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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a ’04 Canyon Crew off-road 2WD in March (now with 117,100mi). I already did the token blower resistor replacement, and stuck thermostat to become a true 355 owner! Now I’ve got a tough one. A couple weeks ago going 10-15mph out of a cul-de-sac I touched the brakes (not hard), and the ABS kicks in and I get ABS and traction faults showing on the dash with the customary music (beeps). These go away in a day, but then it happens again a few days later. It isn’t happening every time I brake? Yesterday the ABS kicks in (again, dry pavement, slow left turn, light touch on the brakes) but doesn’t show fault warning on the dash. So last night I borrowed a scanner to pull the codes. This morning I’m backing out of the driveway, not touching the brakes, and I feel the rear right wheel skipping on the pavement (I’m pretty sure it was the rear, but may have been the front wheel). No warnings pop up on the dash (I may see if I can go and scan the computer for new codes later today). Here are the codes I pulled last night:
C0035 – R. front wheel speed sensor
C0220 – L. front channel in release too long while in ABS
C0268 – ABS history 1. Class 2 data error
C0899 – Batt. Voltage low
U1064 – ABS lost comm. with BCM

I changed the oil last night and noted that the neg. connection on the battery post was loose which may explain the one code. Some of what I'm reading tells me it could be just a bad hub, but this morning's event was odd. Any help would be gladly welcomed. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I did borrow the scanner over lunch and C0268 showed up again. I did clear the codes listed in my first post last night before returning the scanner so this code is the only new one today and I assume it's connected to that goofy wheel skidding I had this morning. I payed attention backing out of the driveway at lunch and realized I do give it a little brake to slow the reverse so I'm guessing I did the same this morning when that happened.
 

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4 yrs 2 months. I tested it while at auto part store, but put higher CCA in the tester than what the actual battery has. I didn't want to take the battery box apart in the parking lot. The actual one is a carquest 86-60, CA 675, CCA 540...which I believe is lower than the OE. Would that make a difference?
 

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So isn't the truck running off the alternator once it's started? I'm not doubting that it may be the battery, it just seems odd. I'd be thrilled if that is all that it is.

FWIW, I did test the alternator when I tested the battery and it found no problems.
 

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So isn't the truck running off the alternator once it's started? I'm not doubting that it may be the battery, it just seems odd. I'd be thrilled if that is all that it is.

FWIW, I did test the alternator when I tested the battery and it found no problems.
When my battery went. It was running fine. Then all of a sudden it started throwing reduced power mode and running like shit. Sure enough the battery had a bad cell. My alternator was fine as well so idk.
 

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4 yrs 2 months. I tested it while at auto part store, but put higher CCA in the tester than what the actual battery has. I didn't want to take the battery box apart in the parking lot. The actual one is a carquest 86-60, CA 675, CCA 540...which I believe is lower than the OE. Would that make a difference?
I didn't see this post earlier. If it's the battery it should test bad. Unless it's just low but the cells are fine. Maybe try charging the battery up a bit to see if that helps. Just a thought. other then the bat I have no clue
 

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You did not say the battery was load tested at the parts store, so I'd suggest you have you battery load tested. It's fast and free. Battery doesn't need to be removed...they have to test it connected anyway.

I'm not at all certain if low voltage will throw ABS codes, but low voltage throws all sorts of other codes.

You might get off easy and just need a battery.
Others have backed up my thought with them suggesting a typical electrical gremlin as a result of low voltage.
 
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