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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Nation,

I have a 2006 4cyl, 5 speed 4x4 with around 100k miles on it. Since earlier this year, I have had a rare, but annoying electrical/ignition issue. I happened twice back in February, twice two weeks ago, and once today. I will get into the truck in the morning and try to start it, it acts like the battery is completely dead. When it first happened in Feb, thats what I thought the problem was. I came back out a few hours later to jump it and it fired right up. It happened once more, then nothing until a few weeks ago and this morning. If it happens, I can remove the key and put it back in and it will fire right up. The weird thing to me is that the entire truck acts like the battery has died or has been pulled. The radio resets, and in the case of this morning, it reset a check engine light that I had for a small evap leak. I was thinking bad ignition cyl, but would that cause a complete power loss to everything in the truck? The only other thing I can think that it may be is that I had a major water leak coming from the wiring grommet next to the brake master on the driver's side. I ran an amp wire through there and forgot to silicone it up. Could water have gotten into the wiring and corroded something? That doesnt make sense to me since if you jack around with the key in the cyl it will fire right up.

Any ideas?

D
 

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Have you checked your battery and alternator/charging-voltage?

One thing we've learned about these trucks is they can go pretty goofy if the battery/system voltage is even slightly low.
 

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Sounds to me like the exact same issue I had a year ago.


Here is how to troubleshoot it.


Put a DMM to the starter soleniod wire. Its the smallest wire going to the starter. It's purple on my truck.

Attempt to start truck. If you get no crank but get +12V on the wire then your starter is bad. If you DO NOT get +12V then your crank relay or ignition switch / passlock module ( they are one in the same ) is bad.

You can replace just the ignition switch / passlock module without having to do the whole key cylinder module piece itself. But then you will have to have it reprogrammed or tune VATS out.
 

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If it is passlock, from what I've seen, heard, read it would be cheaper and with dozens of other benefits from a PCM tune. Just shitcan the passlock.
 

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Passlock ALWAYS allows it to crank right?

OP says it acts as if battery is dead, meaning no crank. That would indicate it is not Passlock??

I'd question the grounding blocks too. OP, have you learned where the grounding blocks are located on the fenders? They often get corroded and cause electrical issues. However, I personally do not know if a poor ground will result in the symptom you experience.
 

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Passlock ALWAYS allows it to crank right?

OP says it acts as if battery is dead, meaning no crank. That would indicate it is not Passlock??
It will only crank if its a automatic, but his is a 5 speed just like mine and it will not turn over
 

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Passlock ALWAYS allows it to crank right?

OP says it acts as if battery is dead, meaning no crank. That would indicate it is not Passlock??

I'd question the grounding blocks too. OP, have you learned where the grounding blocks are located on the fenders? They often get corroded and cause electrical issues. However, I personally do not know if a poor ground will result in the symptom you experience.
My passlock got me again just this morning. Turn the key and it's stone cold dead, not even a click from the starter and that red passlock light on the dash is blinking. Wait 10 minutes, blinking light is out, fires right up. Been a couple of months since the last time it happened to me......never know when it'll happen again but it always re-starts fine after 10 minutes. 1st time it happened it cost me $150 for a new battery.......obviously it wasn't the battery.

Thank you GM.:shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
First off, thank you all for the replies. As for this being a passlock issue, I am not sure. I have had passlock act up on me in the past, and the dash will light up and the truck will try to turn over (it does turn over with the 5 spd with passlock active), it just wont fire. So I sit there for the 10 minutes looking like a weirdo in the parking lot waiting for passlock to stop being an ass. This is different. The entire truck doesnt get any power. The int lights do not light up, the dash does not light up, radio does not come on. For all intents and purposes, the truck does not have a battery in it. Remove key, try again, and hey! we have power! Next time it happens, I am not going to remove the key, but try to wiggle it around or something to see if it will fire up. It just seems weird that it looses all electrical power, and it is cured by removing/reinserting the key.

For what it is worth, I did replace the battery last year. This weekend I will test the voltage, and I will try the suggestion of testing the voltage at the starter.

Again, thank you all for the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Passlock ALWAYS allows it to crank right?

OP says it acts as if battery is dead, meaning no crank. That would indicate it is not Passlock??

I'd question the grounding blocks too. OP, have you learned where the grounding blocks are located on the fenders? They often get corroded and cause electrical issues. However, I personally do not know if a poor ground will result in the symptom you experience.
Yea, I found those when I had the blower fan resistor issue. I have cleaned them both a year ago, and they still look good. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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My truck has a low voltage shutdown. Looks like an ohm loop on the neg cable by the battery. Its never been "activated" to my knowledge. I would assume it would kill the power to everything. Don't know exactly how the system works, just know its there.
 

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Passlock ALWAYS allows it to crank right?

OP says it acts as if battery is dead, meaning no crank. That would indicate it is not Passlock??

I'd question the grounding blocks too. OP, have you learned where the grounding blocks are located on the fenders? They often get corroded and cause electrical issues. However, I personally do not know if a poor ground will result in the symptom you experience.


True if your only issue is Passlock and the resistance measurement being sent to the BCM.

False is you have a combination of the entire Passlock / Ignition module being bad or your crank relay is bad. In addition to getting the security light, you will also have a no crank condition if one of these two is bad as well. Like what happened to me.

View my thread here. It will tell you everything you need to know to get it troubleshot and fixed. In particular look at the info I have posted for the relays. I'll even copy and paste it for you here.

http://www.355nation.net/forum/engines-performance-tech-questions/80633-truck-not-cranking-starting-resolved-pg-4-a.html


Relay 61

86 = Ground ( battery GND / Chassis )

85 = 12V from run / start via BCM B6/C2..................( if this isn't there when turning key then your switch is more likely the problem )

30 = 12V Battery ( test at Pos Terminal )

87 = 12V Output to Park Neutral switch which then goes to the PCM start switch signal and relay #62 coil side pin 86



Relay #62


86 = 12V from relay 61 pin 87

85= Starter enable from PCM 48/C1 ( ground line to coil of relay )

30 = 12V Battery

87 = 12V Output to Starter Solenoid ( Purple wire )




one more thing to add. remove your battery, the battery box, unbolt the ground cable from the fender. take a dremel to the painted surface underneath the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks again to everyone for the replies. Atxjax, I will definitely look into your thread when I tear into it, hopefully this weekend. Last weekend I helped my friend tear the transmission out of his volvo, and swap in a new one that SHOULD have fit as is. It didn't. Bell housing, shifter linkage and support, and driveshaft flange all had to be swapped, but I digress...

I should be able to look at it this weekend. Ill update everyone if I get it figured out.

Cheers,

D
 

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Hey did you ever figure out what the issue was? Seems I'm having the same exact issue!!
 

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Hey did you ever figure out what the issue was? Seems I'm having the same exact issue!!
Hey Justin, I am sorry for the late reply. I did figure out what the issue was. Its a bit of a good news/bad news situation. The good news is it was a VERY easy fix. The bad news is it was a VERY easy fix. I take a bit of pride in being the go to guy for car questions and help friends out when they need auto things fixed. I am embarrassed to even say what it was. Anyway, enough foreplay. The positive battery terminal had worked its way sorta loose. I went out a week or so ago and the truck had absolutely no electrical power at all. No jacking around with the key would fix it. Pop the hood, first thing I go to is the battery. Negative is on solid. Go to the positive and it was on...tightish. I could wiggle it with some force, but it would drag around the terminal. Tightened it down, fired it up, and punched myself in the neck. I hope your fix is as easy as mine.

D
 

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i have the same issue here guys, but the problem is a loose starter relay on the fuse box, any recommendations besides getting a new fuse box, i live in Mexico and they are not easy or cheap to find.
 

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i have the same issue here guys, but the problem is a loose starter relay on the fuse box, any recommendations besides getting a new fuse box, i live in Mexico and they are not easy or cheap to find.
Loose as in the socket is loose so the relay doesn't sit securely in the socket to make good contact? How did that happen?

If that were the case, short of replacing the fuse box you could install a single separate relay near the fuse box to substitute for it. You would have to splice in the wires to the circuit where the original relay is, but that's not a big deal if you know how to make good secure splices... there are only four wires.
 

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Loose as in the socket is loose so the relay doesn't sit securely in the socket to make good contact? How did that happen?

If that were the case, short of replacing the fuse box you could install a single separate relay near the fuse box to substitute for it. You would have to splice in the wires to the circuit where the original relay is, but that's not a big deal if you know how to make good secure splices... there are only four wires.
thanks, it doesnt sit securely on the socket, i just bought this truck about 1 month ago and this thing with the relay just atarted giving trouble about a week ago, the relay that's been acting up it's the run relay.

That's what i am looking to do, install a sepaeate relay, just a quick question i've seen on ebay some connectors with the relay included, the relay it's not the same part number but it's a 4 pin relay with a resistor, same amperage and voltage, would they work?
 

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