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Discussion Starter #1
2005 Colorado z71 4wd. 150k. New pads and rotors maybe 15k ago. Intermittent abs fault and abs light for some time now. Anyway I drove my truck a bit yesterday and noticed the driver rim and hub were very hot. My buddy told me that I should get a new caliper but after looking on here I'm gonna see about the condition of the slide pins. If I do have to get a new caliper, is there a procedure on here for replacing it and also properly filling and bleeding that new caliper? Thanks!


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just go with a new caliper. my pass. side did this to me last year. there like $70 from auto zone. when you put the new one on leave the wheel/tire off and open the bleeder valve, and take the top off the brake fluid fill. let it gravity bleed it only takes about a min. then just bleed it normally. done deal. takes about 20 mins from start to end.
 

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Thanks guys. I got my new caliper and got to work. Found the lower pin (the one w the rubber o ring) was locked solid. Took some work it get it out. Cleaned everything up, installed new caliper and let it gravity flow out, used my mity vac and then a friend to hit the brake pedal and I was done. Getting the pads to fit into those damn springs was more work than anything else. Oh, I used new pins and rubber parts w grease too. So far so good.


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Not to hijack, but along the same line of replacing the left front caliper.....


Mine started locking up ('05 Canyon 4x4) about 4-5 weeks ago. No biggie, I thought, I'll just throw a couple of rebuilt calipers on it, and be done. Yeah, right!

I get the thing apart, back together, bleed the brakes, and just before I put the wheels back on, I hop in the cab, and give the brake pedal a push. Seems mushy, so I look at the floor under the truck, and see a couple of pools of brake fluid. I crank down on the banjo bolts and try again. The RF is sealed up just fine, but the LF is still dripping. Crank some more, try again, still dripping.

I know the steel part of the lines themselves are a little rusty, as this ride has seen 9 road salt filled winters, so I take the hose back off the caliper and file the rust off the surface that contacts the caliper, thinking this might be causing the block to not seat and seal. Again, some seepage, but I crank the livin' snot out of it and finally get it to seal up.

HOWEVER, I'm not happy with brakes that might not be 100%, so I buy a pair of new front hoses, and put them on today. STRANGELY, the RF again seals up without too much torque on the banjo bolt (29 ft/lbs is spec), but again, I had to fight with the LF to get it to seal. I wound up putting almost 50 ft/lbs of torque to the bolt, to get the crush washers to finally seal.

Anybody else have this problem?
 
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