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Discussion Starter #1

So, I've had the idea of putting in an engine as such into my '04 Colly for quite a while; most tech things are roughly sorted out but I'm onto the fun part.. wiring. As a guy I work with said to me, a high horse engine is easy to put in, it's getting the computers to play nice. So my question is would this kit be on the plug & play end of things?
 

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for the engine to run, yes. for it to talk to the bcm and have gauge function like oem, most likely not. your better off selecting the motor and trans you want and sourcing the wiring ecu options separately. for a plug and play solution contact jaime on here for harness ecu work or reach out to CP performance and get their setup. most likely youll save some serious money too.
 

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im not sure to be honest, haven't used him for my harness stuff. i made my own. but I'm sure one of the other swap guys will chime in if Jaime doesn't see it direct
 

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If I was doing this in an 04', I would probably get the engine to run stand-alone with its controller and then just run aftermarket gauges.

$11k is a chunk of $. I'm pulling the stock factory all aluminum 5.3L from my 2009 Colorado fully complete with harness and ECM, listed for sale for $4k. Comes with factory V8 Colorado mounts, all front accessories, all manifolds, fully dressed. Can even include trans and trans controller. I'm re-using the transfer case. That gets you to 300hp as a starting point.
 

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Get a L92 from a 07 Escalade or Yukon XL. Non DOD engine and 400 HP right out the gate
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If I was doing this in an 04', I would probably get the engine to run stand-alone with its controller and then just run aftermarket gauges.

$11k is a chunk of $. I'm pulling the stock factory all aluminum 5.3L from my 2009 Colorado fully complete with harness and ECM, listed for sale for $4k. Comes with factory V8 Colorado mounts, all front accessories, all manifolds, fully dressed. Can even include trans and trans controller. I'm re-using the transfer case. That gets you to 300hp as a starting point.
Where would be a good place to get aftermarket gauges? I haven't really thought about going that route until now and it isn't a bad idea
 

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Of the 4 factory gauges, I think 2-3 will work as-is. If you use the same trans, your speedo should work, or switch to a GPS one. Fuel gauge should work. Temp gauge, just use your existing temp sender onto an additional port on the V8 engine. Tach is the only one that may need to be aftermarket.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry for taking a while to respond, white tale season is among us here so I've been busy; I don't know if they're is anything different between the two, I'm no wiring expert by any means nor have I looked into the fine details of whats behind the dashboard, but what would happen if I got an instrument cluster from/ for a v8? If anyone could explain in detail they're findings and tid-bits of knowledge of the wiring part of the swap, the more the merrier ha ha, any details, mental side notes that have been found, etc.
 

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Yes, the engine controller. I have not studied dash signals too much, they may be driven from the BCM. I can check tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I guess something that has been on my mind is, in a general engine swap on our trucks, what is all being replaced on the wiring end of things? I'd like to keep it turn-key which I am well aware that it makes things even more of a pain.
 

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if turn key is the main priority then i stand by my original post. contact cp performance for a direct swap harness and ecu or Jaime for his setup. either way that's the best option for easy of install. get the LSX variation you want(4.8/5.3/6.0/6.2,etc). pick your trans(4l80e/t56/AR5/etc) and then with the wiring and ecu and mounts, should drop right in and fire up.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you cb, I'll be messaging Jaime shortly. Apparently Chevy makes a small block 7.4 that still makes the numbers that the legendary big block made; however true that is, it'd be cool to see that in a colorado. I was thinking about it but that would be a bit much for my plans haha
 

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well making another motor fit then comes all the other issues, like trans, mounts, wiring, etc. the larger ls swap is kind of refined in this chassis and easy. plus (depending on budget) you can call whatever engine builder you preffer, say texas speed, order a nice torquey ls3 or ls7 that makes mid 500hp all day and have a blast yet still be reliable and able to stay cool and maintain A/C etc. i have over 700 in mine and its retarded. track its a blast, but on the street if the tire pressures slightly up or its a little chilly out then i have issues getting traction at even speeds over 60mph if i hit it hard. gotta drive like an egg under the gas pedal most time. is fun when you see a sport car or some kid in a mustang get fresh with me, just to destroy them in a old Alabama service truck though and watch their face in horror lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
lol that sounds like a blast, I planned on building for about 400 at the wheels, which lands about 500 horses at the crank. I want to keep 4wd because being in Wisconsin, it helps when f*ck yeah becomes, awww sh*t lol. Although the engine in the link is a bit pricey, I like it because it gives a bit of play for possible forced induction; something that I'd like to explore a little bit once everything is working properly. I plan on running a pretty much stock drive line set aside from a reinforced transmission and having my 3.73s rebuilt and different sized drive shafts if needed.
 

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things to ponder with your other options.....almost any LS you buy can hold boost at low levels. I'm pushing over 20 psi on basically a bone stock 4.8l. i mean head gaskets, bolts, etc out of a 185K mile junkyard motor....you don't need a boost specific motor exactly but picking one with a decent compression and good components will leave you room to grow or add boost as wanted. trans i suggest a 4l80e variant over the 4l60. you didn't specify so I'm just offering up .02 that you may already know. also id consider the driveshaft, lengths will be different, i got a local made 3.5" thick aluminum one made for less than $450 and its good for well over 1kwhp. easy insurance and something i wont have to worry about breaking lol
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you for your input, I was planning on using a 4l60 mainly because I know more about them and there is a large aftermarket base for parts; what are the big differences between the two? I figured on the driveshafts being different lengths, how do you measure those; I plan on doing close to what you did, go to a shop, say this is what I need here are the dimensions, and a while later I have driveshafts lol. The overbuild part I didn't think of so I'll definitely be doing that lol. If I could get a junk vehicle with a 5.7 or 6.2 I'd rather that, however my mind set was I know what I'd get with a new crate engine, meaning wear that an untrained eye would overlook. I was looking into crate 5.7s but I figured since I'd be getting it built, why not go for gold and just get a 6.2 right away. Plus it sounds more intimidating telling people its an LSX haha
 

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the 4l60e is not a very strong trans and even can break under stock power levels. if your educated in the 4l60e then you know its comparable a newer electronic version of a turbo 350....well the 4l80e is similar in that it is comparable as the newer electronic version of the turbo 400. still a 4 speed with OD, larger input and output shafts, better clutches, etc etc etc. just a beefier trans and will simple mods can handle 800 whp all day with ease and still cruise and have over drive. for driveshaft measurements you'll want to make sure motor and trans are in their home(bolted down into chassis exactly where they will ride) and then theres several ways to measure, i suggest once you pick a driveshaft shop just call and ask them where they want measurements from. can be trans seal to diff flange, yoke center to yoke center, etc etc. just many ways to skin that cat. ask what they prefer and done. id suggest as i stated previously into looking at motors by competent companies that build motors. whatever your flavor is. for example, RPM, texas-speed, Vengance racing, Late model racecraft, etc etc etc. or a local builder you may have. with the prices where they are on LS3's currently id definitely go with a new motor if that's in the budget and your primary concern is power goals and reliability. get it new, as you want and be done. then you can also tell them your expectations exactly and get what you want the first time and saves you money. like your not buying a stock motor new then having to buy cams, heads, etc etc and spend money twice.
 
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