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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking of spraying a light tint on my DRLs.
Can't beat Rustoleum, but I know many here have used VHT.

Anyone got a preference?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The only problem I see..with either..is if its going on the DRLs...and only a light tint..then it is probable that when they are on you'll see a spotty effect...I woud go with an actual tint film vs. A spray.

|mobile|
I'll consider that. Thanks..



Hmmm.

I just came across this on Amazon:




Anybody tried these?
At $30 (is that per pair ???) I think I'll give 'em a try.

Amazon is cool about returns anyway.
 

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Had a set of those imo the quality wasnt that good the reflectors on the side were crooked and the sockets were not clocked the right way for the socket orientation, but just to tint or film, pretty good buy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Had a set of those imo the quality wasnt that good the reflectors on the side were crooked and the sockets were not clocked the right way for the socket orientation, but just to tint or film, pretty good buy
Thanks for the heads-up. At that price I had to wonder.
I didn't know anyone made an aftermarket DRL.


What about these?
Anyone know about them?


 

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I have a set of those last ones as well.
Only thing I don't like about the is the holding tab in the corner is very stiff and cheap.
So once you change the bulb it snaps off .
Lost my right and my left ,the last one was when I added Supermodulation led switchback kit
Anyway I used some Velcro to hold em in place
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
...I would go with an actual tint film vs. A spray.
If your gonna tint, I'd go with film. If only because it can be removed if you don't like it.
I'm convinced.

I ordered the first set above for now. May tint them, or not.
If I don't like them then I'll return them.




When I return home in about three months the plan is:
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Take my old original DRLs out of storage.
Cut away the back side, leaving only the front lens face and mounting-tabs.
Mount two grids of orange/clear-lens LED behind the lens centered where the two original bulbs were located.
Seal the LED grids with clear silicone across the rear of the lens.
Make a black tint film mask to cover the face, with two oval cutout windows in front of the LEDs.
_________________________________


I want to be done with leaks and clearing corners.
With this there will be no place for water to accumulate and the tint-film mask will cover the corners.

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9/10 times I recommend rust oleum for any painting. But I recommend you stay away from their tint. I did the tails on my last car with a friend that had done several sets with vht. The rust oleum took forever to dry and then when we tried to buff them it started coming off. I did eventually respray them and it dried and cured and looked pretty good. But it was almost too dark, and wasn't as smooth and shiny as I would've liked.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
9/10 times I recommend rust oleum for any painting. But I recommend you stay away from their tint.....
That's good information for everyone here.
Thanks!
 

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Definitely go with film. Mine is a smoked clear-bra film that I got from a buddy that does clear-bra installs for a living



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Nexus using the crappy AutoGuide.com free app
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Definitely go with film. Mine is a smoked clear-bra film that I got from a buddy that does clear-bra installs for a living

Thanks sir! :355group:
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Gotta say, I'm liking these pretty well:





... and the sockets were not clocked the right way for the socket orientation..
Yep, the sockets are not "clocked" right, as you said.

When you insert the bulb+socket on these units, they're rotated about 180 degrees off the OE units. Makes no difference to the appearance at all but..

The wire harness enters the rear of the sockets from the sides.
And the two wires that connect the inner-most socket to the outer one are not long enough to make it across that greater distance created by the point where the wire exiting is being rotated to the other side of the socket. Same as if your house were rotated 180 degrees, the cables entering the house would then not be long enough to reach..


When I tried to install the sockets the wires just wouldn't go that distance, so I had to cut the wires to the inner bulbs.
I ran out of time so I just re-installed the sockets even though the inner lamps are now disconnected.
The outer-most lamps work just fine, and since they have both the running light and the turn-signal, it's fine for now.

I just need to solder two pieces of 18-gauge wire into the circuit to add 5 inches or so length between the outer and inner bulbs sockets.
That will free them to rotate to the necessary position.


On the other hand, the lamp sockets sit into the holes WAY more tightly against the O-rings than the original units.
And I've run her through some pretty aggressive carwashes with NO leaks, no fogging.


The weird thing is, there are ~ 3/32" holes through the back side of the units. Four holes, one above the socket-hole and one below, both the inner and the outer sockets.
The holes were covered with little round dots of black tape, sorta like a thin duct-tape.

I pulled the dots off and sealed the holes with blobs of black RTV silicone.

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pssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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^^the holes are for it to breathe...another way to prevent the fogging...I'm not sure which is better tho? Completely sealed or the breather holes


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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
^^the holes are for it to breathe...another way to prevent the fogging...I'm not sure which is better tho? Completely sealed or the breather holes


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Some here over the years have posted that they drill holes for the same purpose.
But if that be the case, why were the holes covered with tape?

The rear of the units are black, and the tape was black.
My eyes are very weak, I'm not sure I would have noticed the tape except on impulse I placed my palm flat over one of the socket-holes and put my mouth over the other to blow into the unit to see if I could detect any leakage around the outside edges.
Heard air escaping from one of the holes when the tape blew loose.

Thing is, if you look at the DRLs at the outside rear edges when they're mounted on the truck, car-wash water is funneled into the opening and into the area behind the DRL body.
I think those holes would just let a lot of water in.


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