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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Small update.
20181231_143310 by Jaymes English, on Flickr
I installed the meth injection and welded the internal wastegate flapper shut. It runs at 9psi currently. I haven't been able to do much testing because of the snow.

I think I'm going to need that H3 clutch sooner rather than later. It will slip in 4th gear.
This thing is a sleeper. You can't tell it has a turbo until it starts to spool.
 

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do you use an external wastegate or do you think that the holeset is maxed out at 9 psi ?

thats some nice piping, i wish i had gone with inboost maf along with atmos blow off, i cant get mine to sound like a turbo. even with 3.5 straigh pipe it just sound like a normal car. i wonder if there is some mod we can do to make it sound louder, on my diesel it basicaly wisle at idle
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 · (Edited)
I really need to test what rpm boost starts. I haven't had a chance because it's been wet here. My guess is it starts to come on somewhere under 2000rpm, but it really depends on what gear I am in. It will make boost at a low rpm going up a hill in 5th.

Plus it doesn't help that 1st and 2nd gear just spin and have wheel hop. I think I am going to try and get a hop shock to help with the wheel hop. Then maybe I can actually floor it in 1st.

I also will probably order an I5 flywheel and H3 clutch this week.
 

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Beautiful build man.
Looks like the way GM should have done it.

This may be a stupid question, but...

In a 355, is there any advantage to a turbo I-4 install versus an I-5 ?

There's an advantage in space to work with, enough to make a difference, right?

That is, with what you know now and given your choice of either, which would you pick for a turbo build?
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Thank you Rick. I tried to make it a clean install.

I don't really know if space is an advantage with a turbo in an i4 vs i5. With the I5 you need an extra primary, but since the engine is longer you could probably make more room for the downpipe or even do an up pipe off of a header like Emaxxer.

I think it would be fun to try an I5 because it's something different. If I had the choice I probably would go for an I5 because it would make more power.
 

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to be honest i think all i4 owner find that engine kinda slow, a i5 would see near a 80-100 hp bonus over a i4, as well as beeing the exact same engine.

have you moded the valve cover jaymes ? after a few mile i ended up with a lot of blowby causing some crankshaft seal leak, i dont know if thats because of the high millage engine but i think we could use bigger vent
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
to be honest i think all i4 owner find that engine kinda slow, a i5 would see near a 80-100 hp bonus over a i4, as well as beeing the exact same engine.

have you moded the valve cover jaymes ? after a few mile i ended up with a lot of blowby causing some crankshaft seal leak, i dont know if thats because of the high millage engine but i think we could use bigger vent
I have not modded the valve cover. I have two 1/2'' hoses going from the valve cover to a catch can and then one exit from that catch can down to the frame. I don't think my crankshaft seal is leaking. It wouldn't hurt going to a bigger vent. That's not a bad idea actually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
For anyone wanting the 11'' H3 clutch. LLV.MA5 gave me the part number and I ordered just the disk since you cannot get the 24230633 pressure plate that includes the 11'' disk. At least I couldn't because its apparently discontinued even though some sites list it for sale.

So the actual disk is 24230637. It runs about $100 shipped. The Sachs SC70394 Clutch Cover (which is the pressure plate) should fit the disk. I ordered a LUK clutch kit (LUK 04241) and it came with Sachs parts, which included this pressure plate.

All in all I spent about 100 more than I would have if I was able to get the H3 pressure plate. I think it will be worth the extra 9/16'' in diameter compared to what came in the LUK kit.
Today all the bolts should come in and I'll post up the specs if they fit tomorrow. The pressure plate bolts to flywheel are the ones I'm concerned about. Limesquat posted a while back that Ford Racing flywheel bolts fit so I ordered those and did some research and hopefully found some ARP pressure plate bolts that are inexpensive.

I also made a hop shock like the ones found on the S-10. I need to clean up the mount and try a stiffer damper that just came in. I wasn't able to even floor it in first and it would spin and hop with no damper. It's better now but I think a stiffer damper will help even more.

20190122_171046 by Jaymes English, on Flickr
 

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Some good info. I think I used the h3 south bend clutch kit on mine and it worked great! Mine was the 2+ but I dont think they sell it anymore.


Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Here are the specs on bolts-

Flywheel: M10x1x23.7 (Ford racing M-6379-B are M10x1x26.6)
Pressure Plate: M8x1.25x15 (ARP-103-2201 are M8x1.25x16)

They are a lot cheaper than paying gm around 120 dollars for 14 bolts. I got everything from summit for ~$32, including shipping. If you don't want the ford flywheel ones they do make ARP ones but they are more than twice the cost and closer to what the GM ones cost.

Looks like I'll be attempting to install the clutch this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
New clutch is in. The pedal feels lighter than the 115,000 mile stock one. It also feels like it has better grab and smoother engagement. One thing I think I'll be doing is putting in new fluid more often. The stock fluid had never been changed and looked nasty.

20190125_174822 by Jaymes English, on Flickr
20190125_202327 by Jaymes English, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Some vids. I'll have to make one actually going through the gears. This thing creeps from 9psi to 11psi with a 7.25 psi spring. I think once I turn up the boost above 11 it wont creep.. at least I hope not. I also did a test launch using my scangauge and it says I cut a 1.8s 60'. We will see how close that really is when I go to the track in march.

 
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