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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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The community here at 355nation.net urges you to please use caution and seek professional assistance when performing modifications to your vehicle. Before attempting any modification it is advised that you refer to your Colorado or Canyon service manual or contact a certified mechanic as not all GMT355 trucks are the same. The staff and the associated members are in no way responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm inflicted to your vehicle or yourself which may result in attempting these modifications. The posts and content presented on this site reflect in no way the views of 355nation.net or it’s ownership.




A 355nation How To presented by
USAFquez

Project Description
H11 OPT-7 H.I.D. Conversion Kit Install

Skill Level
Easy

Project Vehicle
Make: GMC
Model: Canyon
Year: 2015
Engine: V6
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed
drill
torx bits
1" hole drill
flathead screwdriver
blade


Project Time
2 hours

Project Cost
$65.99 + Shipping

***EDIT*** You MUST install the OPT7 Capacitor (Sold separately) in order for these lights to work with the Daytime Running Lamps

1. So here's the kit made by OPT-7. I bought it from Ebay for $65.99 from user burkemotopros. The kit is for an H11 to HID conversion.




2. I started with the driverside since it was the easiest. It's a waterproof setup with all the wiring internal. The cover is removed by spinning it counter clockwise.




3. I needed to remove this one tab on the new wire harness. It will not fit with it in place.



4. Next I needed to make a hole big enough to get the connector that I just modified through the rubber grommet since it will be plugged inside of the headlight housing. I guess I forgot to take a picture of the wire actually through the grommet.


5. Since the ballast, igniter, and misc. wiring will not all fit into the housing, I had to drill a 1" hole to allow the wiring from the factory harness out of the housing then to the ballast/ignitor, then back into the housing to the bulb. Again, I forgot to snap a photo of the grommet in place. sorry



6. Finally for the driverside, I mounted the ballast next to the battery using double sided 3M tape that came with the kit. Then I connected all the fool proof wiring (each connector will only fit in one place).



7. Now for the passenger side. This was a little more challenging due to the fact that there is this plastic/rubberized shielding covering the entire backside of the headlamp. First I removed some of the locking clips to remove this little panel. There's also one small torx screw near the front.




8. The other way I found to get to the bulb is through the inner fender. I removed 6 torx screws and that allowed me to move it out of the way enough to get to the bulb.


9. Now that I had access to the bulb, I just repeated the process on this side. Here's a photo with the ballast in place.





And now, what everyone's been waiting for... Before and after pictures!

Before


Left is HID, right is Halogen


Halogen


HID


HID


HID w/fog lights




HID cutoff


HID up close


Thanks for reading
 

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Awesome job and great how-to...thks for taking the time to write-up & post for others to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have an update about the HIDs. I didn't realized this until later but the daytime running lights on the new trucks run at a lower voltage that if you just had the lights turned on. For those of you that know how HIDs work, you know this is a bad thing for them. HIDs need a solid +12v source to work properly. If they installed in a car/truck with lower voltage DRLs, they will flicker and ultimately get damaged.

So I'm in the process of trying to figure out my ultimate solution on this. As of now, I'm just turning off the DRL (Auto) function as soon as I get in my truck. Sometimes I turn the parking lights on just because I like the way the front LEDs look.

One option I've thought of was making some sort of small cover for the light sensor on the dash near the windshield. This would fool the DRL system into thinking it's night all the time therefore turning on the lights at full voltage. I'm looking for something discreet that I can cover it with.

I wanted to post this so that people who've read this "How-to" don't think I didn't run into any issues and that I was being misleading. Once I figure out my permanent solution I will post them. Overall, I still don't regret the install since the light output is so much brighter and safer.
 

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I have an update about the HIDs. I didn't realized this until later but the daytime running lights on the new trucks run at a lower voltage that if you just had the lights turned on. For those of you that know how HIDs work, you know this is a bad thing for them. HIDs need a solid +12v source to work properly. If they installed in a car/truck with lower voltage DRLs, they will flicker and ultimately get damaged.

So I'm in the process of trying to figure out my ultimate solution on this. As of now, I'm just turning off the DRL (Auto) function as soon as I get in my truck. Sometimes I turn the parking lights on just because I like the way the front LEDs look.

One option I've thought of was making some sort of small cover for the light sensor on the dash near the windshield. This would fool the DRL system into thinking it's night all the time therefore turning on the lights at full voltage. I'm looking for something discreet that I can cover it with.

I wanted to post this so that people who've read this "How-to" don't think I didn't run into any issues and that I was being misleading. Once I figure out my permanent solution I will post them. Overall, I still don't regret the install since the light output is so much brighter and safer.
I live near Supermod. So with that in mind, he made a bypass harness you plug into the fuse box to change the DRLs on the 07-12 355s from the low beams to the turn signals. When I get my Colorado, maybe we can work on mine to possibly reproduce a similar harness to change the DRLs from the low beams to something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have an update about the HIDs. I didn't realized this until later but the daytime running lights on the new trucks run at a lower voltage that if you just had the lights turned on. For those of you that know how HIDs work, you know this is a bad thing for them. HIDs need a solid +12v source to work properly. If they installed in a car/truck with lower voltage DRLs, they will flicker and ultimately get damaged.

So I'm in the process of trying to figure out my ultimate solution on this. As of now, I'm just turning off the DRL (Auto) function as soon as I get in my truck. Sometimes I turn the parking lights on just because I like the way the front LEDs look.

One option I've thought of was making some sort of small cover for the light sensor on the dash near the windshield. This would fool the DRL system into thinking it's night all the time therefore turning on the lights at full voltage. I'm looking for something discreet that I can cover it with.

I wanted to post this so that people who've read this "How-to" don't think I didn't run into any issues and that I was being misleading. Once I figure out my permanent solution I will post them. Overall, I still don't regret the install since the light output is so much brighter and safer.
I live near Supermod. So with that in mind, he made a bypass harness you plug into the fuse box to change the DRLs on the 07-12 355s from the low beams to the turn signals. When I get my Colorado, maybe we can work on mine to possibly reproduce a similar harness to change the DRLs from the low beams to something else.
Yeah, definitely let me know what you figure out. I looked through the manual to see if there's a DRL fuse that I could pull but there isn't one listed. I think the white LED strips are tied into the front parking lamp wiring, so getting the strips to light up independently would require some rewiring.
You could use electrical tape trimmed to fit that sensor for now till you figure it out permanently.
right now I have a ping pong ball cut in half and a 2 liter bottle cap that I've sprayed with black plasti-dip drying in the garage. We'll see if they work tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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After 2012 they changed the wiring harness again so the drl is no longer has its own circuit. There were a couple write ups on how to disable drl on a newer cadilac or impala and if I can find them I'll post them up for you to compare with your truck. These newer cars and trucks wiring is looking very similar.
 
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