How to: Replace Frame (Shackle) and Leaf Spring Bushings

25382 Views 28 Replies 9 Participants Last post by C4NADO, Jun 7, 2020

asalinasz39

Discussion Starter · Jan 18, 2016 (Edited)

Disclaimer
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A 355nation How To presented by
asalinasz39

Project Name
How To replace frame and rear leaf spring bushings.

Project Description
Some vehicles may have severe rust and seized shackle/leaf spring bolts; this will allow you to avoid the stress of hammering old bolts out and restore bushings to factory performance as well as possibly gain rear lift if longer shackles are installed.

Skill Level
Moderate

Project Vehicle
Make: GMC
Model: Canyon
Year: 2006
Engine: 3.5L
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No

Tools

Ratchet & Socket
Air hammer & Chisels
Penetrating Oil
Jack Stands
Lift Jack
Hammer
Large Socket (such as 35mm) to cover over bushing
Grinder with Metal Cut-off Wheel
Pry Bar

Project Time
4 hour or less

Project Cost

Frame Bushing - ACDelco 45G15022 from Rock Auto paid with shipping $20
Leaf Spring Eye-Bushing - RB172 from truckspring.com paid with shipping $24
Bolts - 9/16-12 x 5 grade 8, washers(8) and nuts (8) from McCoys Hardware store approximately $18
Lift Shackles from eBay $55

Jack up the truck and place on jack stands set on frame in front of your rear tires.
Remove tail lights and disconnect wires, follow the wires to underneath the bed and there will be tapped on to the bed, remove them from there so they don't hold the bed back when your about to lift it off. Remove the spare tire with tools provided under your passenger seat or rear if extended cab. Unbolt with a hex key the gas tank funnel as well.
Remove all 6 bolts under the bed; 4 of them will be found near the bumper, and the other 2 (one on each side) will be located closer to the front portion of the bed. Have a buddy assist you to pick up and remove the bed.
Remove the nuts of top and bottom shackle bolts, and using a grinder with a metal cut off wheel, cut as close as you can to the edge removing most of the extra sticking out. Make sure to be wearing some eye protective gear.
Given that I had new lift shackles, I used a crow bar to push out the old shackle. As you can see in the pic, I even bend out the outer portion of the shackle which released some tension and then the bolts began to come out with plenty of Kroil (penetrating oil); I was able to get all of it out including the inner sleeve of the old bushings...and that is how seized your stock bolts can be.
After removing the old shackles with bolts; these is what you will have...top bushing was practically gone. You can notice also that the rubber is gone; I used a concrete drill bit with my dewalt drill and made 4 holes around the rubber then began to circle around until the rubber came loose and was able to poke it out with a flat screwdriver.
Time to remove the old bushings...frame bushing all it took was a flat screwdriver and small hammer taps then reached in there with my fingers and it was out.

Bottom was not so rusted so here is where the air hammer comes in very handy. Hammer on the edges to unbend the lips and then the bushing will begin to loosen... you will have to hammer from the other side as well and that will do the job.
Time to insert the new bushings. Make sure to clean out rust. I sprayed it with the Kroil and cleaned it out with some paper towels then re-sprayed it. However some elbow grease would be best. With a 35mm socket covering the bushing at just the right size; tap on the bushing moderately firm but not super hard so it is inserted straight and you will see the bushing going right in. The frame bushing slides in real smoothly...the leaf spring bushing will take several taps more but you will see the progress as it will also slide in. Some have rented a bushing installation tool kit or made their own. In my case the socket and hammer were just enough.

A tool a friend on Facebook shared with me just in case you may need to build your own here is an idea.
Unbolt the shocks from the bottom to allow the differential to drop more and therefore the leaf springs will be able to align with new longer shackle.
I bolted the shackle from the top first then used the jack to raise the leaf springs a bit and then bolt the bottom to the leaf springs. Picture shows the jack on the drum; now that I see that I should of been more careful and placed it on the differential under the leaf springs instead but I wanted to finish.
You can follow through on the right side and install shackle as well, then re-assemble the truck by placing bed back on, bolt on and re-install light connections, tail lights and gas tank funnel to bed.
Finally you can step back and admire your work.

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21 - 29 of 29 Posts

MindFury

· #21 · May 27, 2016

I tried to use the best combination trying to center the shackles. The drivers side would only allow me to get 2 in due to the leaf being twisted. I used 5/8" two with two diff thicknesses and M14 washers. I got the M14 because they were a diff thickness than the other two.

Drivers side

Pass side. This went together nicely with 4 M14 washers as shims.

Close up of drivers side.

Definitely not a quick and easy job if there are high miles/ rust on the vehicle.

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asalinasz39

Discussion Starter · #22 · May 27, 2016

Well they are in and thats good! By the way is it me or did you insert the leaf spring bushing on the passenger side from inside to out?

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MindFury

· #23 · May 27, 2016

asalinasz39 said:
Well they are in and thats good! By the way is it me or did you insert the leaf spring bushing on the passenger side from inside to out?

Yes that is correct. That's how the old one was installed.

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asalinasz39

Discussion Starter · #24 · May 27, 2016 (Edited)

MindFury said:
Yes that is correct. That's how the old one was installed.

Wooow that is interesting; both of my leaf spring bushings were installed from outside to in. From factory I presume

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Danggo99

· #25 · Oct 5, 2016

Whats the result of bad leaf spring bushings? My truck bed hops a lot up and down when i look in the side mirrors. I know a little is normal with a truck. I mean it moves like 1-3 inches. All box bolts are tight. I'm thinking maybe the bushings are bad? I keep forgetting to look at them at school when i got my truck on a lift. And the box hop causes it to feel like through the whole truck and there is no abnormal tire wear. Shocks are good. Any help will be helpful.

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asalinasz39

Discussion Starter · #26 · Oct 7, 2016

Danggo99 said:
Whats the result of bad leaf spring bushings? My truck bed hops a lot up and down when i look in the side mirrors. I know a little is normal with a truck. I mean it moves like 1-3 inches. All box bolts are tight. I'm thinking maybe the bushings are bad? I keep forgetting to look at them at school when i got my truck on a lift. And the box hop causes it to feel like through the whole truck and there is no abnormal tire wear. Shocks are good. Any help will be helpful.

Take a look at those bushings...they may be causing the excessive rear bed shake. I didn't notice a great difference after replacing mine but have read somewhere they do play a main factor in suspension ride.

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Rex Kramer

· #27 · Oct 8, 2016

Danggo99 said:
Whats the result of bad leaf spring bushings? My truck bed hops a lot up and down when i look in the side mirrors. I know a little is normal with a truck. I mean it moves like 1-3 inches. All box bolts are tight. I'm thinking maybe the bushings are bad? I keep forgetting to look at them at school when i got my truck on a lift. And the box hop causes it to feel like through the whole truck and there is no abnormal tire wear. Shocks are good. Any help will be helpful.

Wheel could be out of balance. I had no idea until I rotated my backs to the front that I had one so out of balance it shook the wheel like crazy that I thought the wheel was about to shoot off.

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Danggo99

· #28 · Oct 8, 2016

I thought it was out of balance. I've had belle tire rotate them like 3 times now. Still in the back but I don't know how they rotated them. Currently the 2 better tires are up front. And 2 more worn are in the back. I'll probably keep them that way for winter. I much rather be able to steer... I'll take a look at the bushings this week when I'm swapping the rear diff fluid. Most likely stock with 205000 miles on them. Next year before I go to college I'll probably do a 2-3" suspension lift and maybe 32" tires.

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C4NADO

· #29 · Jun 7, 2020

This was great. I didnt expect taking theses off to be such a challenge.

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