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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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The community here at 355nation.net urges you to please use caution and seek professional assistance when performing modifications to your vehicle. Before attempting any modification it is advised that you refer to your Colorado or Canyon service manual or contact a certified mechanic as not all GMT355 trucks are the same. The staff and the associated members are in no way responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm inflicted to your vehicle or yourself which may result in attempting these modifications. The posts and content presented on this site reflect in no way the views of 355nation.net or it’s ownership.




A 355nation How To presented by
Greg Larkins

Project Name
How-to install JTR header on 2.9L Colorado

Project Description
Replace your crappy stock header for a nicer one

Skill Level
Easy

Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2007
Engine: 2.9L
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed
Flathead Screwdriver, 15mm deepwell socket, 10mm deepwell socket, 13mm socket, 1/2" deepwell socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, 3/8" drive 6" extension, 7/8" open end wrench, butt connectors (8), wire stripper/crimpers.

Project Time
2 Hours or Less

Project Cost
Cost of header

***NOTE*** please allow ample time for stock header to cool before attempting this install.

1.) Open hood, unplug MAF sensor from intake. Disconnect Negative battery terminal. Using a flathead screwdriver, loosen the metal clamps on the intake tube to gain access to stock header. Remove air box using 1/2" deepwell socket and extension if necessary.








2.) Remove air injection block (or solenoid) from engine block using 1/2" deepwell socket and ratchet.






3.) Disconnect upper O2 sensor from main harness under intake resonator box. Remove heat shield from stock header using 10mm deepwell socket.






4.) Lift vehicle and unbolt collector from midpipe using a 15mm deepwell socket. Save the metal collector ring for use on new header.






5.) Lower vehicle and remove header from engine using 13mm socket and extension.






6.) Remove stock header from vehicle. Remove O2 sensor from stock unit and reinstall on JTR header using 7/8" open end wrench






7.) Install new JTR header using stock 13mm manifold bolts.






8.) Extend the length of upper O2 sensor wires by approximately 12" using butt connectors. Cover with wire loom.








9.) Reinstall collector ring from stock header onto JTR header. Using new hardware, bolt collector to midpipe.








10.) Reinstall air injection block (or solenoid) onto engine block using 13mm deepwell socket. Reconnect stock intake assembly. Connect MAF sensor to intake tube. Connect negative battery post.





Sound Clip:

View My Video
 

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One question...

What are your thoughts on the header? Worth the money or just something to do if you have the spare cash under your mattress?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One question...

What are your thoughts on the header? Worth the money or just something to do if you have the spare cash under your mattress?
for me, i wanted performance and looks. this header provides both. i can feel a noticeable difference in how the truck runs, especially uphill. plus it's not that expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
what happened to the upper O2 sensor?
it got moved to the bottom. as a result (since the second O2 sensor was not installed) i threw a code. this How To will be updated and modified as soon as i get the new modified header back. i just needed to send the JTR guys all the info i had. this was a good way to do it because i'm the only one who has installed this on their truck so far. as a side note, this how to is exactly correct for anyone with a 2.8 motor.
 

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Harry...
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Nice write up Greg!

Did you mention the fact that the supplied hardware will not work?

And another thing, The o2 sensor has 2 green wires....use a sharpie or electrical tape, or both in my case to mark the wire so you dont get the 2 mixed up.
 

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Going Deaf
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i called him but couldnt really understand him.... So do they have the longtube headers available for the 5cyl. or are both short and long in the process of being made?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nice write up Greg!

Did you mention the fact that the supplied hardware will not work?

And another thing, The o2 sensor has 2 green wires....use a sharpie or electrical tape, or both in my case to mark the wire so you dont get the 2 mixed up.
7.) Install new JTR header using stock 13mm manifold bolts.
on the website they are offering the headers for 200 since no one had bought one greg how long ago did you get yours
i got mine last thursday. i ordered it on the 12th. not sure if that deal will still apply. mine is going back to them for rework and Ceramic Coating today. i will update this How To asap after installing the revised header.
 

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nice write-up! I'd ask if you have plans to dyno it, but unless you have before results its pointless. did you have a gutted stock manifold prior? bigger difference from that?
 

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Harry...
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nice write-up! I'd ask if you have plans to dyno it, but unless you have before results its pointless. did you have a gutted stock manifold prior? bigger difference from that?
I can tell you, he does NOT have a gutted cat...It's all completely stock.

One major thing I noticed was the weight difference in the 2...the stock one weighs a bunch more.....obvioulsy from the iron construction and CAT material...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
what issues did you have to get reworked because I have the same engine and I was looking into getting one
it just needs a second O2 bung and some non fowlers. the supplied bolts do not fit the bolck, you have to reuse your stock bolts, and it didn't come with bolts from the collector to the mid pipe. you must find your own. other than those small problems, it was fine.
 
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