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A 355nation How To presented by
fuzzkill

Add factory power windows locks and mirrors
How to add factory power windows, locks, mirrors, and panels to your manual optioned truck

Project Description
Install new power assemblies, install new door panels, run new wiring and power

Skill Level
Advanced

Project Vehicle
Make: GMC
Model: Canyon
Year: 2005
Engine: 5.3L
Power windows: No
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed
  • 10mm socket/extension
  • Torx set
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Multimeter or power probe
  • 100+ ft of quality wire (recommend 16 gauge for all except power and ground which should be 12 or 14 gauge)
  • Inline fuse holder and relay for power
  • Soldering gun and heat shrink
Project Time
5 to 6 hours

Project Cost
Varies on availability, I spent $300 total

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I wanted to add factory door locks/windows/mirrors to my base model Z85. I didn't want an add on kit, have to drill doors for actuators, add switches to the door panel/etc. I picked up a set of door panels, door latches/actuators, and door harnesses for $150 from a junkyard. I bought new regulators/motors from my job and got to work!

Just a heads up the wiring into the doors is very tedious and time consuming. I spent a few evenings putting it all together. A multimeter or power probe is a must as well as some basic electrical knowledge (i.e. can read an electrical diagram). I will also assume that most of you have a decent knowledge of your truck, so I may leave out some small details. Feel free to ask if you need an explanation or if I skipped something.

You do NOT need to tie in to the BCM for this to work. I did because I am going to add factory keyless entry to my truck. For just adding power windows and locks it does not matter how your truck came configured factory.

First step, roll down the window about 3/4 of the way. Next, remove the 3 screws and remove the door panel. Remove the vapor barrier as well/ If you're lucky, you will see the two bolts that hold the window to the regulator. If not, you may need to move the window up or down until you can access both bolts through these two spaces



Unbolt both (10mm) and either slide the window up and tape in place or remove the window from the door and set aside.

Now, remove the bolts for the regulator (10mm). There are 6 bolts. Two can be loosened (yellow) and slid out, the others need to be removed (red)



Next take your new power regulator and install it the same way you removed the manual regulator. You can now reinstall or lower the glass onto the new regulator. Most likely, you will need to move the window up or down to be able to access the bolt hole windows again. You can jump +12v or -12v to the thick wires going to the window motor connector to move it up or down. Use the power probe or some test leads/spare wire to do this. Once the window is securely bolted in, you can go ahead and raise the window all the way back up. Process is identical for the passenger side.

Now for the power locks. The door latch and actuator comes as a complete assembly. First, reach up into the door and pop the door lock rod clips loose and disconnect the door lock rods from the door handle. Now, use a Torx socket to remove the 3 bolts holding the door latch assembly on from the outside of the door. Now remove the door handle itself. If just has slots holding it to the door. Slide it towards the rear of the door and it will come loose. You will also need to remove one 10mm bolt for the lower window guide and move the window guide out of the way (be careful with it!) to give you adequate room to slide the latch assembly out of the door. Remove the latch assembly from the door.



Keeping the window guide out of the way, slide the new door latch assembly in place. I found it easiest to get it roughly into position, connect the lock rods, and then install the bolts. The new door latch assembly has one more bolt than the old assembly, it goes a few inches above the window guide bolt you removed earlier. The other 3 Torx bolts are the same. Route the cables the same as the original assembly and reinstall the door handle. Again, the procedure is identical on the passenger side.

Now time for the fun part! Electrical! It's actually not as complicated as it seems, just tedious. Look at all the connector views for your truck and study the diagram. For reg cabs, you will need accessory power (windows/mirrors), constant power (locks), and ground. For the power aspect, I ran a dedicated FUSED wire from the battery coming into the cab. I used a relay for the accessory wire to run the windows.

Before the relay but AFTER the fuse I tapped a wire to serve as the constant power for the locks. The relay I setup uses the BCM accessory voltage wire as a turn on signal so whenever the truck is in run or accessory my windows and mirrors will work. Do NOT just tap into some random circuit without knowing what you are doing. Add your own circuit or add a new one into the fuse box. You can run both off of one fuse or have separate fuses for each function.

Now for the fun part. It is best to map out your connections beforehand rather than doing it as you go. I had the connector views mapped out to where each would go and then tracked from the back of the connector to where the door harness ended. GM is pretty straightforward, giving you circuit numbers, pinouts, and wire colors for everything. Match up where each wire needs to go from each connector.

For pulling wires in/out of the door you can get a little extra room by unbolting the door limiter. From there you can pull the wiring grommets going into the doors and body. On the body of the truck there are two tabs holding the plastic connector in place (top and bottom). If you pull on the connector some you can get a screwdriver in place to push the tabs in and pull the connector out (a little) from the body. This will make snaking in the wires easier, as you can do it in stages. Once I figured out how long the wires needed to be, I snaked them one at a time. First up in the body up to the hole, then out the hole, through the connector, through the accordion tube, and finally into the door.

For the master power window to work, you only need power and ground. For the passenger side to work, you need to connect ALL the circuits together between the doors (including the lockout circuit and its own power/ground). For the door locks to work they ALL need to be hooked up as they chain from one to the other instead of each getting their own signal.

If you are going to tie in to the BCM, one wire from the driver side and one wire from the passenger side T's off to the BCM. They share the same circuit number. You will need two spare pins, they are the same as the ECM/TCM pins or of course from another BCM. I had spares laying around from my swap ...

Here is a link to the connector views

Here is an example of wire harness connections for the driver door to the passenger door for a regular cab.



By the time you get halfway done, you should have some gigantic mess like this:



Keep at it! It will start coming together soon. Now, if you are soldering all the connections (which you better be), be 100% sure you are happy with the wire routing before you make the connection! Otherwise, if you want to be snazzy you could get a 10 or 12 or 15 way inline connector to make life a little easier.

After you make all the door to door connections don't freak out if there are extra wires! Keep in mind that the reg cab door harness still has the wires for the crew cab windows, just backprobe them one at a time and verify what they are for. Keep in mind tying into the BCM isn't necessary but it is the cleanest and/or factory way to do the install. Just take your time and make sure your connections are solid.

Pretty soon you'll end up with something like this!

 

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Been considering this for a while so I really appreciate this write up. Probably get started on it this summer, till then just collecting info.
If connecting to the BCM is there any programing required or will it just work?
If connecting to the BCM is there any risk of triggering passlock?
If connecting to the BCM what would I need to make a stock key fob work?

I have a standard cab 2005 z85
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Been considering this for a while so I really appreciate this write up. Probably get started on it this summer, till then just collecting info.
If connecting to the BCM is there any programing required or will it just work?
If connecting to the BCM is there any risk of triggering passlock?
If connecting to the BCM what would I need to make a stock key fob work?

I have a standard cab 2005 z85
No programming required. If you want to add keyless, you need to program. For just windows and locks, no programming required.

No risk of triggering any ignition problems, but I would recommend disconnecting the battery before doing any of this.

To make the stock key fob work, you will need 4 things.
1) New BCM (stock BCM on base models physically does not have the antenna). I attempted several times to use a new 2005 BCM (with antenna) with no luck. I ended up using a 2006 BCM (same pin-out but different part number) and it worked.
2) Antenna wire for keyless. Runs from BCM up along the passenger side a-pillar
3) Tech2. No way for the end user to program key fobs. Anyone wanting to make a trip to South Florida, and I've got you covered.
4) Key fobs
 

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Thank you very much, this is a huge wealth of information that gives me courage that it can be done.

Considering I would need to replace the BCM in order to use a factory power locks, I think I will go with aftermarket power actuators for the locks.

For the power windows, I was a little worried about running the amperage through the switches themselves but it appears the switches have relays built in. I assumed the switches were simple NO switches and that I would need to provide a bank of relays to make it all work. It is such a relief to find that is not the case.

Looking at the schematic it appears the only function of the BCM is to toggle the relay at the fuse box to give or deny power to the windows so I should be fine finding an alternative "signal" wire for that function.
This is exciting, It really is much more simple than I imagined. :th_woot::drinking28:
 

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Thank you very much, this is a huge wealth of information that gives me courage that it can be done.

Considering I would need to replace the BCM in order to use a factory power locks, I think I will go with aftermarket power actuators for the locks.

For the power windows, I was a little worried about running the amperage through the switches themselves but it appears the switches have relays built in. I assumed the switches were simple NO switches and that I would need to provide a bank of relays to make it all work. It is such a relief to find that is not the case.

Looking at the schematic it appears the only function of the BCM is to toggle the relay at the fuse box to give or deny power to the windows so I should be fine finding an alternative "signal" wire for that function.
This is exciting, It really is much more simple than I imagined. :th_woot::drinking28:
The relay that is controlled by the BCM is the RAP relay. It provides power to three circuits, the sunroof, the wipers/washers and the windows. In your truck, there should be power to the fuse position #42 (PwrWind-30amp) in the fuse box, with the key on. You should be able to pick up power for the windows there, or for a cleaner installation, connect at pin A of fuse panel connector C4.
 

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Sweet thanks, went looking for the C4 and found schematics that are easier to read, thanks.
I am thinking there currently isnt a circuit coming from C4 of fuse 42. How hard is it to add a circuit so its clean, from under the fuse box?
 

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Probably the "neatest" and most work intensive way, would be to access the connector and wire it using the correct terminal. The terminal part number is 12110127. You could also purchase the connector with pigtails using part number 88987862 and about $50.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you very much, this is a huge wealth of information that gives me courage that it can be done.

Considering I would need to replace the BCM in order to use a factory power locks, I think I will go with aftermarket power actuators for the locks.

For the power windows, I was a little worried about running the amperage through the switches themselves but it appears the switches have relays built in. I assumed the switches were simple NO switches and that I would need to provide a bank of relays to make it all work. It is such a relief to find that is not the case.

Looking at the schematic it appears the only function of the BCM is to toggle the relay at the fuse box to give or deny power to the windows so I should be fine finding an alternative "signal" wire for that function.
This is exciting, It really is much more simple than I imagined. :th_woot::drinking28:
You mis-understand me, or maybe I wasn't clear.

You do NOT need to replace the BCM to add power windows and locks.

You DO need to replace the BCM to add KEYLESS entry (because the base model BCM physically does not have a location for the antenna)
 

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You were clear fuzzkill, I wasnt.:shrug: Iv got it figured out. I don't want to spend the 1-$200 though to replace my BCM when Iv seen aftermarket actuators that come with key fob and receiver for like $40. Plus my BCM works perfectly so I am hesitant to replace it just for keyless entry.

Right now I am thinking I can get the aftermarket actuator with fob to use when I am outside the truck. Then, with a little creativity and luck, splice in the door switches to the aftermarket actuator so I can use them while inside the truck. I think it can be done. My only hesitation is that it wouldn't be a very clean Install.

I am not going to get started on this though until summer so I still have time.

Thanks cart7881, I am really just trying to avoid the "add-a-fuse" look. After doing some reading I think I am going to avoid messing with the stock fuse box. I am leaning toward adding an external fuse block. With an external block I can run my amp power into it as well as power for the windows and any future electrical needs.

Something like this

With a spot for a relay I could have my own RAP relay:th_woot:
 

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Great right up!

Any 2005 and up truck wouldn't need to replace the BCM, they all have the keyless hardware, just needs programming and antenna. (05-06 didn't have an antenna?)

I can pull they keyless info from any 04-08 existing BCM, and program it to another BCM, so if you get a matched transmitter and BCM. From the wrecker I can play with it.

Also you need to worry about millage, and options programmed. I can transfer over millage. For options you need to find a year and Vin with the options you need.

If you get a BCM or Vin that has traction control, and you don't, you will see error messages on the DIC.

There are four gens of BCMs;
2004 non AUO (keyless entry, internal antenna), 2004 AUO (keyless entry) Gen 1
2005-2006 All BCMs seem to have (coaxial plug sticking up through case) Gen 2
2007-2008 Coaxial plug and antenna, up to vent. TPMS,battery light module Gen 3
2009-2012 Coaxial antenna, up to vent. Chip key,TPMS,battery light module Gen 4

I can't program millage or SDM air bag s/n or keyless on 2009-2012 BCMs, GM changed the electronics, allot of the info serial number millage etc, is all stored in the Chipped key now.

2004-2006 SDM serial should be plug and play (with a 2004-2006 SDM), 2007-2008 SDM serial should be plug and play (with 2007-2008 SDM). I can likely make a 2007-2008 BCM backwards compatible with the 2009-2012 SDM serial number.

I can input newer or older SDM serial numbers. Running a 2007 and later BCM, with a 07 and newer cluster will require a battery light module (generator module)
 

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No programming required. If you want to add keyless, you need to program. For just windows and locks, no programming required.

No risk of triggering any ignition problems, but I would recommend disconnecting the battery before doing any of this.

To make the stock key fob work, you will need 4 things.
1) New BCM (stock BCM on base models physically does not have the antenna). I attempted several times to use a new 2005 BCM (with antenna) with no luck. I ended up using a 2006 BCM (same pin-out but different part number) and it worked.
2) Antenna wire for keyless. Runs from BCM up along the passenger side a-pillar
3) Tech2. No way for the end user to program key fobs. Anyone wanting to make a trip to South Florida, and I've got you covered.
4) Key fobs
All the 2005-2006 BCMs I came across had the antenna? And I only see one part number on rock auto? I thought they could all be programed with keyless entry? The 05-06 BCM should be exactly the same?
 

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I'm thinking about doing this all factory swap...
One of my concerns is, I'm unable to find a wrecked 355 in my area with electric windows still installed. I was wanting to be the one who removed everything so that way I would have a better understanding of where everything is laid out...

I am able to find pictures and information about the wiring and connectors behind the door panel
But what I'm having a hard time finding out, is where the wiring goes from the door jam and into the dash...
Where does the drivers side and passengers side wiring harnesses plug in under the dash?? I must know!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

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Hello, Nice article! It has given me the confidence to try this. I have acquired most of the parts I need to do this but I have run into one issue that I am NOT sure how to resolve. I'll be replacing connectors and door wire harness but there is a relay in the driver's door and I don't know what it is for. I'm afraid it might be for the airbag system so I don't want to disrupt it. I'm attaching a picture. Does anyone know what this is for?

2011 Canyon - driver door - Imgur
 

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I found a schematic and it looks like this relay is to signal the BCM when driver door is unlocked. I suppose it is to turn on interior lights.
 

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That is the Door Unlock Relay (UE1 without ZQ6)

UE1= Onstar
ZQ6= Power convenience Package

For trucks that have Onstar, but not the power door locks, GM installed a power door lock in the driver's door so that it could be unlocked remotely by Onstar.

If you are replacing/installing an OEM harness, from the door hinge area aft, you can just remove that relay and associated wiring. The new wire harness should have the same connector for the lock actuator.
 

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Thanks for the confirmation cart7881. That description matches what I saw on the print. Does this mean I can use the existing driver door latch with a power lock system?
 

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sorry - I didn't see the rest of your post before I replied. That's good news! saves me some money and that was the final item I needed.
 

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Maybe you have already checked, but the real issue will be whether on not the wiring for the windows/locks/mirrors is in place at the door hinges. The lower connector, at the hinge for the driver's door, has the circuit for that relay in question. There is an Orange wire for Bat+ and a White wire going to the BCM. If you connect an OEM harness that has the circuits for the windows/locks/mirrors, that connector will route the Orange and White wires to the door switch module. Hope that's not too confusing.
 

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Hi Cart7881, I meant to thank you for your reply. You were right on. I did replace the door harness' and those wires worked directly for door power, ground and signal from BCM to 'unlock'. I had to run 1 wire to the fuse box for relay power and about 8 wires from driver side to passenger side. I had spare pins that I got from connectors at the salvage yard so I was able to add them to the existing connector blocks. It worked out well and door locks/windows are fully functional now. I also pulled a wire back to the BCM for door 'Lock'. I would like to add remote lock/unlock and have started to look into that. Since my Canyon was equipped with Onstar, I believe my BCM has an antenna (not sure if this is the same antenna used for keyless entry) but it looks like I can purchase remotes and program them myself. Do you know if I will have to reprogram the BCM to enable this capability?
 
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