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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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The community here at 355nation.net urges you to please use caution and seek professional assistance when performing modifications to your vehicle. Before attempting any modification it is advised that you refer to your Colorado or Canyon service manual or contact a certified mechanic as not all GMT355 trucks are the same. The staff and the associated members are in no way responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm inflicted to your vehicle or yourself which may result in attempting these modifications. The posts and content presented on this site reflect in no way the views of 355nation.net or it’s ownership.




A 355nation How To presented by
burn

Project Name
Install Power Windows

Skill Level
Easy

Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2006
Engine: 3.5L
Power windows: No
Sun Roof: No

Project Time
4 hours

Project Cost
$300

Parts List
Electric Life Window Regulators: Power Window Kit: A1 Electric Online Store
Joker Style Window Switch & Harness Kit: 2 door power window switch kit: A1 Electric Online Store



The package everything came in:



The regulators packaged:


The harness packaged:



the harness opened up on the floor. The left end of wires goes into the drivers door. The middle section hooks up under the dash, and the right end goes into the passenger door:



The regulators opened up. They also include pigtails:


Remove the door panel, remove the plastic sheet carefully.



remove the knee panel under the steering column. Tape the wire ends together and feed through the rubber tube into the driver door:


Roll the window down until you can access the bolt through the access hole. Remove the bolt.



Remove the bolt at the other end of the stock regulator.


Roll the window all the way up and tape the glass in place.



unbolt the 6 bolts holding the stock regulator in, and remove it.



Picture of the label on the new regulator.



Put the new regulator back in the same way the stock one came out. Bolt it to the door panel with the 6 supplied nuts. Also plug the pigtail into the regulator before you slide it in because the plug is a VERY tight fit and you cant get a good grip on it while its in the door.



Now you have to put the wires into the supplied the supplied ends. The ends do not come assembled because if they were it would make it impossible to feed through the rubber loom between the cab and the door.


They just slide in and click into place.



Next you have to crimp the supplied ends onto the pigtails from the regulator.



After crimping the ends onto the pigtails. These 2 wires also have to be slid into the ends.



Secure all the wires out of the way, re-attach the window to the regulator, feed the harnesses through the plastic. I had to temporarily put power to the harness to lower the regulator a bit to get access to the hole to put in the front bolt.




feed the harness along the firewall. Ground the brown wire.




the blue/red wire is for the illumination. I tapped into the backlight wire for the hazard's button.




Run the harness across to the passenger side, and repeat the above steps to install the regulator into the passenger door.


I decided that I wanted to use the stock fuse location (yellow arrow). Lift up the 4 clips securing the fuse box in place (red arrows).




I just tilted the box to gain access to underneath.



looking in a mirror - you can see the terminal we need to hook to.





I pulled to plug out and drilled out the hole.



then I removed the wire retaining clip.





and cut off the retainer for the side that we will be using so that its not in the way.




After feeding the power wire through the firewall and the stock loom to get it to the fuse box, cut it to length and install a blade terminal on the end.



slide the wire through the plug and plug it onto the blade on the bottom of the fuse box.



slide the plug back into place.




back together.




tape the wires together, finish running the wire through the harness.





Purchase a 30A fuse that fits into the fuse block slot. Do not install until the passenger side is done.



Make a template of the switch mounting panel and tape it to the door where you want them. I was able to just barely cover up the stock crank hole (which was my goal) but I also purchased caps from A1 ( Door Panel Caps (2): A1 Electric Online Store ) just in case it wouldn't cover the hole completely and I had to install it elsewhere.




Trace the template onto the door with a marker, cut out the hole, drill mounting holes, mount the panel.




Install the switches.




Driver door installed.




Passenger door installed.




The stock crank regulators.





Now go ahead and install the fuse and make sure everything worked. My window switches turned out to be wired backwards (went down when you pressed up) so I had to take the panels back off, and swap the pin-outs.

Works great, I love having power windows now!

Any questions just post them up!
 

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Premium Member
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Well done, as usual. :thumbup::high5:
 

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Nation Advocate
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Seems pretty simple nice write up! How do you like the switches?
 
K

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Thanks sooooooo much for doing this i wanted to do this but had no clue how to. Now go make some more since yours are the BEST
 

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US Army 19yrs and ......
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Excellent job as always!

Your the man for taking on that task, I'd have a PTSD moment and break shit..lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for all the kind words guys. (*cough* go vote me TOTM ;) *cough*)

Seems pretty simple nice write up! How do you like the switches?

Surprisingly - they seem really well built. LOL. When I ordered them I was expecting to feel cheap but they are actually really durable feeling.
 

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Re: How-To: Install Power Windows

how hard would it be to use a stock power window switch and just get the door panels from a power window truck?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Re: How-To: Install Power Windows

how hard would it be to use a stock power window switch and just get the door panels from a power window truck?
The stock power window switches are 5V because they basically send a data signal to the BCM to control the windows. The switches I installed are 12V and because the harness does NOT use relays this means that the switches handle the full current of the regulators.

If you tried to use the stock switches they would for sure melt. Im planning to get some power-window door panels though and retro-fit into them the aftermarket switches.
 

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:thumbup: Good detail and writeup. I want to do this upgrade and you have made it look easy. Thanks!
 

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Member's Technical crew
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heres an idea for those that have stick and no power window
Looks good had the opportunity to see this in person, he also used some tweeters to cover the stock crank holes looked pretty trick to me BTW have a pic of the door panels?
 

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just to necropost this a bit lol, i recently installed this kit. install went well, but my windows seem to go down WAY WAY to far. it seems like there should be a stopped at the bottom somewhere. they have falled off the track already too because of the rail that has the 2 metal bend tabs on them, they seem to short. i put two metal screws in them so they dont fall off, but seems like a rig-ish way to do things...

anyone else had problems where there seems like there should be a stopper on the bottom? i am going to fabricate some metal L brackets to stop them from going down too far.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I dont have any problems with mine. Are you sure you installed them correctly?
 

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ya positive, its not like they can go in the wrong window or anything.. its the correct part number, worked with Art from A1 to troubleshoot any problems. His guess and mine is that there is some sort of factory stopper plate missing since i had manual windows originally?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
weird. I had manual windows too and never had a problem. Did you remove any of the screws that hold the track to the door?
 

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Great write up. I might try it soon
 
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