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Thanks M O Z, there was days when I was sitting their thinking, (looking at a brand new truck in a zillion pieces) Man, you gota be the dumbest dude in the world.
 

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I wish I could do the same with a new truck and tear it apart but I could never justify it. I am tearing my 04 apart when I get everything gathered and make something different n unique.
 

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Le me know if I can help in any way. If you are going to go to a v8, do the biggest one you can afford because you will get bored with it( like buying a small motorcycle) and a couple of years later you will say to yourself "man, for just a few bucks more I could have had------
 

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Discussion Starter #26
need more power!! I want a 6.2L with a maggie. But my wallet says no!
 

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Discussion Starter #28

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Eventually I need that damn accelerator pedal bracket do hickey from you lol. When I get a v8 ill prolly send both my I5 harness and a v8 if I get one with motor.
 

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Great eng. choice, they are bulletproof, and there is no end to how you can modify them if you chose. If it is one of the lower compression iron blocks it is a great base for a turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Eventually I need that damn accelerator pedal bracket do hickey from you lol. When I get a v8 ill prolly send both my I5 harness and a v8 if I get one with motor.
cool. You should blow up the I5 the night before the swap.. run a ton of nitrous through it.. or sell... maybe that would be the better choice!
 

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Discussion Starter #34

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For those who pick up a truck motor to swap in your colly/canyon this is a how to to convert your truck style intake to a car which would allow you hood clearance. Depending on your build and throtle body you choose will actually determine which route to take. The main issue with converting your intake would be the clearance with the water pump and tensioner, again depending on your TB you choose to run. When you do your mock up with your intake, water pump and alt bracket, you will discover that your water pump neck will hit the throttle body and your idler pulley on your alt bracket also hits on the other side, depending on your TB.
You have a few options with a range of price's to go with...I guess it would all depend on what you want. If you plan to keep and run your truck accesories, which would be ideal understand that truck and car accessories cannot interchange due with the different spacing, I think it's about 3/4 inch off.

1. Take your truck WP to a machine shop and mod it to work or you can do it yourself.
2. Run a F-Body WP, spacers will be needed to make this work. The spacer will bring out the WP out 3/4" to match the rest of your drive. Can be picked up from ebay or action speed parts
3. Run the L99 WP off a 2010/11 Camaro, PN 19207665. I know its a car WP but for some odd reason this would remedy your WP issue. The only thing is that you also have to use the L99 tensioner. No spacers needed just bolt on.
4. Convert your entire drive assembly to a f-body style. Although GM don't make f-body kits anymore you'de have to pick a corvette one or find them piece by piece...costly

Now that your have your WP resolved you now can chop your alt bracket to relocate your idler pulley. You may still use your truck bracket. You may also purchase a differenct alt bracket if you choose but really not necessary. They can be gotten from kwik performance but unsure on fitment. Mock it up and cut where needed. I used a saw zaw and cutting wheel to remove the section. The cheapest way to reocate your idler pulley is to make your own that will cost no more than $20. Remove the pulley bolt and replace with washers to mock up how much the pulley will need to come out to align with the rest of the drives. Measurement is 10mm ID, 30mm OD and 20mm in length so you don't need to do the measuring. Now you have your spacer and you now have to replace your pulley bolt with a longer one that will need to me m10x160mm. Or you can order a relocation bracket that will mount to the 2 holes that go on the head which will allow you to mount your pulley in between, runs around $30. Can be gotten at dirty dingo or action speed parts.
Now you just need to measure for your belt...sorry I forgot what I used. But if you were to take a old belt from one of those rachet ties, you can measure easier and faster.
Schwanke engines also sells a complete kit. These are just some options as there are manyother ways out there to achieve the same results.

Hope this helps and sorry if some of it doesn't make sense. It's been a while and may have forgotten some stuff along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Yeah Thanks !!
 

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Forgot to mention that the L99 is the ls3 in the camaro ss. Weird how GM makes things these days. I remember looking for the ls9 valve covers or ls7 dont remember which one but they sell them and only comes with 3 coils? So if you wanted a set you'd have to buy 2 extra coils on top of the set...retarded. Good thing though, it saved me a bunch of cash lol
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Forgot to mention that the L99 is the ls3 in the camaro ss. Weird how GM makes things these days. I remember looking for the ls9 valve covers or ls7 dont remember which one but they sell them and only comes with 3 coils? So if you wanted a set you'd have to buy 2 extra coils on top of the set...retarded. Good thing though, it saved me a bunch of cash lol
I guess GM wanted a V6??
 

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Forgot to mention that the L99 is the ls3 in the camaro ss. Weird how GM makes things these days. I remember looking for the ls9 valve covers or ls7 dont remember which one but they sell them and only comes with 3 coils? So if you wanted a set you'd have to buy 2 extra coils on top of the set...retarded. Good thing though, it saved me a bunch of cash lol
Somewhat true, but not really. There are two motor options available for the new Camaro SS. The L99 is the motor you get with the auto. Essentially an LS3, but with DoD and that other emissions/economy bullshit.
 
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