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Idle drop and stall at operating temp only. Fuel trim question.

6K views 25 replies 6 participants last post by  quietseas4john 
I'd also inspect the pcv tube and the brake booster hose for leaks or failure, and verify that all your QD electrical connections on engine related devices are good, as are your grounds. You never know what they may have knocked loose or what might have a corroded connection that was exposed from disassembly/reassembly.

Plus, those are free.
 
Unless debris from a failing cat is blocking your exhaust, you shouldn't be stalling, and if it was the cause, you shouldn't just be able to start right back up.

Also, we need to change our upstream o2 sensors every 80-100k miles just for gas mileage sake, but I don't see that helping.

Is there any possibility it could be a bad electrical connection to your fuel pump/failing fuel pump? I can't see how that would only happen at operating temps, but anything is possible. Also maybe check your PCM connections for loose wires? If it's got a bad connection it may be interrupting signals which operate the engine (really a stretch on that one).

At this point it may be something as simple as a bad ground or positive terminal connection interrupting power flow as the connector warms and expands, or it could be as bad as a damaged PCM.

Not enough personal experience to say either way.

Sorry
 
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