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A 355nation How To presented by
How To Make Your Own Halo Bulbs
Make your own bulbs for Halos in the color of your choosing.
****Check your local laws for color restrictions.****
Power windows: yes
Sun Roof: No
Soldering Iron – A temp adjustable will help prevent overheating.
Needle Nose Pliers
1/16 Drill Bit
3mm LEDs - Color of your choice - SuperBrightLED.com
Prototyping Board - RadioShack
Wire Quick Disconnects
Single Strand Wires - Used for Breadboards - RadioShack
18 Gauge wire – Red and Black
Heat Shrink Tubing
V – Volts
Ω - Ohms
8 – 10 Hours
This is the bulb that I was wanting to replace. I also made the circuit on a breadboard before making the bulbs. Used different resistors on board since didn’t have the proper ones yet. In order to determine the resistors I needed, I used an app called LED-Calc Pro. It was a free app that would calculate the resistor needed by adjusting Vin, Current, and the Voltage across the LED. You can tell it the color and number of LED's used also.
You will need to retain the grommets off the headlights. The resistor packs can be thrown away if you will be installing your own resistors. Keep as much wiring on your DRL strip as you can. Mine had 2 sets of 2 LEDs and one single LED.
Take your prototyping board and cut it with the dremel at every 3rd and 8th hole. The hole pattern on your boards will need to be 2 x 7 to make the bulbs. Wear the respirator when cutting the board because they are made with fiberglass and you don’t want to breathe that in.
Using the 1/16 drill bit enlarge four holes on one end and two at the bottom. Strip a length of the solid strand wire. You will need to make jumpers to connect two holes together. The longer you make your jumper the easier it will hold itself in the board. The Jumper will go into the top two of the four holes you drilled.
The circuit you are creating will follow the positive up one side of the board and the negative down the opposite side. On your positive side the short lead of the LED (cathode -) will go into the hole with the jumper, the long lead (anode +) will be one hole down. The second LED will have its long lead (anode +) in the side with the jumper and the short lead (cathode -) one hole down. Pull the wires as close to the board as you can and solder them to make the connection. I also soldered the top of this connection to help keep them in. After they are soldered trim the connections so they will stay in the board.
Using the phone app I determined the Resistors I needed to use. The SBL.com website told me that the LED's I chose had a forward voltage of 3.4V, and Continuous Forward Current 20mA (milliamps). On the positive side add one 270Ω resistor. On the negative side add a jumper using the solid strand wire. Solder the connections. Add a 6 inch strip of the 18 gauge Red and Black wires to the board and solder together.
The bulb should be able to be tested at this point to ensure it is working. I used the 12V battery from my cordless drill. If it is not working the either LEDs are backwards or the heat from soldering burned out the LEDs. If it is working properly cover the board with heat shrink. Cut the bottom out of the Halo grommet and install onto your new Halo bulb. I added the quick disconnect to ease replacement of bulb later. Didn’t take pic of this but can be seen in later pics. Repeat previous steps until all Halos are completed.
Feed wires through the large round grommet and install the opposite connecter to the bulb. Splice in a second wire for the second Halo with disconnects also. Solder and heat shrink this connection.
The finished product should be similar to this. The longer the wires are from your connector to the bulbs the easier it will be to install into the headlight. The short one in the pic was a pain to get in.
Feed the wires into the headlight from the DRL side to the opposite Halo. Once the wires are ran through the headlight you can install your new bulbs into the Halo locations. Seal with the grommets and the Halos are done.
I also rewired my DRL strip. For this I spliced a resistor into the positive side of the circuit. For the two LED I added a 270Ω resistor and the single LED uses a 470Ω resistor. Cover with heat shrink and splice into positive and negative wires.
Connect your positive and negative wires however you wish from this point. Test to insure it’s all working properly. Reinstall head lights and you should be done. I connected mine to a switch in the cab so I can turn them on and off anytime in case I travel to a state where I can’t have the green.
4/3/15 UPDATE: Its been a year since I made the How-To for my Halo bulbs and want to let everyone know that they are still functioning perfectly. I leave them on all night while I'm at work and have them on when I'm showing off the truck. So far have not had to remake another set and will make another update when I have to.