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Discussion Starter #121
Small update since I haven't really posted anything.

The PCV valve I put in ended up coming apart cause it's plastic.. on a trip up north and the plunger and spring inside ended up on the freeway somewhere I ended up temp gluing it back together temporarily until I could get a new one which was annoying because it was dumping oil into the catch can and I would have to stop and empty it every 45 min. of driving cause it would fill up. I got another PCV Valve and added some extra glue around where it was pressed together and did another trip up north and only got about 2.5oz of oil in catch can in 400 miles of towing which is about where it should be.

Because of the oil control problem It ended up fouling the plugs pretty bad so it gave me an excuse to take the NGK TR7's out cause they were too cold anyway and put the TR6's in, I also did a BG intake treatment to the engine to get any excess carbon/oil out of the supercharger and cylinders.

The other issue I had was with the Thermostat I put in, It worked fine however the rubber seal that seals the housing shrunk up and ended up leaking so I had to take it out and put the stock thermostat back in for now until I can find something that opens at the temp I want and will actually stay sealed.
 

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Just came across this thread. Our trucks are oddly similar lol. I don't work at CTC anymore but if I'm ever in the Auburn Hills area in the Colorado you can expect me to give you a run for your money ;)
 

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SLP sells T-Stats that fit our trucks.
How did you work out the VVT tables ?
I think mine are off from the Comp
phazer kit install.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Just came across this thread. Our trucks are oddly similar lol. I don't work at CTC anymore but if I'm ever in the Auburn Hills area in the Colorado you can expect me to give you a run for your money ;)
Hey Smoke, yeah I've seen your thread as well and it is some nice work. Sounds like a plan however I hardly drive it so finding me out and about might be the biggest problem :D

SLP sells T-Stats that fit our trucks.
How did you work out the VVT tables ?
I think mine are off from the Comp
phazer kit install.
Thanks Al, I'll look into SLP and as far as VVT we did add some timing in on the Dyno but it ended up making less power due to the GM phasers being too slow to react so at the moment the tables are at 0 across the board and in hindsight I should have put a 3 bolt cam in but I ain't taking it apart again unless it breaks and if it does I'll probably build a 6.2 or 416 depending how far I want to take it.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Ok so been awhile since i've done much to the truck so here's a little update.

Ever since I put the cam in when I measured push rod length evreything I found on the "internet" said that preload should be .050 well that was wrong for my application for my engine it was suggested to be at least .070 of preload. Katech made a video on the subject here:
ever since I had them in I had two lifters that would tap while cold. So the length that I had in there were 7.200" and I changed them out to 7.225 and the tapping is gone.

So on to a few pics:

Coils undone.


Coils off.



Valve cover off.


Rockers off of number 1.


Didn't really take many pics after that since it's all rinse and repeat at this point. All of the rockers looked fine and all of the CHE bushings were showing no signs of wear and all of the valve tips still looked new.

Next we moved on to the brakes, They were still working fine but the Hawk Pads being a racing compound were dusty as hell. So I took all of the Hawk pads out and cleaned up the rotors then installed new PFC street compound pads. Didn't take too many pics of the process since it was just a brake job but here are a few.

Here are the part numbers for the front and rears.


Old Hawk fronts.


Old Hawk rears.


And last I installed the Aeroforce gauge that i've had for a bit.



And here is something that will be upcoming in the future.

 

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Discussion Starter #126
Small update, Had a crack randomly appear on the drivers door panel by the A pillar. It's been there for about a month now and hasn't gotten any worse gotta figure out what I want to do to fix it... in other news I've been collecting parts for a rear end upgrade, Pics will be coming when ever start the project. Hopefully that will be soon.



 

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Discussion Starter #128
Do you have window tint? Wondering if that's something I will have to watch for or not. Almost like UV damage weakening it so it cracked.
I do have tint, I got it installed right after I got the truck in '15 but it spent the first fist four years without it so who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
That's a weird place for a crack to form. It sucks that it is in such a noticeable spot too. I'd be curious to see if there's anything under crack that may have stressed it.

Unfortunately, I can't think of any great way to fix it other than replacing the door panel.
I agree, when I first seen it I was like how the hell does it crack there? But yeah I'm most likely going to look for a new panel because any kind of plastic/epoxy fix will probably still be noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter #133 (Edited)
Hey all, Got some time to do some minor things to the truck so here we go..

First pic is the before with the damaged insulation blanket and all from the thrown belt awhile back.


Next I drove down to the dealer and picked up my new hood and then installed it, didn't get any pics of the install but here it is without the gas shocks installed.


Gas Shocks installed.


Next these are the DRL covers from Badland I didn't really care how they were fitting so here was what they looked like as they were shipped.


And of course the ugly.


Cardboard template.


Transferred to metal.


After a lot of cutting and grinding.


Comparison of modified and unmodified.


Hole drilled for the speed nut.


In Place with the speed nut and screw.


Fresh coat of paint and installed.


Right Side.


Both done.


Next up was the god damn re-circulation door that I have replaced 3 times now because it keeps breaking teeth off of the gear inside.

Glove box and XM box out of the way.


Location of the motor.


Old motor.



Broken tooth yet again..
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Posts can I guess only have 20 pics now so here is the rest of today's project.

And last project was the new drivers door panel.

The reason for replacing it, the crack as mentioned before and the fabric separation that has been there since I bought the truck.



Handle trim ring and control panel out.


Old panel off.


New panel on.


Done.


For reference here is the backside of the old panel, no real obvious reason the crack.


And finally the new hood.
 
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