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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finally have the turbo in my possession. Pictures later today after I get off work.

Goals/Specs for my build:

Holset HE341 Turbo
Ebay intercooler
AEM Water/Meth Injection
xspower wastegate
xspower bov (may add a bypass valve)
mbc
91 oct
8-12 psi
300whp
14.5s quarter mile at the Albuquerque Dragway
a very reliable tune
and have lots of fun!

This project is going to take a very long time but I hope to do it in less than 2 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Well kids, here she is!!







I got a really good deal on it: I paid as much for a welder, turbo, bov/bov tube, and wastegate as I would have for just the turbo alone if it was in good working condition. All this turbo needs is a rebuild. There is very little shaft play (and no axial play). It's pretty dirty but I'll pretty it up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I'm gonna do the same that LLV_MA5 is did with his and cut the tab for the internal wastegate as I am going to be going external and everything needs to be clocked right. I think I can mount it close to where I want it and it should fit, although I'm going to need to modify my airbox. I'm trying to keep turbo noises to a minimum to attract less attention, and and go for more of a stock look.

I also didn't realize how large wastegates are! The bov tube is perfect. It is the right diameter and the bend is correct with the way I want it. The only turbo noise that I know I'll get is that bov noise, which I don't might I guess, but if it becomes overly annoying I may switch to a bypass valve. I thought that bov noise was so stupid the first time I heard it at the dragstrip years ago because it was really loud on a slow car.

Does anyone know if turbos help reduce drone? I don't have bad drone at all, but a little more quiet in cab would be nice on long trips. I know it should quiet down things a little. Doesn't a turbo cancel out most of the high frequency sound?

Anyway, my coworker forgot to bring the welder yesterday at work so I'm at work now waiting for him to come in soon and give it to me, so hopefully he remembered today. Its my day off so I don't want to stick around unless I get some overtime, which probably wont happen.
 

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Looks good! I just noticed that you have a jtr header installed. Have you considered just making an up-pipe off the header to mount the turbo? Emaxxer did that on his build and it looks like it worked really well. The flow would be second to none. There's a reason turbo manifolds in racecars look like a long tube header with a turbo flange on the end!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've thought about that but if I ever need to go back to non-turbo I want to have the header. I did seriously consider that though.

I was taking the turbo apart today to clean the compressor and turbine housing and I should have known to not use snap ring pliers from harbor freight. I was able to get it off, but it wont go back on.

I guess that's okay since I still need to rebuild it. The pliers were bending every time I had the snap ring almost small enough to put back in. I'll probably have to buy a quality one.

I think I can use some pipe I got from a friend. If the exhaust port is less that 1 5/8" then I'll use it cause that is the size of the pipe and I wont have to buy pipe. Is there any reason you went with 1 3/4"? @LLV.MA5
 

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I think I'm gonna do the same that LLV_MA5 is did with his and cut the tab for the internal wastegate as I am going to be going external and everything needs to be clocked right. I think I can mount it close to where I want it and it should fit, although I'm going to need to modify my airbox. I'm trying to keep turbo noises to a minimum to attract less attention, and and go for more of a stock look.

I also didn't realize how large wastegates are! The bov tube is perfect. It is the right diameter and the bend is correct with the way I want it. The only turbo noise that I know I'll get is that bov noise, which I don't might I guess, but if it becomes overly annoying I may switch to a bypass valve. I thought that bov noise was so stupid the first time I heard it at the dragstrip years ago because it was really loud on a slow car.

Does anyone know if turbos help reduce drone? I don't have bad drone at all, but a little more quiet in cab would be nice on long trips. I know it should quiet down things a little. Doesn't a turbo cancel out most of the high frequency sound?

Anyway, my coworker forgot to bring the welder yesterday at work so I'm at work now waiting for him to come in soon and give it to me, so hopefully he remembered today. Its my day off so I don't want to stick around unless I get some overtime, which probably wont happen.
:lol: i like the whole sleeper idea you have. You and me are completely different. Im planning some thing more loud and abnoxious. Loud exhaust and external wastegate dumped out the hood
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I know I'll not get the best performance out of it with with 2.5" exhaust but I don't care. That's something that's way down the road. For now 2.5" is fine. I eventually will go to 3".

One thing that I think would be cool to do is make something like a caterham and put a boosted 3.7 I5 in it. Loud, fast, fun to drive and just over the top. haha.

Eventually I want to get a cervinis hood but that's about all I want to do for the body.
 

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I think I can use some pipe I got from a friend. If the exhaust port is less that 1 5/8" then I'll use it cause that is the size of the pipe and I wont have to buy pipe. Is there any reason you went with 1 3/4"? @LLV.MA5
No real reason. I've been using 1 5/8 for everything since then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Removing the AIR solenoid?
No I'm keeping it to be closer to stock since it is part of the emissions system.. I believe you disabled it in my tune a while back, at least that's what the receipt form said.

I have a question: Where should I locate the stock 1st o2 sensor (not wideband)? From what I've read, the downpipe would be best because the positive pressure and heat will kill it if its in the turbo manifold plus if the o2 sensor broke it would destroy the turbine wheel, but other sources say that pre-turbo is fine. How does location of the o2 effect closed loop operation?
 

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In theory you want it closer to the head so that it heats up quicker. All O2s are now heated, so I don't think that matters any more.
I think they should go in the downpipe just past the turbo. This way all cylinders contribute to the reading. It would be hard to get a decent reading in a log style manifold.
I've never heard that they can't take positive pressure (all exhaust is positive pressure to some extent).
 
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