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Discussion Starter #1
I have rear drum brakes and im not completely sure on how to do the brake on our trucks also the wheel cylinder went out any how toos on how to do the brakes and to make sure they are blead correctly?? please :ugh:
 

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They are actually pretty simple. One of the simpler drum brake systems I've worked on. I think I've seen a how-to once but it's pretty dated. Most of the info would apply. There is a tool available that I'd suggest renting from your local parts store. It's meant to hold the brake assembly freeing your hands up for reconnecting parts. Other than the tool I mentioned above, these brakes do not require any specialty brake tools.

One difficult part is reconnecting the parking brake cable...but can be accomplished with a little thought.

Take pictures as you go if possible, but always leave the other side in tact so you have a visual reference. The two sides are a mirror image of each other.

Brake dust is harmful to inhale. An old paint brush is good for brushing off the parts during disassemble, but don't get carried away leaving a cloud of dust in your face. Other options would be a spray bottle of water to spray the assembly so most of the dust is rinsed away.

A Chilton or Haynes manual may be helpful as a reference by your side as you're doing the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea I mean my dad was a ase certified master mechanic for a long ass time but he owns a trucking company now and he is out on a business meeting in florida and I cant get ahold of him till tonight and I need to know how to bleed these brakes properly cause im pretty sure there is no fluid in the lines at all...
 

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Here is the thread you need : http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-chassis-suspension/2194-how-change-your-rear-shoes.html

Once you have the huge horse shoe spring out you can move the brake shoes out of the way to access the wheel cylinder which its the gold cylinder piece on the top of the backing plate.

To remove the wheel cylinder

- disconnect the brake line from the back side.......I believe thats a 10mm
- then to remove the wheel cylinder its 2 "E8" inverted Torx ; I just verified that now.
- now the wheel cylinder will drop right out.

Now to reassemble everything is the reverse order
- finally bleed the brake system, RR-LR-RF-LF and done.
- in the bleeding process you'll be able to verify there are no leaks.

BAM, there you have it @05babyrado
 

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I might suggest a pressure bleeder if you have an empty system.

A pressure bleeder is a pressurized tank connected to the master cylinder. Then following the wheel sequence listed above, open one bleeder at at time and the pressure will push the fluid through. You're going to be there a very long time filling the entire system one brake push at a time.
You also have to check the pressure canister from time to time and refill as necessary.

The pressure bleeder is a bit spendy, but if time is worth money, it will be money well spent.

In addition to that, the master cylinder may need to be bled independently.

Can I ask what makes you think the system is low? And if it is indeed low, what caused that?
 

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US Army 19yrs and ......
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I might suggest a pressure bleeder if you have an empty system.

A pressure bleeder is a pressurized tank connected to the master cylinder. Then following the wheel sequence listed above, open one bleeder at at time and the pressure will push the fluid through. You're going to be there a very long time filling the entire system one brake push at a time.
You also have to check the pressure canister from time to time and refill as necessary.

The pressure bleeder is a bit spendy, but if time is worth money, it will be money well spent.

In addition to that, the master cylinder may need to be bled independently.

Can I ask what makes you think the system is low? And if it is indeed low, what caused that?

One like this:



I bought one several years ago and its been great for brake jobs.........it makes it a one man job. If you and when you can catch them on sale from $35-60 USD

Pulling the wheel cylinder......you shouldn't loose to much DOT3, but this is all a perfect time to flush the system out and get fresh DOT3 in the system.

You do not bleed the master cylinder separately.......the system is done as a whole.
 

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Is it no longer necessary to bench bleed a master cylinder?

I've only done that once, when I had to replace the MC. Did I do it unnecessarily?
I thought that in this case if he is truly 'empty' that may be a requirement?
 

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If you flush the system, your using new fresh DOT3 to push out the nasty old stuff, so the system is never truly dry.

If it goes dry..........you did something really wrong
 

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Yeah. that makes sense. I only suggested a full brake bleed with the pressure bleeder because OP has concerns his lines are empty.

If it's not empty then of course no need at all. Not sure how the system would be dry - but......
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well i got the brakes done and the master cylinder changed. the reason i say its either really low or empty was cause the fluid light came on in my dash and the reservoir looked empty... i tryed bleeding it last night and came up that the brake line the fitting either has a crack or its cross threaded which i hope not. cause when i pumped the brakes up brake fluid came spraying out of the lines. i really appreciate the help guys!!
 
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