[gettingspeedy]

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A 355nation How To presented by
gettingspeedy

Project Name
Upper Ball Joint Flip

Project Description
Remounting Upper Ball Joint to add lift and remove bind after t-bar crank/lift

Skill Level
Moderate

Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2004
Engine: 3.5L
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed
Grinder with grinding cut off wheels
19mm socket
15mm socket
21mm socket
Bench vice
Various drill bits up to 5/16"


Project Time
2-3 hours depending on skill level

Project Cost
Effort, 4"x4"x.25" plate steel

Begin by taking off your wheel and tire to gain access to suspension

Unbolt ball joint from steering knuckle and UCA (21mm and 15mm)
Press out studs by slipping large socket over head of ball joint stud and using a vice or press to push the stud out

After the studs are removed trace out the spacer on cardboard and transfer to your steel

Clamp the plate to the underside of the UCA to do final grinding and shaping to match factory mounting surface

Mark middle hole and drill out
Slide stud back in to ball joint reverse of factory, and mount to UCA, mark final two holes and drill

Mount ball joint to UCA

Re-connect ball joint to steering knuckle

Remount wheel and tire, double check all torques
End result

Impressions: WAY exceeded my expectations, not only did I get about 1"-1.25" lift, it corrected my suspension geometry and my truck rides like it did pre-t-bar crank. My CV's and tie rods are noticeably more horizontal, and have gotten about 1.5"-2" more down travel due to more UCA movement. Before the flip my alignment was about maxed out to correct a negative camber issue from t-bar crank. I actually have a bit of positive camber right now, until I get it aligned.

thinking the ride quality was all in my head, I asked my dad to take a ride with me to get dinner, I didn’t tell him I had done anything to my truck, before we got a mile down the road he asked what I had done to the truck, that it rode much smoother. I believe that I was binding the upper ball joint. Also when hitting bumps I could feel the UCA hitting the frame and had moments of unloaded front end weight, now it is much more controlled over rough roads at speed and generally rides smoother. this is all an added benefit, I was just looking to get rid of the 2" of rake I had, now I have about .25"-.5", which I can live with

 

[ssgjurista]

Nice experiment! Are you gonna ask a certain suspension company to make these? :naughty:

 

[radojim]

wow. i never heard of this before. is this something you just thought of? id love to correct the problems which you just mentioned. im digging it.

are you on stock keys or aftermarket?

 

[gettingspeedy]

stock keys


and yes, i am going to approach larry about this and possiablly a spacer plate for the bottom bj too, even with 4wd there is room for a .5" spacer

im very stoked that my rake is almost gone, it got to the point i wasnt driving my truck because i didnt like the stance

its amazing how usefull my headlights are now, with the rake the ground right infront of my truck was bright, now the ROAD is lit?!!??!? so good!

 

[radojim]

im assuming the factory bolts were long enough after the plate was installed?

 

[blkrado]

Awesome idea and made your truck look ten times better bro. That's the only thing I didn't like about your truck at SESM was how bad of a rake it had. Nice solution bro

 

[gettingspeedy]

yes, if more lift is desired and you were to use any thicker than .25" plate, i would get new bolts, with the .25" plate however, the factory bolts are plenty long enough.

ball joint flips are common with isuzu troopers and rodeo's

its amazing how many parts and ideas for isuzu's are amking their way on to my truck (thanks again scott!)

 

[JestEr]

im liking this... now should we look into getting longer bolts? should the top be reinforced? meaning was the ball joint like a reinforcement for the top and it should be plated for strength? and if i read right i could do this to my 05 offroad and have no negative affects... cause i have a shit ton of scrap steel around and some spare time lol... would i need an alignment afterwards?

 

[gettingspeedy]

Awesome idea and made your truck look ten times better bro. That's the only thing I didn't like about your truck at SESM was how bad of a rake it had. Nice solution bro

thanks, yea after the pics from SESM came out i realized how bad it actually was. like i said, i havent been driving it latley because i got sick of looking at it, and had been running ideas around in my head for months. eventually all the ifs shit will get cut out, but for now, it was a cheap (free) solution.

 

[JestEr]

my bad apparently my question was answered as i asked it...

 

[gettingspeedy]

im liking this... now should we look into getting longer bolts? should the top be reinforced? meaning was the ball joint like a reinforcement for the top and it should be plated for strength? and if i read right i could do this to my 05 offroad and have no negative affects... cause i have a shit ton of scrap steel around and some spare time lol... would i need an alignment afterwards?

as for longer bolts, read about 3 posts up lol

i dont see why any reinforcement would be needed, it mounts to the same exact location in the same way, just under instead of over. the upper bj is the follower, the lower is the load carrier, so as far as integurity, i dont see a need to reinforce.

you would need an alignment, i have about 2 degrees of positive camber now, but it should be a normal alignment fix.

get after it!:thumbup:

 

[ssgjurista]

and yes, i am going to approach larry about this and possiablly a spacer plate for the bottom bj too, even with 4wd there is room for a .5" spacer

If a .25" spacer gives you 1 - 1.25" of lift, then a .50" spacer should theoretically give you 2" +. So one spacer on top and one on the bottom could provide 3" or more.

You may have started the latest revolution for lifting!

 

[radojim]

im pumped about this. nice job arron!!

 

[JestEr]

If a .25" spacer gives you 1 - 1.25" of lift, then a .50" spacer should theoretically give you 2" +. So one spacer on top and one on the bottom could provide 3" or more.

You may have started the latest revolution for lifting!

so i could get 4" out of this and a mild TB crank with a .5" spacer?

 

[gettingspeedy]

well, a .25" spacer, and moving the mounting location on the ball joint.

consider the thickness of the control arm and ball joint mounting tabs in there too

there is about .75" to 1" material including the movement from over to under

next will be the lower mount, it might be a week or so before i get to that however

and jim....2 a's 1 r lmao

 

[gettingspeedy]

so i could get 4" out of this and a mild TB crank with a .5" spacer?

umm, maybe a .5" spacer on the bottom and top combined with the flip AND the t-bar crank, im sure that you would be almost to 4" doesnt a t-bar crank on stock suspension net about 2" anyways? you could get another 2" out of both spacers

let me know how it pans out

i expect results!

 

[radojim]

should the lower be done at the same time? this reisling is starting to kick my ass.

 

[gettingspeedy]

if you want to

not needed at the same time tho, honestly, you dont have to do both if you dont want to, its just another option

 

[radojim]

and jim....2 a's 1 r lmao

sorry dude, my last post should explain

 

[JestEr]

let me start my new job first and than once i have money for an alignment and a AAL to level it out. maybe ill get up to the fab shop and get the spacers and a shackle made up..... damn lay offs