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Hey im new to the lifting seen as i went from a lowered s10 to my new z71 colorado, and am looking to get it a little higher. ive noticed everybody seemes to be going big with the 4" rancho/skyjacker/CST kits for big budgets and with the 1" hockey puck body lift/rear shackle and TB crank for the lower budget. what i am wondering is why no one does an axle flip and then just use blocks? is there a major disadvantage to this? the other question i have is what do you guys recommend for shocks once its lifted. i really dont want to sacrifice ride quality. Thanks for the help!
 

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Not really sure why you would want to run blocks since there is pretty much every option for a suspension lift between 2 and 4 inches.

One reason people might not do the axle flip is because that will put the driveshaft closer to the crossmember, therfore creating less travel. No one has really done it, so I am not positive, but it makes sense haha.

For body lifts, you said the 1 inch hocke puck lift. You can also do a 3" PA body lift.

Suspension lifts, you can do a 2" lift with shackles and crank the torsion bars. The shocks for this can be Rancho RS5301s for the front and RS5190s for the rear. You will need the rears but the fronts aren't necesary but will help with the ride. Other companies make shocks to fit, but I don't know which ones off the top of my head.

4" lifts are also a possibility as you said.

I have the 2" lift with the Ranchos. It's a "stiff" ride, but I like it. Doesn't bounce everywhere.

Hope this helps man.
 

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going along the same lines as Blurred, a rear axle flip will generally net you4-5 inches of lift, and create axle wrap problem in higher horsepower applications.
I used to run a high horsepower Jeep CJ and tried a axle flip, generally referred to as a SOA(spring over axle) and quickly returned to how our Canyon is det up in the rear SUA (spring under axle). Generally most of the OEM who use leaf spring have moved to this configuration.There is less leverage and spring wrap because the axle centreline is closer to the spring.
Also with just about every aftermarket lift kit you will need to purchase new rims with the proper offset due to the new steering knuckles provided. There are many ways to make tire clearance,the general guidelines are what you are doing with it,and how big is your budget.
 

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Plus on our application you would need a 4" lift up front to level out the truck after the SOA conversion.

You're better off with an AAL in the rear and the TB crank unless you want to get a full suspension lift. And stay away from the TB keys - they are a waste of money.
 

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Hey im new to the lifting seen as i went from a lowered s10 to my new z71 colorado, and am looking to get it a little higher. ive noticed everybody seemes to be going big with the 4" rancho/skyjacker/CST kits for big budgets and with the 1" hockey puck body lift/rear shackle and TB crank for the lower budget. what i am wondering is why no one does an axle flip and then just use blocks? is there a major disadvantage to this? the other question i have is what do you guys recommend for shocks once its lifted. i really dont want to sacrifice ride quality. Thanks for the help!

There is no lift for the fronts of our trucks to compensate the big height gain of a axel flip. The ass end of the truck would be up in the air, lmao.

Could always do a conversion up front to a straight axel, don't think anyone has ever done it and had the 4wd functionial though.
 

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Saw a solid axle conversion on another site. Looked really good. And not to mention improved durability and function. The biggest hurdle would be keeping the ABS operable. I was reading an article in one of my 4x mags, and they were telling what an awesome deal you could get from Chrysler on brand new DANA 44 Rubicon axles complete with electric lockers brakes and the works. Can't remember the price but I am thinking in the 3k ranges for the pair. Rear axle is super easy, to bolt up. Cut off the link mounts and add some spring saddles. The front, well first the diff is on the wrong side. A steering box would have to be added, as the rack and pinion would not be compatible. I would use some sort of Jeep long arm kit. Add a track bar.
Then figure out the ABS....... A great project however your truck would be off the road a while to figure out some of the challenges. Hopefully a few of the Aftermarket companies that do Solid Axles conversion could take up this cause and offer some kits to facilitate this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
what makes torsion keys a waste of money? the way i understand it is that they arent needed however you can get a better ride by changing the keys because you arent loading the bars up so much.

does anyone recommed any other shocks other than the rancho ones? in another forum someone has Procomp shocks for sale and also Edelbrock shock and also know that skyjacker makes shocks?
 

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what makes torsion keys a waste of money? the way i understand it is that they arent needed however you can get a better ride by changing the keys because you arent loading the bars up so much.

does anyone recommed any other shocks other than the rancho ones? in another forum someone has Procomp shocks for sale and also Edelbrock shock and also know that skyjacker makes shocks?

The ride really isn't that different.
 

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i have keys...i like them, i can tell a diffrence in the ride quality 4 sure. i do wanna crank another inch tho. hehe...
 

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after seeing the stockers when i replaced them im surprisedf they havent broke haha. it seems like any abuse and they would crack ..
 

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Saw a solid axle conversion on another site. Looked really good. And not to mention improved durability and function. The biggest hurdle would be keeping the ABS operable. I was reading an article in one of my 4x mags, and they were telling what an awesome deal you could get from Chrysler on brand new DANA 44 Rubicon axles complete with electric lockers brakes and the works. Can't remember the price but I am thinking in the 3k ranges for the pair. Rear axle is super easy, to bolt up. Cut off the link mounts and add some spring saddles. The front, well first the diff is on the wrong side. A steering box would have to be added, as the rack and pinion would not be compatible. I would use some sort of Jeep long arm kit. Add a track bar.
Then figure out the ABS....... A great project however your truck would be off the road a while to figure out some of the challenges. Hopefully a few of the Aftermarket companies that do Solid Axles conversion could take up this cause and offer some kits to facilitate this.





It looks like the 2nd might actually have the front axel functional fo 4wd. Both are awesome trucks.
 

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im not a fan of the first one...looks odd because the wheels seem so small but the second is a monster for sure!
 

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If I remember correctly - the black truck is a hack job. Horrible welds and otherwise badly done.
 

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Nice show trucks, and much effort and mega money. The truck I refer to was a white one on 35 x12.50 BFG MT'S. it was still needed finish work. But this guy was headed in the right direction.
 

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I'd like to see under body photos. Wonder if they had to box the front end of the frame, or do anything with it. What axle they used, how long the leaves are. As I plan to do this in a year are 2.
 
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