Ok guys...i just got my 3 "keys , 3" shackles, and 1.5-2.5" AAL from procomp. shackles and AAL my buddy knows how to do it...but how the hell do you install the keys...anyone got a how to video of diagram.. pls help..thanks:th_woot:
Keys and shackles & AAL....NOW WHAT?? lol
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There is one bolt to tension the torsion bar. Remove the bolt which will relieve the tension on the bar. Remove key. Install new key. Reinstall bolt.
You have to do the work while laying on your back, the bolt faces upward. The head of the bolt is like 1 1/16" or the metric equivalent. My 1 1/16 6-point works fine.
Adjust height of front to 24" from center of the hub to the fender lip (when the truck is under it's own weight on a level surface). Take it for a short drive. Adjust as necessary. Scheduler your alignment for sometime in the next few days.
With a 3" shackle (if they are really 3") and an AAL installation, the truck will be way higher in the back (if you aren't already aware).
Different product, but identical procedure for the key installation. Reference step #7 to begin the key portion.
http://www.355nation.net/forum/susp...-maxx-leveling-lift-lowering-kit-4x4-z71.html
The picture is an example of how to measure from hub to fender.
You have to do the work while laying on your back, the bolt faces upward. The head of the bolt is like 1 1/16" or the metric equivalent. My 1 1/16 6-point works fine.
Adjust height of front to 24" from center of the hub to the fender lip (when the truck is under it's own weight on a level surface). Take it for a short drive. Adjust as necessary. Scheduler your alignment for sometime in the next few days.
With a 3" shackle (if they are really 3") and an AAL installation, the truck will be way higher in the back (if you aren't already aware).
Different product, but identical procedure for the key installation. Reference step #7 to begin the key portion.
http://www.355nation.net/forum/susp...-maxx-leveling-lift-lowering-kit-4x4-z71.html
The picture is an example of how to measure from hub to fender.
Something else you should consider. Assuming you are going for maximum front lift you should lower your front differential. You can use washers if you'd like. It is advised to not stack up spacers more than 3/4" in thickness. There are 4 bolts, 2 per side. By lowering your differential, you relieve the binding you are putting on your front half shafts.
The bolts are 14mm, therefore you need 14mm washers.
I do not remember if discussed in your other threads.....you may consider flipping your upper ball joint on the UCA. This will help get you back into alignment spec when it goes to the shop. Unfortunately there isn't a way to know if you need the flip until the shop says they can't get you in spec. Should you elect to flip the ball joint in the future, another alignment will be necessary.
The bolts are 14mm, therefore you need 14mm washers.
I do not remember if discussed in your other threads.....you may consider flipping your upper ball joint on the UCA. This will help get you back into alignment spec when it goes to the shop. Unfortunately there isn't a way to know if you need the flip until the shop says they can't get you in spec. Should you elect to flip the ball joint in the future, another alignment will be necessary.
thanks 08canyon...ive seen how to flip the ball joint...but how do i lower my front diferential with washers...is there a how to post around this forum...also one more question...if i Adjust height of front to 24" from center of the hub to the fender lip..is that the stock height or is that the 3 inches lifted..thanks :mjb:
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Also with that much rear lift you want to keep an eye on the rear drive shaft potentially making contact with the cross member that is located under the gas tank when the rear suspension is at full droop.
For lowering the front diff you need to locate the 4 bolts that mount the diff to the frame. Loosen all of them enough to get washers (or spacers) in. Remove one bolt insert washers and tighten... repeat for the other bolts. Be aware that 3/4 of an inch thick of washers is the maximum for the stock bolts.
Also with that much rear lift you are going to have a lot of rake (front lower than rear)
For lowering the front diff you need to locate the 4 bolts that mount the diff to the frame. Loosen all of them enough to get washers (or spacers) in. Remove one bolt insert washers and tighten... repeat for the other bolts. Be aware that 3/4 of an inch thick of washers is the maximum for the stock bolts.
Also with that much rear lift you are going to have a lot of rake (front lower than rear)
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Here is a pic of one of the 3/4 inch spacers I installed when I had a torsion bar lift. (Piece of aluminum with 2 X's on it).
You can stack washers and use them for spacers like 08Canyon said or purchase them from suspension Maxx. 3/4 inch is as thick as you can go with the stock front diff mounting bolts.
You can stack washers and use them for spacers like 08Canyon said or purchase them from suspension Maxx. 3/4 inch is as thick as you can go with the stock front diff mounting bolts.
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Its pretty easy. All u need is a floor jack with a block of wood to support the diff as u remove the bolts. Only lower the diff enough to slide the washers or spacers between the frame and the diff. If you r using washers it helps to either tape or glue them together so they stay aligned and u can thread the bolt through.
Also I put lock tite on the bolt threads so they wouldn't loosen.
one more thing...my leaf springs got that w shape...i was gonna get them repaired and straightened out then add the AAL....so should i not repair the leaf springs and add the AAL...or repair the leaf springs with the AAL..thanks
:th_woot:
:th_woot:
LOL...one more thing..... the bolts your talking about where i am gonna put the 3/4 washers or spacers..if stock bolts give me maximum 3/4 ...can i add a longer bolt to add maybe 1" with the washer or spacer??? i dont know if im explaining myself correctly.
:th_woot:
:th_woot:
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406 Posts
Yes u can use longer bolts so u can stack more washers for more drop. I believe the spacer kits come with longer bolts.
The thing with torsion bars and keys, there is no 'set amount'. I specified 24" because that is a safe number. You can squeeze about 1/2" more out of it (maybe). I can't go higher on mine without doing damage. The keys and torsion bars have more adjustment, however. If I lift more, I will start banging parts together that are not meant to touch. Key designers have a reindexed hexagon that twists the torsion bar beyond what the factory keys will allow. In general, on a good torsion bar, it should net around 3", that's why it is advertised as a 3" lift key. Individual results vary.
The higher you lift the front, the less likely it is you will get it to align within factory specs. The ride could be so hard you can't control the vehicle very well. You will bind the UCA/ball joint which may lead to cracks in the UCA. etc.
I sit almost exactly at 24" (total coincidence) and if I am going through a curve that is bumpy, I do not have control of the vehicle. The suspension can not cycle quickly enough and the front end 'skips' across the lane somewhat. In the direction of body roll.
When I did my spacers (the same ones Greg has) I removed the bolts and took them to a wire wheel to clean them off. Then used a few drop of Blue Loctite. Just to take up that little bit of space in the threads. I can still remove them that way, if needed. This is not necessary as there is no thread locking agent on the stock bolts.
I may have confused you with my previous comment. You will not gain lift from lowering the differential - if you are lifting to allowable tolerance, the differential should be lowered to prevent half shaft/CV damage. The way you wrote it, it made it sound like you want to lower differential to get max lift. Sorry if I confused you.
The higher you lift the front, the less likely it is you will get it to align within factory specs. The ride could be so hard you can't control the vehicle very well. You will bind the UCA/ball joint which may lead to cracks in the UCA. etc.
I sit almost exactly at 24" (total coincidence) and if I am going through a curve that is bumpy, I do not have control of the vehicle. The suspension can not cycle quickly enough and the front end 'skips' across the lane somewhat. In the direction of body roll.
When I did my spacers (the same ones Greg has) I removed the bolts and took them to a wire wheel to clean them off. Then used a few drop of Blue Loctite. Just to take up that little bit of space in the threads. I can still remove them that way, if needed. This is not necessary as there is no thread locking agent on the stock bolts.
I may have confused you with my previous comment. You will not gain lift from lowering the differential - if you are lifting to allowable tolerance, the differential should be lowered to prevent half shaft/CV damage. The way you wrote it, it made it sound like you want to lower differential to get max lift. Sorry if I confused you.
You are explaining yourself correctly. If you deal with SuspensionMaxx, they sell a spacer kit that includes 1.25" spacers and longer bolts. I do not know the thread pitch of the bolts and am not sure if you can just get them from your local home center. I think only from a fastener supply, like Fastenall for example.
I doubt you will need to lower it more than the standard 3/4" though. The idea is that when you are all done, the half shafts (axles) should be near horizontal. If they are still significantly angled downward towards the wheels then perhaps you can lower it more. Horizontal allows the CV joint to articulate through the range of motion it was designed for.
If you are considering new wheels, you will not need wheel spacers as you should purchase wheels with the correct backspace to begin with. Many do not prefer spacers, but if you use them you need to pull wheels and check the torque of the spacers. A common suggestion is to check wheel spacer torque at oil change intervals.
HEY 08CANYON...what do you think about this setup of wheels and tires....
TIRES
4 New Wild Country MTX Mud Terrain Tires M T 32x11 5 15 32x11 50x15 32115015 | eBay
WHEELS
Pro Comp Wheel 98 5884 Rock Crawler Black Monster Mod 15x8 6x5 5 BS 4 5" | eBay
:th_woot:
TIRES
4 New Wild Country MTX Mud Terrain Tires M T 32x11 5 15 32x11 50x15 32115015 | eBay
WHEELS
Pro Comp Wheel 98 5884 Rock Crawler Black Monster Mod 15x8 6x5 5 BS 4 5" | eBay
:th_woot:
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