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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 06 i4 Colorado Crew can with 186k on it. And it will not start. It won't fire it sounds like

So I have the following codes:
P0017
P0128
P0300
P0455
P1381
U1040

Now I did use the search feature to try and help myself but I had no luck. Can anyone chime in and tell me where I should start replacing parts? Should I start with the coil packs? Or should I start with the cam shaft position sensor/cam shaft actuator solenoid? I'm at a loss on what to do to get my girl up and running again
 

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US Army 19yrs and ......
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If someone comes in here and says the PO300 is automatically the bad head.........there will be a ePunch to the dick for it :hulk:

What scan tool are you using?
 

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Curious, did all of those DTCs show up at the same time? P0128 and P0455 wouldn't have anything to do with the engine not starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I honestly have been ignore the light for a while. It has been on due to no abs and I didn't check to see if anything new had shown up. So I want to say yes but I'm not 100% sure.

I am using my scan gauge interceptor to read the codes
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This may help also

My wife drove the truck last, when she pulled in and came to a stop the CEL flashed a few times then she shut the truck off. I got in it two days later to move it, it cranked over ran for less then ten seconds and stalled out (I attribited this to a bad coil pack). When I went to start it back up it cranked as if it was going to start then just did nothing at all. Just spun and spun and spun and didn't fired didn't backfire didn't do anything. Almost as if the motor wasn't spinnign at all. And that is still what it's doing now, spinning and not firing

Now like I said I know I must have a bad coil pack (mia-fire + flashy CEL) but I know that is not what's causing the issue of not starting. All 4 packs gong bad at the same time is highly unlikely isn't it? I did check fuses and didn't see and blow ones.
 

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P0017 = Cam/Crank Pos. Correlation Sensor B - Bank 1
P0128 = Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temp
P0300 = Random/Multiple Cyl Misfire Detected
P0455 = EVAP Emission Control Sys Leak (Large)
P1381 = Misfire Detected - No Communication with Brake Control Module
U1040 = Loss of Class 2 Communications with ABS

From the looks of these, you have a multitude of issues...some probably been there awhile. P0017 & P0300 are your probable non-start culprits so I'd start there. P0128 = thermostat replacement will fix. For the P0455 EVAP leak, I'd do the smoke test as they can be tough to locate. P1381 & U1040 could be bad ABS sensor, low brake fluid, leaking somewhere...etc. I'd take it to a Brakes Plus or something similar for free assessment. Good luck & hope this aids a bit w/your woes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It was working. Idk if that's what went out or not. What would be the way to check to see if it's working?
 

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It was working. Idk if that's what went out or not. What would be the way to check to see if it's working?
If you are unsure if it is working or not, have another person cycle the key while you sit next to the gas tank. You should hear a buzzing or whining noise. If there isn't a noise, check your fuel pump fuse and relay first. If neither are failed, replace the pump.
 

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I would disconnect the ABS electrical connector and see if the engine will start.

You may have a shorted out ABS module causing a class-2 communication problem with the BCM to PCM serial data line for the passlock signal.

Also check all your under hood fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the input guys. Unfortunately wih the weather I'm sick so as soon as I feel up to it I will try some suggestions yall have given and I'll update you guys.

If it was a pass lock issue would there be any type of warning lights or anything? I thought there was a light the illuminated when there was a pass lock issue
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, after a little bit I have got the a new fuel pump. Here is the shit part. The old pump was so rusted out that while trying to drop tank and remove lines, the fuel lines from the top of the fuel pump snapped off in the fittings. I tried everything I could to get those fittings apart and get the rust-locked piece of line out. Any suggestions on how to get these apart or if not a not so expensive way to go about replacing these fittings?
 

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When i changed my fuel pump one if the lines was a pain to gey off but i didnt break anything i pulled the bed off which made it easier i used some wd40 and pair of needle nose and the fuel disconect tool to get mine loose
 

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When i changed my fuel pump one if the lines was a pain to gey off but i didnt break anything i pulled the bed off which made it easier i used some wd40 and pair of needle nose and the fuel disconect tool to get mine loose
He has a crew cab. I believe the fuel pump in under the cab, not the bed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah it is under the cab, I found out the hard way when I tried to cheat and cut an access panel in the bed only to find the fuel pump to far forward under the cab of the truck :(
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I have the new fuel pump in and a new cam shaft position sensor in. I also replaced my battery cable ends Bc I had a loose connection and I couldn't get the ends to tighten down more. Truck still only turns and turns but won't fire. 0 CeL codes left Bc the battery died and it sat for a few days that way. I am not sure where to turn next, I have spark, I have fuel pressure but it doesn't even sound like it's making an attempt to start up when it's cranking over. Where should I look next? How can I tell if I hav a pass-lock problem. When I turn the key to ACC the pass lock light is illuminated but when I try to stArt the truck the light goes out. I also tried disconnecting both ABs sensors and that did not help. :th_crazy::hulk::mad5:
 

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You replaced the fuel pump but have you had the fuel pressure checked at the fuel rail fitting?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I did not actually get to read the fuel pressure but I def have pressure at the bleeder right before the fuel rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
*Bump*

Anyone have any ideas on this one? After work today I am going to do a compression test and check all the wiring connections I can access at this point to see if I can at least get it to run.
 
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