[Mordis]

This is amazing I'll be having some wet dreams tonight
I wish I had the knowledge 2 do this 2 mine

lol, As far as doing something like this if you're pretty good at taking stuff apart and putting it back together that's for the most part all I'm doing here with a little modification here and there. The cam kit I bought has all the cam stuff figured out the only thing I had to figure out was pushrod length due to the roller tip rockers and the base circle of the TSP cam being slightly bigger than stock. And as for the supercharger kit it comes with some pretty good instructions in the kit. http://www.magnusonsuperchargers.co...-89-60-033_RevE_09-13_Chevy_Colorado_5-3L.pdf

 

[Mordis]

Ok so Talked with ATI on Monday and told them the specs of the Colorado/Canyon/H3 PS Pump pulley and he sent me a Diagram of a Corvette pulley and it still used the 6.20" pulley which is still slightly bigger than the 6.0" Colorado pulley and the hub was the correct bore so I had to buy that one and they will refund me the Truck pulley when I send it back so anyway it showed up today and it was still a little bit of a fight to get it pressed on.

The biggest problem was they powder coated it which makes it look pretty but when you have 0.003" to press the pulley on the powder coat won't work so we used a brake hone to get the powder coat out of the hub and we also took some stip sand paper and put a bolt in the end of the pump and used a drill to turn the pump while sanding the part of the shaft where the stock pulley was not pressed on to get the rust off of it once that was done we miked the pump shaft to make sure it was uniform then we pressed the pulley on.

I didn't get many pics of the process sadly because we were trying to get the belt done tonight, for anyone considering this ATI kit for thier truck be ready for slight modifications to most of the pulleys that will be installed. Water pump shaft will need to be drilled and tapped so the pulley can be pressed on similar to the PS Pump, the PS pump shaft will need prepped and the hub will need the powder coat cleaned out, the Alternator pulley will need a washer so the nut will tighten down. And if installing on a Magnuson supercharged setup the right pulley will need a shim and a little bracket grinding so the idler pulley does not hit the bracket.

So Anyway after all that here it all is, I turned the engine over a few times by hand to get the belt in line better but wont really know how it will track until it is running.

Also my Uncle tinkered around with some of the top end during the week and here is what he did.

First here are the IAT wires cut and capped from the MAF connector.

This is a bracket that he fabricated using the bracket provided in the Magnuson kit for the EVAP valve, since I installed the Holley valve covers the bracket can't be mounted to the studs that used to be in the coil brackets so it got moved to this bracket he made and bolted to the fuel rail hold down bolts, Also he put the vertical piece on to hold the wire harness up off of the supercharger and he made one for the other side as well so the wiring harness does not touch the top of the supercharger. And it can't be seen in this pic but the IAT wires that were cut off of the MAF now are hooked here because it takes the IAT temp after the intercooler now rather than at the MAF.

Here is a side pic of the one above but in this one you can see what we did with the fuel line extension as well as the brake booster hose:

And the other thing he did this week was make the bracket for the heater hoses a little longer because of the taller valve covers the hoses were hitting the #2 Coil on the valve cover, so he cut it and welded a piece in to hold the hoses up higher to clear the coil he also bent the tubes a bit so they would still reach the pump:

 

[Mordis]

Got some more work done today, at this point I think I'm about 2 to 3 hours worth of work away from starting it up, but anyway here are some pics from today.

We started the day by installing the cold line from the intercooler radiator to the intercooler:

Next put the radiator and condenser in again:

Then we installed the Elite Engineering catch can, we installed this before the fans in case there might be any clearance issues:

Vent port on the left side facing the firewall:

So since it's pointing the wrong way we made this up of some 3/8" fuel line:

Then here is the contraption with the inline PCV valve:

Then the rest of the line to the catch can and the filtered line with a check valve running to the intake:

Next we have Supermodulation fans which are extremely nice:

The only problem I had with the fans which is no fault of the fans is I used the CSF radiator which does not have the mounting holes that the fans are supposed to use so we had to make a new upper bracket for the fans to mount to the tabs on the side of the radiator:

So while waiting for the paint to dry on the new fan bracket we cut the new lower radiator hose to install the temp monitor:

Then installed:

Hooked up the transmission cooler lines:

Then we did all of the wiring in the fuse box for the fan shroud and for the intercooler pump:

Then we found we had to slightly bend the AC line so it would not hit the catch can:

Then we were able to install the new bracket and secure the fans to the radiator:

Last thing I did for the night was clean up and set the lower half of the battery box in the truck:

So basically all we have left is to install the upper radiator hose, then pressure fill the cooling system then install the throttle body and air filter and intake tube then change out the ends on the battery terminals and install the battery, then at that point I will be calling James to have him set up the PCM for the 3 Bar MAP and then firing it up.

 

[05colorado5spd]

Lots of good work going on there, looking forward to the end result.

 

[Mordis]

Lots of good work going on there, looking forward to the end result.

Thank You, you won't have to wait too long because it is running!

So we started the day by getting the upper radiator hose on:

Then we installed the Supermodulation ported throttle body:

New K&N:

Then we spent about an hour fighting to get this damn thing on but finally got there:

Then we changed out the battery terminal connectors:

Installed the battery:

Had to trim the top cover to fit the new terminals:

Cables installed:

Covers:

Installed the grill & hood then charged the AC:

And then after James worked on the PCM for a bit to set up the 3 bar MAP we started it up, the clicking is the lifters priming back up:

Then here it is idling after about 45 minutes of driving around town:

After the first drive with James watching it as I was driving around we found that the Lingenfelter thermostat that I bought was nothing more than a stock Thermostat so the water temp was higher than we wanted so I have to get another and install it. The other issue we had which I was aware of before I started this was the transmission temp was a little warm so I have a transmission cooler on the way.

And last video is a couple revs up to ~2000 RPM:

Did some more driving after the videos and got the CEL and got P0011 & P0300 I talked it over with James and he said that the P0300 is common on newly supercharged engines.

the P0011 could be a few things we put the limiting block in the VVT solenoid so the ECM may be commanding a set timing mark but the limiting block will only allow so much movement. The next thing it could be which I hope it isn't is that when we installed the timing chain it had a touch of slack in it due to removing the tensioner and installing the LS2 Style block damper.

More Data Logging will be necessary to hopefully get the cam under control and after the correct thermostat & transmission cooler is installed we can get more into the tune.

 

[xtreme_lyb]

Beautiful


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FrEaK_aCcIdEnT]

Videos BORKED. I wanna see!!! Awesome that it is running and the attention to detail is amazing!


I found them by quoting your post and getting the YouTube link. Subscribed!

 

[Mordis]

Beautiful


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank You.

Videos BORKED. I wanna see!!! Awesome that it is running and the attention to detail is amazing!


I found them by quoting your post and getting the YouTube link. Subscribed!

Hmm must be issues with the embedding on the forum or something I was able to get them to play, I changed it from embedded to a URL in case others are having issues with it. And Thank You.

 

[Mordis]

Small update; James and I were getting into tuning it I was getting P0011 codes so we made some changes and loaded them then ECU ended up frying, We could clear the P0606 & P0607 codes and it would run for about a minute then die again. I'm going to be adding ground cables from the body to the block and another cable from the block to the engine but at this point the ECU/TCM is on it's way to James.

As for the cam the phaser limiter is stopping the cam as it should so the valves don't kiss the pistons we just need to get the cam base angle (low medium & high) tables in order in the tune to be no more that what the cam phaser limiter is limiting the cam retard to. Since the phaser travel stock was 52 degrees the limiter brings it down to a total of 16 degrees so there is a lot of adjustment to the tables that are needed to get it in order.

And the only other thing for now is like I said in the last post the Lingenfelter Thermostat is just a stock thermostat it opens at 195 even though it is supposed to be a 174 so I bought a 180 and going to test it before we put it in. The thermostat should help with the transmission temp but I also have a Perma-Cool tube/fin cooler on the way for the trans.

Also are the videos not working again for anyone else in the last update? I'm only seeing grey boxes now.

 

[xtreme_lyb]

I can see the videos with no problems, but I'm using the tapatalk app, so I don't know if there's any difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mordis]

Minor update..

We did some some minor stuff to the truck while waiting for the PCM.

First since the trans temp was warmer than we wanted while it was driving I bought a tube fin cooler. Since space is an issue now behind the grill with the intercooler this is about the biggest I wanted to put in there without blocking too much more of the condenser/radiator:

I also bought a new thermostat because of that Lingenfelter POS, and we tested it this time and it did open at 180 like it is supposed to..:

Then installed it:

Then we did the body/frame grounds that James suggested didn't take too many pics but here are some of them installed:
Left side body to alternator bracket:

Right side body to right head:

Block to the sway bar mount:

Then my uncle fabbed up some brackets to mount the transmission cooler:

Then once the holes were all drilled in the core support we mounted it in there and hooked up the lines in series:

After that was putting the grill back in again and it is buttoned up until I get the PCM back and we can start it and fill the AC and top off the coolant and transmission fluid.

The only other thing I am probably going to do in the meantime is buy an Odyssey battery for the truck for a couple reasons, first is the battery in the truck is the factory battery which is a 6 year battery and it is now 6 years old and second to rule out that maybe being the reason that it fried the ECU.

 

[Mordis]

Since I haven't updated this in awhile figured i'd throw something in here.

I did get my new battery installed.

Since I have been asked a couple times here are the Parts for the Thermostat and Trans. cooler in the last post:
Thermostat: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-6368
Trans. Cooler: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-6315/overview/

As far as my ECM issue it still isn't running. I had a loaner PCM that had passlock disabled and the truck did run except that PCM was giving RAM errors which holds the fuel trim tables when it is running and it was running Rich on both banks cause the Trim tables were not loading. So I bought a new PCM and loaded it and it will run for 2 min then it shuts off and I get Service Traction Control, Service Stability Control. When i check codes I get U0100 that can't be cleared. I have Ohmed out the Data Link and there is 0.1 Ohms of resistance which is well within spec, so the only thing I can figure is the 30 minute Passlock relearn is not working or the BCM is shot. I have a Tech II on the way so I can actually test modules to try and find where the issue lies.

 

[Mordis]

Another update with the electrical on my truck..

I got the Tech II and went in and was able to communicate with everything on the network (all modules, ECU, TCM, FPCM, etc.) I cleared the codes in every module to start fresh then just left the key on for about 10 min to see if any codes were generated and there were none. So I started the truck and it ran for it's normal ~2 min then it shut off again I checked every module and all of them had a code saying that they lost communication with the ECU and the ECU was not commable with the Tech II at all. I waited about 1 min with the key still on and then the ECU came back on the network and was able to talk with it via the Tech II with no problems and it had no new DTC's other than the Crank Position code due to it being a new ECU, so that DTC is expected.

Now here is the kicker since the ECU fried I had a loaner ECU from James that did the same thing as my new one that I bought from the dealer. I do have another loaner here from James that when I put that one in the truck will stay running for more than 2 min but that ECU gives a DTC of P0604: Internal Control RAM Error

So we have checked all of the data links for the high speed bus on the truck and highest about of Ohm's we had was Ω0.4 which next to nothing. So we went looking for devices that would cause the original ECU to get toasted and the current ECU to get knocked offline for ~1 min. so we started with coils. I pulled all 8 coils off of truck and using the ground pin of the 4 pin connector we checked the other three pins and took a reading and all 8 read about the same then we checked where the plug wire plugs in and all 8 were the same then we looked at the coil and the two bolt holes have a metal sleeve in them and we put a probe on one and the other one on the other bolt hole and 6 of the coils read less than Ω0.5 however 2 of them when we put the probes on the bolt holes started at around Ω100 and kept climbing from there. So at this point I'm going to replace those two coils with two new ACDelco coils and test again and see what happens. If that doesn't fix we'll look at injectors since those all came with the supercharger.

Timeline to help keep it all straight:
-September '17: Got the truck back together it ran for 1.5 days and toasted the ECU (P0600)
-Sent the ECU to James he said it was toasted and was going to get remaned
-James sent a loaner and it would start and run but shut off after ~2min. At that time we assumed it might be a Passlock problem.
-Sent the loaner back to James
-Added extra grounds from the fenders to the block & block to frame.
-James got the reman back but it had issues so he sent it back to get redone again.
-He sent another loaner this time but vin was corrupted in it when looking at it in HP Tuners and then found this out: https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?28327-E38-E67-Full-flashing-warning
-James sent another loaner ECU/TCM (which I still have) and they truck will run with that loaner but I get DTC P0604: Internal Control RAM Error with that ECU.
-So in the interest of time I just bought a new one from the dealer.
-Sent that one to James and he flashed it and sent it back and was doing what is described above.
-Got the Tech II and found it was dropping off the network with no DTC's as to why and then discovered the potential Coil issue.

So that's where we are at the moment, I'm hoping the coil's are the issue but I'm not holding my breath about it.

 

[Mordis]

Well it's finally running again, for longer than 2 min at a time. So like I said in the last post I bought a new ECU and sent it to James. James worked on it and sent it back and I installed it and have been having the shut off issue since.

So after checking Grounds, Data Links, Coils, Injectors, ECU/TCM/FPCM connections and so on. I called my uncle who has a buddy that works a GM dealer and he has the laptop version of a Tech 2 as well as a TIS2Web subscription and come to find out the ECU was not programmed it had no VIN and had the wrong security keys in the ECU for my truck.

I was under the assumption that James flashed the PCM but it was blank so my buddy flashed the ECU, BCM & FPCM just to be sure so now the truck runs again on the Factory tune and we'll have to go back in and set the Cam tables, Fuel Tables & 3 Bar MAP etc.

All in all I'm just happy as hell it runs again since it has been 4.5 months of running 2 min at a time.

 

[Mordis]

Hey all,

Back again and finally got the truck on the Dyno, it made 421 HP & 382 TQ Here is the Graph of the best run:

It only made 4.5 lbs. of Boost with the stock 3.0" pulley so I think a 2.9" could get it where it should be ~5.5 to 6 lbs. and with that it probably could easily hit 450HP.

Will probably drive it for the summer the way it is and work some more on it in the Fall, But anyway here is the Video. Enjoy

 

[Supermodulation]

Congrats! Spot on Making good numbers.

 

[Mordis]

Congrats! Spot on Making good numbers.

Thank You, Also Thank You for all the help with the issues I had.

 

[FrEaK_aCcIdEnT]

I'm digging that flat TQ line.

 

[YETI]

What sort of coolant temps have you been seeing when driving it around with the trans cooler and heat exchanger in front of the radiator? Also, where did you get your 180 degree thermostat? Glad to see you got your computer issues figured out. There is nothing more frustrating than that lol.

 

[Mordis]

What sort of coolant temps have you been seeing when driving it around with the trans cooler and heat exchanger in front of the radiator? Also, where did you get your 180 degree thermostat? Glad to see you got your computer issues figured out. There is nothing more frustrating than that lol.

Temps have been ~185 F, my trans cooler is kind of behind the bumper on a 45 degree angle so it doesn't really affect the coolant temps much. I should get a better pic of what I'm talking about at some point..

The thermostat I put in is https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-6368 but from what I have heard they can be hit or miss, that's why I tested it before putting it in and 185 seems about right since testing showed it opening at 180 in the water pot test.

And yeah I hope all the ECU issues are in the past.