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Discussion Starter #1
When I tried to start my truck this morning to go to work there was a slight hesitation (2-3 seconds) before it turned over. Once it did it started right up like normal and drove to work fine.

After work it started right up with no hesitation just like it always has. So I thought it must have been a fluke. But on the way home I stopped to pick up some dinner and when I came back out (probably sat 2-3 minutes) it hesitated again and then started and drove home fine.

Its never done anything like this before, is this some kinda indication the starter is going bad? I have an ultragauge and the second time I immediately looked ar the battery voltage and it said 14.3 also the battery is relatively new.

My coly is a 2006 3.5l I5 crew cab z71 with just under 100, 000

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That sensor never issues a CEL.

It just makes the truck run rough, hesitate on starts, etc.

Sometimes they leak oil, sometimes they have screens inside that break off, float around and detonate your engine.

New ones come with a spiral wound wire to keep the screens from doing that.

It's a 30 dollar part and a 4 minute job. It's worth doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well thats not the problem. Replaced it yesterday and it did it again 2 out of 3 Times I started it today. The first time it was just like before but the second on was about twice as much delay. Defiantly head a clicking sound both times.

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Hesitation to turnover (Now Wont turnover)

Tried to go to work this morning and all I got was a click. Would not turn over at all. After about 10 minutes of messing with it and hooking up jumper cables it finally started. It has to me the solenoid right? in my experience electric motors either work or dont work. Is there anyway I can test them? I already called into work so ive got the day to mess with it

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Battery connections can look OK and not be, our stock battery clamps are J U N K. Many of us have cut them off and replaced them as opposed to dealing with the issues.

So, this task will only take you 10-15 minutes.

First, remove the negative battery cable from the battery and then the positive. Touch them together and set them aside (still touching) to reset the BCM and PCM. I used to clamp them together in the positive cable cover and wrapped them behind the brake reservoir.

The first ground is right behind the battery, flat on the fender. Remove it with a 10mm wrench and sand it to remove corrosion from the eye lug (try not to remove the tinning and expose the copper) and sand the rust/paint/grime off the fender to make a better connection.

The second is the ground pack on the drivers fender behind the battery. 10mm to remove, sand both the fender and the eye as before. Open the pack and check for corrosion inside. If there is any, you can either hit it with battery terminal cleaner (acidic, wash with water after it's done foaming and spray down with QD cleaner to quick dry, repeat till clean) or you can try to sand the contacts. After you sand, be sure to hit with a glob of dielectric silicone before reconnecting it.

The same process is repeated on the passengers side fender behind the stock airbox.

The other grounds are harder to reach, one is on the engine block (18" extension from the drivers wheel well with a deep 15mm socket will reach it after you remove the fender cover, but good luck cleaning it without taking the tire off) the other 3 are inside the cab below the carpet. I haven't had a need to clean those, but did after pulling the carpet to bedline the floor pan.

A bad ground for the starter would be corrosion between it and the engine block, or between the alternator and engine block where they bolt together. Those should never need cleaning unless something is very wrong.
 

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I had this problem. Turned out the battery was a like 1180 and out trucks need 1240 or something to start. I went through all the same shit you did. Checked the connections. But when I took it to the audio shop to have my radio re-tuned they told me that the connection on the positive side was loose and wasn't getting a good connection so they put a new one on along with putting a red top in. Haven't had a problem since (even though it's only been a day ha)


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Discussion Starter #13
The battery has been in there about 6 months and its started fine on some sub zero days so think its good but ill double check.


Ive checked all the grounds from starter plus the spots already mentioned and they're all good. I also added some grounds from the starter to frame, alternator to frame, and battery to frame just incase it was a grounding problem. But im still thinkin its got to be the starter or starter solenoid. (Leaning towards solenoid since its intermittent)

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I don't know where the idea that the truck requires an 1200CCA battery (if that is what was referenced to above. I reinstalled a 650(stock) battery, perfect. Perhaps in a cold climate a larger CCA battery is necessary. But if it's not sub zero, a stock battery is likely sufficient.

I'd say take the truck to your local parts store to have the battery load tested.
 
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