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Disclaimer
The community here at 355nation.net urges you to please use caution and seek professional assistance when performing modifications to your vehicle. Before attempting any modification it is advised that you refer to your Colorado or Canyon service manual or contact a certified mechanic as not all GMT355 trucks are the same. The staff and the associated members are in no way responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm inflicted to your vehicle or yourself which may result in attempting these modifications. The posts and content presented on this site reflect in no way the views of 355nation.net or it’s ownership.
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A 355nation How To presented by
burn
Project Name
Install Power Windows
Skill Level
Easy
Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2006
Engine: 3.5L
Power windows: No
Sun Roof: No
Project Time
4 hours
Project Cost
$300
Parts List
Electric Life Window Regulators: Power Window Kit: A1 Electric Online Store
Joker Style Window Switch & Harness Kit: 2 door power window switch kit: A1 Electric Online Store
The package everything came in:
![]()
The regulators packaged:
![]()
The harness packaged:
![]()
the harness opened up on the floor. The left end of wires goes into the drivers door. The middle section hooks up under the dash, and the right end goes into the passenger door:
![]()
The regulators opened up. They also include pigtails:
![]()
Remove the door panel, remove the plastic sheet carefully.
![]()
remove the knee panel under the steering column. Tape the wire ends together and feed through the rubber tube into the driver door:
![]()
Roll the window down until you can access the bolt through the access hole. Remove the bolt.
![]()
Remove the bolt at the other end of the stock regulator.
![]()
Roll the window all the way up and tape the glass in place.
![]()
unbolt the 6 bolts holding the stock regulator in, and remove it.
![]()
Picture of the label on the new regulator.
![]()
Put the new regulator back in the same way the stock one came out. Bolt it to the door panel with the 6 supplied nuts. Also plug the pigtail into the regulator before you slide it in because the plug is a VERY tight fit and you cant get a good grip on it while its in the door.
![]()
Now you have to put the wires into the supplied the supplied ends. The ends do not come assembled because if they were it would make it impossible to feed through the rubber loom between the cab and the door.
![]()
They just slide in and click into place.
![]()
Next you have to crimp the supplied ends onto the pigtails from the regulator.
![]()
After crimping the ends onto the pigtails. These 2 wires also have to be slid into the ends.
![]()
Secure all the wires out of the way, re-attach the window to the regulator, feed the harnesses through the plastic. I had to temporarily put power to the harness to lower the regulator a bit to get access to the hole to put in the front bolt.
![]()
feed the harness along the firewall. Ground the brown wire.
![]()
the blue/red wire is for the illumination. I tapped into the backlight wire for the hazard's button.
![]()
Run the harness across to the passenger side, and repeat the above steps to install the regulator into the passenger door.
I decided that I wanted to use the stock fuse location (yellow arrow). Lift up the 4 clips securing the fuse box in place (red arrows).
![]()
I just tilted the box to gain access to underneath.
![]()
looking in a mirror - you can see the terminal we need to hook to.
![]()
I pulled to plug out and drilled out the hole.
![]()
then I removed the wire retaining clip.
![]()
and cut off the retainer for the side that we will be using so that its not in the way.
![]()
After feeding the power wire through the firewall and the stock loom to get it to the fuse box, cut it to length and install a blade terminal on the end.
![]()
slide the wire through the plug and plug it onto the blade on the bottom of the fuse box.
![]()
slide the plug back into place.
![]()
back together.
![]()
tape the wires together, finish running the wire through the harness.
![]()
Purchase a 30A fuse that fits into the fuse block slot. Do not install until the passenger side is done.
![]()
Make a template of the switch mounting panel and tape it to the door where you want them. I was able to just barely cover up the stock crank hole (which was my goal) but I also purchased caps from A1 ( Door Panel Caps (2): A1 Electric Online Store ) just in case it wouldn't cover the hole completely and I had to install it elsewhere.
![]()
Trace the template onto the door with a marker, cut out the hole, drill mounting holes, mount the panel.
![]()
Install the switches.
![]()
Driver door installed.
![]()
Passenger door installed.
![]()
The stock crank regulators.
![]()
Now go ahead and install the fuse and make sure everything worked. My window switches turned out to be wired backwards (went down when you pressed up) so I had to take the panels back off, and swap the pin-outs.
Works great, I love having power windows now!
Any questions just post them up!
The community here at 355nation.net urges you to please use caution and seek professional assistance when performing modifications to your vehicle. Before attempting any modification it is advised that you refer to your Colorado or Canyon service manual or contact a certified mechanic as not all GMT355 trucks are the same. The staff and the associated members are in no way responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm inflicted to your vehicle or yourself which may result in attempting these modifications. The posts and content presented on this site reflect in no way the views of 355nation.net or it’s ownership.
A 355nation How To presented by
burn
Project Name
Install Power Windows
Skill Level
Easy
Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2006
Engine: 3.5L
Power windows: No
Sun Roof: No
Project Time
4 hours
Project Cost
$300
Parts List
Electric Life Window Regulators: Power Window Kit: A1 Electric Online Store
Joker Style Window Switch & Harness Kit: 2 door power window switch kit: A1 Electric Online Store
The package everything came in:
The regulators packaged:
The harness packaged:
the harness opened up on the floor. The left end of wires goes into the drivers door. The middle section hooks up under the dash, and the right end goes into the passenger door:
The regulators opened up. They also include pigtails:
Remove the door panel, remove the plastic sheet carefully.
remove the knee panel under the steering column. Tape the wire ends together and feed through the rubber tube into the driver door:
Roll the window down until you can access the bolt through the access hole. Remove the bolt.
Remove the bolt at the other end of the stock regulator.
Roll the window all the way up and tape the glass in place.
unbolt the 6 bolts holding the stock regulator in, and remove it.
Picture of the label on the new regulator.
Put the new regulator back in the same way the stock one came out. Bolt it to the door panel with the 6 supplied nuts. Also plug the pigtail into the regulator before you slide it in because the plug is a VERY tight fit and you cant get a good grip on it while its in the door.
Now you have to put the wires into the supplied the supplied ends. The ends do not come assembled because if they were it would make it impossible to feed through the rubber loom between the cab and the door.
They just slide in and click into place.
Next you have to crimp the supplied ends onto the pigtails from the regulator.
After crimping the ends onto the pigtails. These 2 wires also have to be slid into the ends.
Secure all the wires out of the way, re-attach the window to the regulator, feed the harnesses through the plastic. I had to temporarily put power to the harness to lower the regulator a bit to get access to the hole to put in the front bolt.
feed the harness along the firewall. Ground the brown wire.
the blue/red wire is for the illumination. I tapped into the backlight wire for the hazard's button.
Run the harness across to the passenger side, and repeat the above steps to install the regulator into the passenger door.
I decided that I wanted to use the stock fuse location (yellow arrow). Lift up the 4 clips securing the fuse box in place (red arrows).
I just tilted the box to gain access to underneath.
looking in a mirror - you can see the terminal we need to hook to.
I pulled to plug out and drilled out the hole.
then I removed the wire retaining clip.
and cut off the retainer for the side that we will be using so that its not in the way.
After feeding the power wire through the firewall and the stock loom to get it to the fuse box, cut it to length and install a blade terminal on the end.
slide the wire through the plug and plug it onto the blade on the bottom of the fuse box.
slide the plug back into place.
back together.
tape the wires together, finish running the wire through the harness.
Purchase a 30A fuse that fits into the fuse block slot. Do not install until the passenger side is done.
Make a template of the switch mounting panel and tape it to the door where you want them. I was able to just barely cover up the stock crank hole (which was my goal) but I also purchased caps from A1 ( Door Panel Caps (2): A1 Electric Online Store ) just in case it wouldn't cover the hole completely and I had to install it elsewhere.
Trace the template onto the door with a marker, cut out the hole, drill mounting holes, mount the panel.
Install the switches.
Driver door installed.
Passenger door installed.
The stock crank regulators.
Now go ahead and install the fuse and make sure everything worked. My window switches turned out to be wired backwards (went down when you pressed up) so I had to take the panels back off, and swap the pin-outs.
Works great, I love having power windows now!
Any questions just post them up!
*cough*)
