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The community here at 355nation.net urges you to please use caution and seek professional assistance when performing modifications to your vehicle. Before attempting any modification it is advised that you refer to your Colorado or Canyon service manual or contact a certified mechanic as not all GMT355 trucks are the same. The staff and the associated members are in no way responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm inflicted to your vehicle or yourself which may result in attempting these modifications. The posts and content presented on this site reflect in no way the views of 355nation.net or it’s ownership.




A 355nation How To presented by
USAFquez

Project Name
Zone Leveling Kit Install

Project Description
This Zone Leveling Kit will raise the front of your 2015 Colorado/Canyon by approximately 1.25", evening out the factory rake.

Skill Level
Moderate

Project Vehicle
Make: GMC
Model: Canyon
Year: 2015
Engine: V6
Trim: SLE
Crew Cab: No
Long Bed: No

Tools Needed
Jack, Jack stands, breaker bar, various sockets

Parts Needed
Zone Offroad 1.25" leveling kit.
Mfg: Zone Offroad # C1121


Project Time
3 hours

Project Cost
$49.95 + shipping

  1. Before starting, park your truck on a level, smooth surface. My driveway in on a slight grade, but it's all I have to work with. The instructions tell you to go to all four corners and measure from the center of the wheel to the fender lip. Since I'm a badass, I measured from the ground and only the front instead.

    Front right


    Front left

  2. Make sure your truck in park, E-brake is engaged, and wheel chocks are wedge in the front and rear of a rear tire. Then raise the front of the truck as high as you can using a jack. The jack point I used is located under the engine and ties the frame rails together. After the truck is raised, lower the truck onto jack stands. I placed my jackstand on the frame rails about where the transmission support bar is at. Make sure your tires are at least four inches off the ground after you lower your truck onto the stands. That clearance will lower once the kit is installed and you want to make sure you have room to put your tires back on.

  3. Remove the front wheels and get familiar to where everything is.

  4. Locate the brake line bracket just rear of each strut. There's one bolt holding it on. Remove that bolt. The instruction call for you to cut the zip tie holding the ABS sensor wire but I found that it's not necessary.

  5. Locate the there nuts holding the strut to the upper strut mount. The two closest to you need to be loosened with a regular wrench. I wasn't able to fit a ratchet in there. You'll need to fold the liner up a little, too.

  6. The nut closest to the engine is easiest to get to through the engine bay, but you'll need a 1.5 foot extension. The first picture is of the driver side. I have the socket already on the bold. The second picture is of the passenger side.

  7. Next, you'll need to compress the suspension by placing the jack under the spindle and raising the jack until the truck just barely lifts off the jack stand of the side you're working on.
  8. Locate the upper ball joint and loosen that bolt.

  9. Now lower the jack and let the ball joint separate. The spindle is going to want to lean over. Allow it to do so but be careful not to stretch the brake line or sensor cable.

  10. Next, remove the lower strut mounting bolt. Once removed, the strut should drop about 2-3 inches. Enough room to get the Zone spacer onto the top of the strut.


  11. I would say to reverse the process but it's a little tricky. Wiggle the strut back into position with the spacer in place. Use the new hardware and tighten the 3 nuts on the upper strut. Replace the original lower strut bolt. So here's the tricky part. You need to place your jack on the lower control arm and lift. Exactly as shown in this picture.
  12. But because of the lack of leverage, it will only lift so much. You need to use a breaker bar or some other bar to leverage the upper control arm down in order to reconnect the upper ball joint.

  13. The rest is the same, just in reverse. But the last thing you should do it re-aim your headlights. After your truck is on the ground, move it back and forth a few yards to allow the truck suspension to settle. Locate the headlight adjusters and turn them clockwise no more than 1/4 turn. I'll write another "how-to" on aiming headlights soon. Enjoy.


    After Front right


    After Front Left


    Before


    After
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here's my alignment spec sheet after my 1.25" Zone leveling kit install. I just finished driving 1400 mi from DC to OKC. I got just over 21 mpg on the drive. I also had about 400 lbs of presents in the bed, me, my wife, and about 100 lbs of dogs. I'm hoping I'll get better mpgs with the wheels aligned now.
 

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Must be nice to work on such a clean suspension. Nice job.
 

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Sweet I'll have my leaving kit on Monday!!! Nice write up!!!
 

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Got mine done.

 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Did you have to remove the sway bar link bolts? I didn't see you mention it, but between step #7 and #9 it looks like the bolt was removed in your pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did you have to remove the sway bar link bolts? I didn't see you mention it, but between step #7 and #9 it looks like the bolt was removed in your pictures.
I completely forgot about that. But yes, I had to disconnect them to allow the lower control arm to drop completely down. It was simple to do though.
 
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