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How to replace 2004-2005 Colorado/Canyon bushings (with or without lift.)
There may be factors for those who do not have a suspension lift that I am unaware of, such as things in the way of getting the rack out of the vehicle. But as far as the actual bushings and replacement of them, this will be the same.
Also there are a few things that I would have done differently if the need for my truck to get to work Monday was not a factor, however parts were not available in my given timeframe. I will address these as we go through this instructional and you will have the chance to plan a little better and substitute for the other recommendations I have to give you. That being said I have experienced zero issues with the way I needed to do this, but if I could have, there are things I would have adjusted.
Disclaimer: I have two years performing chassis/suspension repairs and upgrades; Professionally. However this does not negate the fact that the parts I am listing as replacement for 2004-2005 Colorado/Canyon bushings are not how the manufacturer intended them to be used and I am not responsible for any damage or injury sustained from replacing, this post is only a showing of my personal experience and sharing that with others. If you choose to replace 04-05 Colorado/Canyon rack and pinion bushings with bushings that were intended for use with another vehicle and a different application, and any other alteration(s) you perform on your suspension and respective fasteners, I am not responsible for your choice to do so and this posting is not to be construed as a fix or suggested replacement in place of what the manufacturer specifies as proper procedures and parts for doing so.
Things to note - When I specify in the tools list that it is a tool required for bushing replacement labeled "LIFT KIT APP". This is referring to a to suspension lift that drops the control arm mounts by adding a new cross member; bolted to the one already in place by the manufacturer, those who don't have this new cross member can ignore the tools that are labeled accordingly. And items marked with “#” means I cannot remember if they were actually needed and suspect they are not or it is one or the other listed. I did this project a week ago so exact sizes have gotten fuzzy but I should not miss listing any of them. I want you to have a better edge, with all your bases covered when going through this project. Unlike I had due to my tools being at work and dimensions were unavailable until the bushings came out.
TOOLS LIST:
☻Floor Jack - I used the bottle jack equipped with the vehicle.
☻Jack Stands
☻The tools you personally need to remove wheels. Tuner key, 19mm, ect. (Varies per person)
☻Ball-joint press - *A c-clamp would probably do however you will need a fitting that provides between a 47.65mm-51.50mm inner diameter and a depth that exceeds 31mm (these measurements will make more sense as we get to work) a ball-joint press kit provides a fitting of this size although I do not know what the intended application for this fitting was originally, so I am unable to specify. Renting a BJ press *with fittings* from O'reillys, providing you don't already own one will definitely have you covered.
☻Cut-Off Wheel - obviously an air compressor if a cut-off wheel is an option available for you. (Sawzall with metal blade can substitute in a pinch.. it's a pain though. Or a hack saw with metal blade..) - LIFT KIT APP.
☻Prybar
☻Hammer
☻Punch
☻Safety glasses
☻Gloves
☻1/2 Drive breaker bar
☻1/2 Drive torque wrench
☻1/2 Drive ratchet
☻Sockets in 1/2 drive as following:
-15/16 or 24mm (this is for your convenience, both of the 15/16 wrenches are still needed)
-21mm or 22mm (unable to remember which was needed to remove nut on outer tie-rod ends, I believe 21mm.) - A wrench may substitute, although more effort is involved.
☻Long, flex head 3/8 ratchet
☻Standard length 3/8 ratchet
☻Assorted 3/8 extensions
☻3/8 Swivel socket adapter
☻Sockets in 3/8 drive as following:
- 10mm
- 11mm
- 12 , 13, 14mm# (I believe it's 12mm, this is for the skid plate)
- 15mm (deep and shallow)
- 17mm (deep and shallow) - LIFT KIT APP.
☻Wrenches as follows:
- 15/16 (You will need TWO. Ideally both 15/16 so is not to round the bolt head, however the second wrench may substitute with a 24mm or crescent wrench if need be.)
- 17mm - LIFT KIT APP.
PARTS LIST:
☻Clauss Studios - Hummer H3 rack and pinion bushings. - I purchased this in hopes the flange style bushings would either fit 04-05 app or be a larger bushing. They are smaller. I came to find that the bushing that wraps around the rack is the same, however it’s made with polyurethane and better reinforced. From this kit I also needed the steel sleeves that go through the flange style bushings. The seller has not posted any more yet so you may need to research to find another H3 kit containing the wrap around bushing. If you do not have any play in the bushing I mentioned, it will be more cost effective for you to find two, 5/8 x 7/8 x 3" steel sleeves in addition the Dodge Ram bushings.
Fits Hummer H3 2006 10 Steering Rack Bushing Set | eBay
Polyurethane-New-/111868714320?nma=true&si=VkhTp6yfqk5War2vBXZT%252BLxxDAw%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
☻ x2 1994-2002 Ram Track bar bushings. I have read there are two options for diameter so those who do not have a Napa Autoparts nearby and can't use the part number I list, be sure to get the option that is 38mm diameter.
- Napa part number 274-9352
☻Napa part number 605-1342, this is a box of O-rings that contain a 7/8 edged O-ring that is optional but I would recommend it or the better option here in place of this O-ring would be two to six, 7/8 washers that do not exceed 37mm in outer diameter. (I would have preferred this route but could not find any.)
☻Power steering fluid
As you can see because of the items you need to order from different sources, and the price on the H3 bushings set. The way I had to go may not be the best option for you, even though it is $120.00 or so less than the Mayhem Metal Works kit.
- My total cost $80.00 and a sore neck.
1. Wrap seat belt through the steering wheel and buckle it. This will prevent your wheel from spinning. If this step is ignored and the wheel spins while the rack is disconnected from the steering linkage, you will have to disconnect the rack again and find center in order to get your vehicle properly aligned again.
2. Lift front vehicle with floor jack and safely secure in the air by placing floor jacks under frame.
3. Remove front wheels and place behind front wheel wells, under the frame as precaution of vehicle slipping while you are under it.
4. (Optional) Remove front skid plate, this will make life easier when loosening the bolt going through the steering rack.
4.5. Remove differential skid plate with 17mm wrench and 3/8 ratchet with 17mm socket. -LIFT KIT APP.
5. Remove nut on both sides of vehicle that connect the outer tie-rod to the steering knuckle. You can use a pickle fork if you have one.. But I prefer to just tap the knuckle with a hammer until the tie-rod breaks free. This goes without saying, but DO NOT HIT THE TIE-ROD. Put the nut back on a few threads if you think you have bad aim to protect the threads while you tap on the knuckle.
6. Next, the 15/16 bolt that runs vertical as shown in the picture, take your cut-off wheel and remove a small section of the bolt head only as much as you need to slide it past the cross member. Do not cut into the shaft of the bolt, as this will jeopardize the bolts integrity. - LIFT KIT APP.
6.5 Remove the bolt.
7. Remove the two 15mm bolts holding on the bracket containing the wrap around bushing. There is one on top and one on bottom. Only the bottom one can be seen in this picture, this is the new bushing. I forgot to take a before pic here.
8. Disconnect the power steering line located at the front of the rack and pinion, it should be 10mm and you will need a long extension to get to it. Let it drain and keep a drip pan under it while you continue to work so is not to make a mess.
9. Disconnect rack where the shaft is fastened to the steering link. 11mm
10. Loosen the final 15/16 bolt that runs through the cross member horizontally. This may just be due to the lift kit, but without removing the sway bar you cannot get this bolt all the way out, however I saw no reason to have it all the way out.
11. Remove the rack, although it was a bit of a pain, I suspect this will bring some more issues for those who do not have a suspension lift. I hope you will not have to remove anything further. But if you can't shimmy it out, asses what might be in your way and if you have the facilities to safely remove it for the duration of this project.
12. Now that you have your steering rack out, you will need to use the ball-joint press to remove your old bushings, as shown.
13. Because the rim of the new bushings is as thick as they are, you will need to remove some material. The best option I had since I couldn't go to work and use the lathe. Was my bench grinder. I took about half the material off so the bushings would fit closer to the length of the sleeve as well as meeting closer inside of the housing. (I did not intend to remove material from the actual diameter of the bushing, the bushing did get scuffed however and still fits tight.)
14. This is where you have some option, this step is not necessarily required. I'm just a paranoid guy. But if you chose to purchase washers, just figure out how many you need and use them as a shim where the bushings meet inside the housing due to the small gap. I couldn't find washers to fit both over the sleeve and in the housing so I cut in half one of the O-rings and slid it onto the metal sleeve where the bushings meet. Just to fill the gap.
NOTE: You will be using the sleeve that came with the H3 kit, not the Dodge Ram kit. The Dodge kit has sleeves that are too small (inner diameter) for the mounting bolts.
15. Press them back in, Use the same process to press them out, in reverse. If you do not know how to use a press, look for it on youtube and you should be able to take away some knowledge from someone pressing a ball joint or something. I did this by the process of GREASING the hardware, bushings and housing. Then putting the sleeve in one half, then O-ring on that. I pressed this assembly and then pressed the opposite half into the housing.
16. You are ready to go back together, this has already been long winded so I will save you (and me) the time of retyping it all backwards. But just go through the same process in reverse. I do not know other than the wheels (90ft pds) what the torque specs are for everything removed. You will need to find out and torque accordingly. And don't forget to fill your power-steering fluid. It also would not hurt to get your truck aligned as well, seeing as how it may have last been aligned with bad bushings! Have fun, and be safe! - Josiah
There may be factors for those who do not have a suspension lift that I am unaware of, such as things in the way of getting the rack out of the vehicle. But as far as the actual bushings and replacement of them, this will be the same.
Also there are a few things that I would have done differently if the need for my truck to get to work Monday was not a factor, however parts were not available in my given timeframe. I will address these as we go through this instructional and you will have the chance to plan a little better and substitute for the other recommendations I have to give you. That being said I have experienced zero issues with the way I needed to do this, but if I could have, there are things I would have adjusted.
Disclaimer: I have two years performing chassis/suspension repairs and upgrades; Professionally. However this does not negate the fact that the parts I am listing as replacement for 2004-2005 Colorado/Canyon bushings are not how the manufacturer intended them to be used and I am not responsible for any damage or injury sustained from replacing, this post is only a showing of my personal experience and sharing that with others. If you choose to replace 04-05 Colorado/Canyon rack and pinion bushings with bushings that were intended for use with another vehicle and a different application, and any other alteration(s) you perform on your suspension and respective fasteners, I am not responsible for your choice to do so and this posting is not to be construed as a fix or suggested replacement in place of what the manufacturer specifies as proper procedures and parts for doing so.
Things to note - When I specify in the tools list that it is a tool required for bushing replacement labeled "LIFT KIT APP". This is referring to a to suspension lift that drops the control arm mounts by adding a new cross member; bolted to the one already in place by the manufacturer, those who don't have this new cross member can ignore the tools that are labeled accordingly. And items marked with “#” means I cannot remember if they were actually needed and suspect they are not or it is one or the other listed. I did this project a week ago so exact sizes have gotten fuzzy but I should not miss listing any of them. I want you to have a better edge, with all your bases covered when going through this project. Unlike I had due to my tools being at work and dimensions were unavailable until the bushings came out.
TOOLS LIST:
☻Floor Jack - I used the bottle jack equipped with the vehicle.
☻Jack Stands
☻The tools you personally need to remove wheels. Tuner key, 19mm, ect. (Varies per person)
☻Ball-joint press - *A c-clamp would probably do however you will need a fitting that provides between a 47.65mm-51.50mm inner diameter and a depth that exceeds 31mm (these measurements will make more sense as we get to work) a ball-joint press kit provides a fitting of this size although I do not know what the intended application for this fitting was originally, so I am unable to specify. Renting a BJ press *with fittings* from O'reillys, providing you don't already own one will definitely have you covered.
☻Cut-Off Wheel - obviously an air compressor if a cut-off wheel is an option available for you. (Sawzall with metal blade can substitute in a pinch.. it's a pain though. Or a hack saw with metal blade..) - LIFT KIT APP.
☻Prybar
☻Hammer
☻Punch
☻Safety glasses
☻Gloves
☻1/2 Drive breaker bar
☻1/2 Drive torque wrench
☻1/2 Drive ratchet
☻Sockets in 1/2 drive as following:
-15/16 or 24mm (this is for your convenience, both of the 15/16 wrenches are still needed)
-21mm or 22mm (unable to remember which was needed to remove nut on outer tie-rod ends, I believe 21mm.) - A wrench may substitute, although more effort is involved.
☻Long, flex head 3/8 ratchet
☻Standard length 3/8 ratchet
☻Assorted 3/8 extensions
☻3/8 Swivel socket adapter
☻Sockets in 3/8 drive as following:
- 10mm
- 11mm
- 12 , 13, 14mm# (I believe it's 12mm, this is for the skid plate)
- 15mm (deep and shallow)
- 17mm (deep and shallow) - LIFT KIT APP.
☻Wrenches as follows:
- 15/16 (You will need TWO. Ideally both 15/16 so is not to round the bolt head, however the second wrench may substitute with a 24mm or crescent wrench if need be.)
- 17mm - LIFT KIT APP.
PARTS LIST:
☻Clauss Studios - Hummer H3 rack and pinion bushings. - I purchased this in hopes the flange style bushings would either fit 04-05 app or be a larger bushing. They are smaller. I came to find that the bushing that wraps around the rack is the same, however it’s made with polyurethane and better reinforced. From this kit I also needed the steel sleeves that go through the flange style bushings. The seller has not posted any more yet so you may need to research to find another H3 kit containing the wrap around bushing. If you do not have any play in the bushing I mentioned, it will be more cost effective for you to find two, 5/8 x 7/8 x 3" steel sleeves in addition the Dodge Ram bushings.
Fits Hummer H3 2006 10 Steering Rack Bushing Set | eBay
Polyurethane-New-/111868714320?nma=true&si=VkhTp6yfqk5War2vBXZT%252BLxxDAw%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
☻ x2 1994-2002 Ram Track bar bushings. I have read there are two options for diameter so those who do not have a Napa Autoparts nearby and can't use the part number I list, be sure to get the option that is 38mm diameter.
- Napa part number 274-9352
☻Napa part number 605-1342, this is a box of O-rings that contain a 7/8 edged O-ring that is optional but I would recommend it or the better option here in place of this O-ring would be two to six, 7/8 washers that do not exceed 37mm in outer diameter. (I would have preferred this route but could not find any.)
☻Power steering fluid
As you can see because of the items you need to order from different sources, and the price on the H3 bushings set. The way I had to go may not be the best option for you, even though it is $120.00 or so less than the Mayhem Metal Works kit.
- My total cost $80.00 and a sore neck.
1. Wrap seat belt through the steering wheel and buckle it. This will prevent your wheel from spinning. If this step is ignored and the wheel spins while the rack is disconnected from the steering linkage, you will have to disconnect the rack again and find center in order to get your vehicle properly aligned again.
2. Lift front vehicle with floor jack and safely secure in the air by placing floor jacks under frame.
3. Remove front wheels and place behind front wheel wells, under the frame as precaution of vehicle slipping while you are under it.
4. (Optional) Remove front skid plate, this will make life easier when loosening the bolt going through the steering rack.
4.5. Remove differential skid plate with 17mm wrench and 3/8 ratchet with 17mm socket. -LIFT KIT APP.
5. Remove nut on both sides of vehicle that connect the outer tie-rod to the steering knuckle. You can use a pickle fork if you have one.. But I prefer to just tap the knuckle with a hammer until the tie-rod breaks free. This goes without saying, but DO NOT HIT THE TIE-ROD. Put the nut back on a few threads if you think you have bad aim to protect the threads while you tap on the knuckle.
6. Next, the 15/16 bolt that runs vertical as shown in the picture, take your cut-off wheel and remove a small section of the bolt head only as much as you need to slide it past the cross member. Do not cut into the shaft of the bolt, as this will jeopardize the bolts integrity. - LIFT KIT APP.
6.5 Remove the bolt.
7. Remove the two 15mm bolts holding on the bracket containing the wrap around bushing. There is one on top and one on bottom. Only the bottom one can be seen in this picture, this is the new bushing. I forgot to take a before pic here.
8. Disconnect the power steering line located at the front of the rack and pinion, it should be 10mm and you will need a long extension to get to it. Let it drain and keep a drip pan under it while you continue to work so is not to make a mess.
9. Disconnect rack where the shaft is fastened to the steering link. 11mm
10. Loosen the final 15/16 bolt that runs through the cross member horizontally. This may just be due to the lift kit, but without removing the sway bar you cannot get this bolt all the way out, however I saw no reason to have it all the way out.
11. Remove the rack, although it was a bit of a pain, I suspect this will bring some more issues for those who do not have a suspension lift. I hope you will not have to remove anything further. But if you can't shimmy it out, asses what might be in your way and if you have the facilities to safely remove it for the duration of this project.
12. Now that you have your steering rack out, you will need to use the ball-joint press to remove your old bushings, as shown.
13. Because the rim of the new bushings is as thick as they are, you will need to remove some material. The best option I had since I couldn't go to work and use the lathe. Was my bench grinder. I took about half the material off so the bushings would fit closer to the length of the sleeve as well as meeting closer inside of the housing. (I did not intend to remove material from the actual diameter of the bushing, the bushing did get scuffed however and still fits tight.)
14. This is where you have some option, this step is not necessarily required. I'm just a paranoid guy. But if you chose to purchase washers, just figure out how many you need and use them as a shim where the bushings meet inside the housing due to the small gap. I couldn't find washers to fit both over the sleeve and in the housing so I cut in half one of the O-rings and slid it onto the metal sleeve where the bushings meet. Just to fill the gap.
NOTE: You will be using the sleeve that came with the H3 kit, not the Dodge Ram kit. The Dodge kit has sleeves that are too small (inner diameter) for the mounting bolts.
15. Press them back in, Use the same process to press them out, in reverse. If you do not know how to use a press, look for it on youtube and you should be able to take away some knowledge from someone pressing a ball joint or something. I did this by the process of GREASING the hardware, bushings and housing. Then putting the sleeve in one half, then O-ring on that. I pressed this assembly and then pressed the opposite half into the housing.
16. You are ready to go back together, this has already been long winded so I will save you (and me) the time of retyping it all backwards. But just go through the same process in reverse. I do not know other than the wheels (90ft pds) what the torque specs are for everything removed. You will need to find out and torque accordingly. And don't forget to fill your power-steering fluid. It also would not hurt to get your truck aligned as well, seeing as how it may have last been aligned with bad bushings! Have fun, and be safe! - Josiah
