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What state do you live in? I live in ky so no emissions test I have to worry about but in some you can fail up to 2 emission test but still pass

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I even tried Google with the evap not ready sorry man wish I had an answer for you good luck Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

The Evap monitor was the hardest for me to get to come ready. Here in Connecticut, ALL monitors must report ready or you fail. Don't know about your state.... but.....

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html

How to Perform a Basic Drive Cycle

I think one of these links is what I used as a guide a couple of times to get all to come ready after I had pulled the batter for a couple of different events, the latest being this past summer when the PCM was replaced. I had no codes, only the Evap monitor not ready a few days after replacing the PCM. It still took more than a month including a mid summer trip from CT to FLA for it to finally go ready.
 

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When I fill-up my truck, gas spits out and makes quite a mess. I had no CELs, so I blew out the two lines in the wheel well with compressed air. I still had the same problem. Today I changed out the Evap Canister/Solenoid with AC Delco 214-2324 and Chevrolet P/N 19257603 Jumper Wiring Harness. About 4 years I changed out the canister with AC Delco 214-2147 due to the CEL. Needless to say, I'm a little frustrated and not sure what I should try next. Any suggestions? KEYWORDS: gas spit - gas spitting - gas splash - gas splashing.
 

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Bringing this thread back to life. I recently found this when searching Amazon for the canister solenoid. OEM ACDelco Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid 214-2324 25932569 + 19257603 Adapter $19.95 with free shipping. This is for both the canister solenoid and the adapter harness.

Removal and install was a breeze with the spare tire out of the way. I couldn't save the existing hose, so I use a 5/8 heater hose and some clamps to replace it. I used heater hose because I couldn't find any fuel line in that diameter. It should be okay since it's only fuel vapor and not actual fuel running through the hose. So far, so good. There's still a few other issues that need to be fixed (Ignition switch & 180 degree thermostat). Those will be taken care of in the weeks to come.

I just wanted to thank everyone that donated their time and effort to help others on this site. I've learned so much about this truck from all of the helpful threads on here. :cheers:

:salute:
 

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The cost in the previous post is wrong for the two items being $19.99, it is $49.99. In fact if you buy the two items separately the cost is less, $37.39.
 

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Here is some help with part #'s along with pictures for those in need. This applies to 04-10 year trucks.

1. The location of vapor canister and solenoid.
2. These are GM parts not specific to the Colorado, but will work if you reuse some parts from the original setup. You will need to reuse the bracket , nylon pipe, and slip connector on the vapor canister side. Note : the barbs on the end of vent valve on the left make removal somewhat difficult. You may have to use a rubber vapor hose instead, which will work just as well. The valve on the right will require an adapter because the O.E.M. wire harness has an oval male end , the one on the left plugs right in. The bracket will be in rough shape , but useable.
3. This is the setup using the adapter , rubber vapor hose , clamps , and valve that has the square plug in.
4. The part the GM web sites and dealers sell as the factory replacement. It will still require the purchase of the adapter.
 

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You have two choices. Either #20907779 , which is the complete factory replacement for your 11 , or just the vent solenoid #214-2324 and swap over or make the hose between the vapor canister and the vent solenoid and reuse the bracket. First choice is the easier but more costly , second is cheaper but more work.
 

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The 2011 vent valve has the square connector, so yes, the 214-2324 will be plug and play with the OEM harness. No jumper needed. GM started using the square connector in either 2010 or 2011, not sure which. I have a 2011.
 

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I wish I had an answer for you man..I changed mine in the rear and now I'm getting same code again. I think it's the front one they talked about on the forum this time though. As soon as it gets out of the 5 degree temps in Kentucky I will post something after I changed it good luck

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