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Big Brother Owner
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Disclaimer
The community here at 355nation.net urges you to please use caution and seek professional assistance when performing modifications to your vehicle. Before attempting any modification it is advised that you refer to your Colorado or Canyon service manual or contact a certified mechanic as not all GMT355 trucks are the same. The staff and the associated members are in no way responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm inflicted to your vehicle or yourself which may result in attempting these modifications. The posts and content presented on this site reflect in no way the views of 355nation.net or it’s ownership.




A 355nation (CCP) presented by
opie652003

Project Name
How-to: Install Front Shocks

Project Description
How to replace your front shocks with new ones

Skill Level
Easy

Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2005
Engine: 3.5L
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed
Jack, jack stands or vehicle lift
Your trucks lug nut wrench
18mm long socket
Socket Wrench
6 inch extension rod for socket
18mm wrench (open or closed)
16mm wrench (open or closed) or long socket
14mm wrench (open or closed) or long socket
Standard Vice Grips
Needle Nose Pliers
Flat Head Screw Driver

Project Time
1 hour or less

Project Cost
Cost of shocks of your choice

Rancho (5300) 5000 series were used in this application



Step 1: Remove your front tire

Step 2: Remove the 4 plastic clips holding in the engine bay covers in the wheel wells with the flat head screw driver and remove the cover.



Once removed you will have better access to the upper shock bolt.

Step 3: With the 16mm wrench or socket, remove the nut from the shock stem.

*NOTE* I had to use WD40 to loosen the nut from the threads due to rust build up.



*If the nut and shock stem both start to rotate when trying to loosen, grip the top half of the threads with the vice grips and continue to loosen nut. Once you get to the vice grips with the nut, grip under the nut with needle nose pliers. Release the vice grips and continue loosening the nut until it comes off.*

Step 4: Remove washer and bushing from the upper mount.

Step 5: With the socket wrench, extension and 18mm socket, place on the "bolt side" of the lower shock mount. Take your 18mm wrench and place it on the "nut side of the bolt" and loosen nut until removed.



Step 6: Push the bolt out of the lower shock mount, use the screw driver that you might have handy and push the bolt the rest of the way out of the shock and mount. The shock will then fall out of place, if not a slight tug on the shock will remove it.

*The shock is not under pressure like a spring or coil, so do not worry about it shooting out at you*

This is what you are left with after these first steps





Step 7: Pull out your new shock and parts that are given with it. Take notice the difference between the new and old shock.



Step 8: You should have gotten with your new shocks 2 new bushings and 2 con caved washers with each. 1st place a washer (bowl side up), next, the new bushing (nipple side up) on the stem of the new shock.

*For easier application, fully extend the new shock*

Step 9: Place the stem of the shock with the new bushings into the upper mount 1st and then the shock tube into the lower mount.

Step 10: Take the other bushing (nipple side down) and the other washer (bowl side down) and place them on the stem, bushing first. Then with the nut supplied, tighten down the upper mount until tight (No specifications were given for how tight the nut had to be) With the Rancho 5000 Series Shock, the new nut was 14mm.

Just make sure the nipple end of the bushings go into the holes of the upper mount which the stem protrudes through.

Step 11: With the nut and bolt taken out of the lower mount, place them back into the mount with the new shock and tighten down with your 18mm socket and wrench. Again, no specifications were given for how tight the nut and bolt had to be.

You should now be at this point with your install:



Before the next step, make sure all nuts and bolts are tight.

Step 12: You can now put the engine bay cover back on and secure with the 4 plastic clips that you took out originally.



Final Step: Put your front tire back on and enjoy the new ride :high5::bang:

*These steps can be used for both sides*
 
P

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Thank you, i've been searching and searching for this exact write up, excellent work!
 

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As far as tightening the nut on the top of the shock...It should be tight enough so that the rubber washer squeezes out to meet the outside diameter of the metal washer..no more, no less. You can feel it with your fingers as you tighten it. Its a good idea to check this the next day after ya drive it a bit...Its easy to access without removing the tire.
 

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Premium Member
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345 Posts
is this only for z85, and z71s? my zq8 has coilover shocks right?
 

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Premium Member
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345 Posts
i guess its the same, except i need to disassemble mine and but the back together. i will take picks, if you want to add my steps to complete this how to, i will post them up.
 

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Just did mine today and wanted to add that the vice grips are not necessary for removing the stock shocks. The top of the stud is fitted for an allen wrench (EDIT: 3/16" allen wrench). The nut on mine took a 15mm wrench to remove instead of a 16mm too.

The rears take a 21mm wrench/socket for the lower bolt and 1/2" on the uppers, which struck me as odd, but that's what I had to use if anyone is doing the rear too.

Hell of a difference between the Ranchos and the stock shocks with 103k miles on them. My truck was sagging about a 1/2" or so on the old stockers, but the new ones fixed that and it rides great with less body roll.
 

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Steel Rivers Chapter
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Just did mine today and wanted to add that the vice grips are not necessary for removing the stock shocks. The top of the stud is fitted for an allen wrench (5/32" I think). The nut on mine took a 15mm wrench to remove instead of a 16mm too.

The rears take a 21mm wrench/socket for the lower bolt and 1/2" on the uppers, which struck me as odd, but that's what I had to use if anyone is doing the rear too.

Hell of a difference between the Ranchos and the stock shocks with 103k miles on them. My truck was sagging about a 1/2" or so on the old stockers, but the new ones fixed that and it rides great with less body roll.
well this is odd.

i did mine today too and also figured out the allen key trick. i thought it was 3/16''. i took pics!!

 

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My bad haha, it was a 3/16". Couldn't remember which one I grabbed when typing earlier, so I just checked again.
 

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Big Brother Owner
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Discussion Starter #14
For some reason guys, mine did not have the allen key feature on it. That would have worked a lot better then the vice grips I had to use.

Thank you all for the different info on the front suspension setups.
 

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Big Brother Owner
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Discussion Starter #16
Great how to! Thanks for your time. Now the big question. The ride is smoother? Well worth the money?
Your welcome, I liked the ride quality, little stiffer i thought then stock. I went off road with it, so I needed it to be a little stiffer. I did this 2 years ago, I don't have the truck anymore. The truck still roams my town and I have talked to the new owner and he is enjoying it.
 

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Hello, new to this site, good explanation on installing the ranchos, i have a question, got the Procomps 3000 for my truck, only problem i see is the bottom part when you installing them in the base bracket, originals shocks are perfect fit, but the ones i got they have extra rubber , they told me i need to shave or grind the extra rubber, i was expecting perfect fit in the bracket like the originals, what about you, did you cut some rubber to make them fit in the bracket?? and sorry is there any confusion...........:shrug:

Thank you..
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bend out your brackets on the lower control arm a tad. the shocks will squeeze in there. thee mounting tabs are likely just pinched from when the old shocks were installed.
 

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Good write up it's super easy to follow. I was planing on doing this but wasn't sure if I would have to take off the control arms and shit but I guess not so it will easy as cake. I'm just trying to figure out which type of shock I want to go with now...
 

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You can also skip the part of removing the tire and the gap guard.
 
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