.
 
#14 ·
I checked the fuses and they're ok. I had planned on cleaning the connector with some Deoxit, but haven't had a chance to do it yet. I'll check the ground on the black box you mentioned. I don't have a scanner, so I'll have to disconnect the battery. Thanks for the suggestions. Will update.
 
#15 ·
The first thing that popped when I googled that code is the check the gas cap. Apparently, it's a pretty vague code that just indicates a communication problem between components. At least your code is a little more specific.
And the wiring harness in the read door of an extended cab can cause an airbag fault, but not an ABS fault. The wires that go to the seat belt retractor can break and it throws the airbag light on the dash.
 
#16 ·
Another question: When I got the code scanned, a couple of people told me that if I do change that module, that I would have to get the GM dealer to re-program it. Is this true, and at what point do I have to have that done? I'm guessing that un-hooking that plug to clean it won't require the re-program? Just if the module is replaced? Because if I do end up ordering a new one, I guess I can't replace it at home?
 
#18 ·
Hiway star,
I had a “abs failure”as well as no code in the dic. Took it to my mechanic and had him look at it. He informed me that the abs module is a weak point in the brake system. If your truck is a 2 wd Or 4 wd the most important item, is to match it with what you have. You do not need the entire module. Just get the little black box connected to the module. When you remove it by removing 6 screws that hold it to the aluminum block, you will. See what looks like 6 little mushrooms in the block. By the way a few days later the ABS System cleared the fault by its self. There is a video on YouTube about changing the sensor. Check it out. A salvage yard for a wrecked canyon or Colorado would be your best bet.
Good luck.
 
#17 ·
According to the GM Service Manual, replacing the Module does not require programming. Replacing it at home would depend entirely on your expertise and tooling. PM sent.

Keep in mind that while it is likely an internal fault, it could also be a wiring issue. Just reminding you that troubleshooting from a distance isn't always effective. :)
 
#19 ·
Thanks Hhrumph. That's exactly what I did. Got a used one from a salvage yard. Haven't had a chance to replace it yet because I've been getting ready for an out of town trip in my F-150, which does not have the instrument panel lit up like a Christmas tree.

The only problem I can see is that the wrecked truck had 293K miles on it. That's good to know one of these trucks made it to that many miles, maybe not so good for the module. But, I got it very cheap, and I'm just looking to see it it clears the lights. If it solves the problem, I may just spring for a new module, or wait to see how long the used one lasts.
 
#21 ·
Update: My friend helped me get the used module installed today. Did not fix the problem. Still have all of the same warning lights.

He suggested that it could be the wheel sensors, but I would think I'd have a code for that if it was the problem.

Not sure what I'm going to do next.
 
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