[Mordis]

Build a full floater rear

If i was going to go full drag truck I probably would run a floater and tub it out, but I do still tow a boat with it to go camping. That and I started with the wrong base model for racing crewcab as opposed to regular or extended.

 

[Mordis]

Ok time for update #2

So I'm back in town and the PCM/TCM is back from Magnuson and Today was the first real day of work. On with the pics.

Didn't really take too many pics of unplugging most of the sensors so we start with the intake removed:

Alternator out:

Grill off:

Belt off and some hoses taken off:

Clutch Fan, Radiator and Condenser out:

Core support center bracket taken out to make it easier to work:

Power steering pump pulley off:

Alternator & Power Steering bracket out:

Water pump off:

Clearancing the bracket for the Supercharger & Tensioner Bracket:

New lifter valley plate with new gasket:

Steam pipe removed and new one installed:

Left Coil Bracket & Valve Cover:

Right Coil Bracket & Valve Cover:

And that's where we stopped for the night, we figured we'll leave the engine sealed up for the night then open it tomorrow and start on the internals.

 

[Mordis]

Today's Progress..

Started with getting the valve covers off.

Next the rockers.

Plugs out so we could use a hose to pressurize the cylinder we were working on.

Taking the old springs off.

Springs and seals off.

New seats & seals on.

Springs & retainers on, used a little dab of TransJel Red on the keepers to keep it in place.

Repeat x7 and the result.

Then moved on to the front again, Crank bolt out.

Balancer off.

And last the timing cover off, I was surprised to find the chain tensioner was still in one piece, Still putting the LS2 style in anyway.

And that's where we stopped for the night, next step will be getting the Oil pan down so we can undo the pickup tube from the pump then get the pump off and the VVT sprocket out then the cam will come out.

Also while draining the oil found a small amount of oil on the bottom of the oil pan as well a little on the bell housing which was not there when I did the exhaust so I'll have to look at that closer when we get the pan off hopefully it's just pan gasket and not the rear seal.

 

[t-bone]

Loving it
This thing is gonna be a beast

 

[Mordis]

Alright update time, this one isn't too big got a little work in after work so this is just some more parts & getting the oil pan out.

First since BridgestonePHM9 said I didn't order enough parts, I ordered more.

This is a CSF Racing all aluminum H3 Radiator which will also work in our trucks, I counted the tubes on the stock radiator and there are 62 total the CSF radiator is 70 total and as you can see in the pics the fin count per inch is higher as well.

More info here: New Heavy Duty Hummer H3 radiator - CSF Racing

CSF

Stock

Oil Pan Bolts:

Oil Pan Gasket:

Pan out:

Little sludge down in there:

Windage Tray:

Oil Pump off:

Tomorrow will be getting the timing chain off and the cam out. Oh also I think my small oil leak was from the Left rear of the pan cause looking up at the main seal it is dry and as you can see by the pic the flywheel is dry as well.

 

[FrEaK_aCcIdEnT]

I've had the CSF Aluminum Rad in my Amazon wish list for a while. Good info on the extra effeciency!

 

[Lnhiv]

I honestly didn't know about the CSF one until right now. I only knew about the Griffin......hmmmmmmmmm.

The Griffin has no trans cooler though, which I like for my yellow one. The CSF would be a better fit for my red one.

 

[Mordis]

I've had the CSF Aluminum Rad in my Amazon wish list for a while. Good info on the extra effeciency!

Yeah I picked it up off Amazon as well, I didn't really find it cheaper anywhere else and I got free shipping because of Prime.

I honestly didn't know about the CSF one until right now. I only knew about the Griffin......hmmmmmmmmm.

The Griffin has no trans cooler though, which I like for my yellow one. The CSF would be a better fit for my red one.

I considered Griffin as well the reason I went with the CSF was mostly for the transmission cooler because in the Michigan winters the heat from the radiator will help the transmission get up to temp quicker, granted I don't drive it much in the winter but that was my main reason choosing CSF over Griffin.

 

[Lnhiv]

I considered Griffin as well the reason I went with the CSF was mostly for the transmission cooler because in the Michigan winters the heat from the radiator will help the transmission get up to temp quicker, granted I don't drive it much in the winter but that was my main reason choosing CSF over Griffin.

Yup, perfectly valid....out here near Phoenix with our super chilly winters of freezing temps MAYBE 3 nights a year (literally like 29-31F this last winter lol), it's not much of a concern. In the summer months, especially when romping through the desert, having the extra cooling of splitting the two apart is worth it. That's why I want to do the Griffin in the yellow one. The red one is soon to be DD status and a street only truck, so I'll stick with the combo unit with extra trans cooler.

 

[Mordis]

Today's update..

Got a decent amount done today, on with the pics.

First a couple pics that should have been on yesterday's post.

CSF radiator "cap":

How we lifted the motor to get the oil pan out.

TDC:

Starter out:

Flywheel lock:

Cam bolt loose:

Phaser and chain off:

Cam retainer off:

3/16" Brake line to hold the lifters up and taking the cam out:

New cam:

Tensioner out and block installed:

Putting the limiter block in the phaser:

Retainer plate back on:

Pinning the crankshaft for the ATI dampner:

Phaser and Katech chain installed:

Oil pan all cleaned up and new gasket:

Pickup tube installed:

Oil pan installed:

Crossmember and steering rack bolted back in:

And that's where we stopped for the night, next up will be getting the motor back in the mounts and then onward from there.

 

[Mordis]

Today's work..

Started with getting the oil pump back on the engine:

Then was getting the motor mounts put back together, we loosened the Trans mount slightly then used pry bars and the chain fall to get them back in place and get the bolts back in:

I then went underneath and cleaned up the rest of the oil from the pan leak and put a new bellhousing viewing plug back in, since it hasn't had one since I bought the truck:

Before of the timing cover:

I took the VVT solenoid out and it damaged the seal a bit, I could probably reuse it and be no problem but since I had to order some other parts anyway I had no problem waiting for a new one.

Timing cover cleaned up:

Installing the timing cover:

Next I moved on to the rocker arms:

Removing press in trunnions:

Next installing the CHE bushings and trunnions:

And here is where we ran into a problem, the Texas Speed rockers are a little wider than the stock rockers and because of this you can only get one snap ring on the CHE trunnion, So Ill have to call Texas Speed on Monday and probably ship the rockers and trunnions back to them to have them shave down the rockers so the CHE trunnions will fit. According to this https://ls1tech.com/forums/generati...-speed-rocker-arms-update-3.html#post19641659 it looks like they will do it, Just have to give them a call and set it up:

So since we got stopped there we decided to get the water pump set up, pulling the stock pulley off:

Then we drilled and tapped the end of the water pump shaft so we could use a power steering pulley installer to install the hub on the water pump, here is a pic of us installing the hub on the pump:

Installed:

Then blue loctited the pulley bolts back onto the hub:

 

[xtreme_lyb]

Awesome!! Can't wait to see it finished!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mordis]

Didn't get much done today had some stuff to do but here is what we did.

Got the new VVT Solenoid gasket so got that installed along with a new cam position sensor because the original one was a pain in the ass to get out of the timing cover because the plastic swells up due to heat and oil:

Next we assembled the ATI damper:

Then installed:

ARP bolt installed and torqued to 235 ft. lb.:

Next installed the AC belt because it's easier to do it now when all of the shit is out of the way:

Cleaned up the water pump surfaces:

And installed the pump:

Also installed the 174° Thermostat, this a pic of the stock 86°C (186°F) Thermostat:

And that's all we got done tonight, we'll pick it back up tomorrow.

 

[Mordis]

Today's update...

We spent some more time today working on the water pump pulley some more we ended up drilling out the metric hole we put in the shaft of the pump and drilling it out bigger to 3/8" to use a stronger pusher to get the hub on further. We finally were able to get it to move more and we for the 1/8" more we were looking for however by getting it there the ARP bolts were hitting the pump so we had to grind off about 1 thread on each bolt, once that was done were able to blue loctite the bolts again and get the pulley back on hub.

Anyway on with the pics of the other stuff we did.

First I put a new gas cap on cause the seal on the original was hard and didn't seal very well:

Installed the brackets on the intercooler:

Mounting the intercooler:

Center support back in:

Took the headlight out:

Tire off for inner fender access:

Took the lower airbox out:

Drilled the intercooler passthrough holes:

Installed intercooler pump:

Drilled the holes for the intercooler reservoir:

Installed reservoir bracket:

Installed reservoir:

Installed the tube between the reservoir and the pump inlet:

Put the headlight back in:

Next we worked on the Radix bracket from Magnuson:

Installed the HD tensioner on the bracket:

Took the stock idler off and determined what length bolt we'll need for the wider ATI idler pulleys:

Then found the one on the left was hitting the bracket and rubbing on the back of the pulley:

It was hitting where ATI stamped 207 on the back:

So we clearanced the bracket with a grinding tool and added a .030 shim:

And last thing we did was bolt on the pulley on the alternator and we found that they machined it too far and the nut bottomed out and the pulley never tightened up so we had to add a washer to it for it to be secure:

 

[Mordis]

Labor Day update..

Since I'm still waiting on the rockers to get back from Texas Speed we are mostly doing stuff that we can so here is what we got done today.

First we took the "hat" off of the basket:

Next we modified the Aeromotive pump to mostly match the stock pump:

In the stock strainer:

Spacer and seal:

Checking clearance on the top of the pump since the Aeromotive pump is about 3/8" of inch taller, we did take about 3/8" off the "hat" on the inlet part of of the hat but I forgot to take a pic:

Installed and hat locked back on:

Cut the end off:

Crimped on:

Soldered:

Heatshrink:

Plugged back in:

Sending unit put back in:

Pump done:

Next was removing the tank:

Filler tube off:

Siphoning the gas out:

Straps off and taking it out:

Tank out and tree shit:

Stock pump out:

Modified pump installed:

Lines put back on:

Didn't really take any pics of the tank going back in since it's just the reverse of taking it out.

While the ass end was jacked up I softened up the compression on the shocks cause it was way too stiff going over bumps:

And the last thing we did for the night was replace the cowl since the old one was brittle and the rubber was breaking apart:

So that's where we are at for the moment, Going to call Texas Speed tomorrow to see if I can hopefully get the rockers back by Friday.

 

[FrEaK_aCcIdEnT]

Ba da dat dat da, I'm lovin it!

 

[Mordis]

Ba da dat dat da, I'm lovin it!

:bestest:

Mid week update, Most of the stuff should be here Today including some :supermod: stuff, Pics Friday.

 

[Mordis]

Friday update..

To start I took a injector out of the supercharger tub to get the numbers off of it for James and he looked them up and they are 50 pound injectors:

Next thing we did was use the length checker to figure out what pushrods I need and using this method https://ls1tech.com/forums/generati...yella-terra-pushrod-question.html#post8290983 we came up with 7.200 which is .200 shorter than the stock 7.400 and will also give me a .050 preload on the lifter. Once we had the length we drove down to Trend Racing Products and bought some push rods. Trend is the parent company of Diamond Racing Pistons and Katech also sells Trend push rods:

Once we got back and since the truck is still up in the air I took the flywheel lock back out and installed the starter:

Then since most of the oil system is dry I filled the filter:

And installed:

Next installed the new foam "seal" and cut out the holes in the foam for the intercooler tubes:

Drivers side:

Since we were now able to permanently mount the heat exchanger for the intercooler we installed the tube from the pump to the exchanger:

Next got the CSF radiator out:

I cleaned most of the bug guts out of the condenser and installed it on the radiator:

Installed the new foam on the top of the radiator:

Then test fit the radiator in the truck, we'll have to take it back out to put the power steering/alternator bracket back in as well as the power steering pulley:

Installed the cover on the cap:

Since I got the PCM and TCM back from James we installed those back in the truck:

And the last thing we did for the night was install Silverado Horns since the stock one sounded like shit:

Tomorrow we are hoping to get the rockers and pushrods in and the valve covers on and then the power steering/alternator bracket and then probably the supercharger.

 

[Mordis]

Ok today we got some stuff done and here it is!

Started with installing the ARP rocker studs and the rocker pedestals:

Installed pushrods:

Then installed the rockers rotating the engine making sure the lifter was on the base circle of the cam when we torqued the rocker down:

Next prepped and installed the valve covers:

Next installed the power steering/alternator bracket:

Then we went to install the power steering pulley and found the one ATI includes in the kit is for a Silverado style pump it is .50" bigger and the hub bore is .747". The stock 6 rib pulley is 6.2" and the hub bore is .663", So I have to call ATI on Monday and see what can be done about the situation if anything, if ATI has no direction then I will probably buy this https://innovatorswest.com/974-PS-Pulley.html :

So since we got stopped on the front of the engine we moved back to the top end started with installed the ZR1 MAP and the fuel block:

Next pulled the tape and cleaned the surfaces of the heads:

Installed the gaskets in the tub:

Then we lowered the assembly in place and torqued all 10 bolts:

Changed out the 6 rib blower pulley for an 8 rib, stock 3.8" to start:

Next installed the tensioner bracket and snout support:

Installed the new NGK plugs:

Then the MSD wires:

Then took the coils and wires off the stock brackets:

Cleaned up the coils a bit and installed on the new rockers:

Then plugged in the injectors, and the coil harness:

And that's where we stopped for the night, like I said I'll be calling ATI on Monday and then we'll see where we go from there.

 

[t-bone]

This is amazing I'll be having some wet dreams tonight
I wish I had the knowledge 2 do this 2 mine