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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone out there have a reamer I can borrow and mail back to you to perform the tie rod flip. That damn thing is expensive for a one time use. Also, after the flip (for the ones that have done it) do you use a thicker washer or stack washers or anythig like that.
 

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probably has extreme angle from TB crank
 

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RIP Forrest
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I don't think I would flip it on stock spindles. It will throw your steering all out of whack through suspension travel. The tie rod ends would have to thread much further in and mount much higher up, then you have a truck that drives like crap and a ruined set of spindles.
 

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crank down then so you don't start breaking stuff.....

Or become a hazard with a truck that doesn't steer properly after you 're engineered' your steering system.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't think I would flip it on stock spindles. It will throw your steering all out of whack through suspension travel. The tie rod ends would have to thread much further in and mount much higher up, then you have a truck that drives like crap and a ruined set of spindles.
I want to bring them back inline closer to the way they were sitting proir to the TB crank. I still have enought space on top to do so and there used to be a kit to do this. In fact there still is but its in Canada and cost more to ship than the part itself.
 

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RIP Forrest
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I know I have seen ball joint spacers for the uppers. I have never seen anything for the tie rods. The issue is going to be where if you look now your tie rods are pretty much parallel with the lower arm, if you bring the mount up, when the suspension compresses with a crank, your tires are forced outward, so wen the tire hits up travel the higher and less parallel mounting point of the tie rod end is going to pull the tires in towards each other. I ran into the same mess trying to run coil lift spindles on a z71 truck and flipping the tie rod ends over. After changing lanes at highway speed from rough patches of highway I bought I full suspension kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know I have seen ball joint spacers for the uppers. I have never seen anything for the tie rods. The issue is going to be where if you look now your tie rods are pretty much parallel with the lower arm, if you bring the mount up, when the suspension compresses with a crank, your tires are forced outward, so wen the tire hits up travel the higher and less parallel mounting point of the tie rod end is going to pull the tires in towards each other. I ran into the same mess trying to run coil lift spindles on a z71 truck and flipping the tie rod ends over. After changing lanes at highway speed from rough patches of highway I bought I full suspension kit.
The tie rods are at an angle, Ill get a pic of it tonight and we can discuss then.. there is a Tie bar flip how to on this forum somehwere I have seen it. thanks
 

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yes... similar angle as the lower control arm so they move with the suspension as Undead was saying

you don't want a horizontal tie rod and an angled LCA
 

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if you are worried about strength and/or wear then check out the stronger ones Slick & Dirty motorsports sells
 

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RIP Forrest
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Or get greasable ends from oreillys and save $650. That's what I just put on mine for about $25 each. Should outlast the stock ones
 
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