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so try to keep this on point, first off everything is done meow, trucks running and driving. have over 2500 street miles on it and took it to the track the other day to start ironing out the launch stuff, suspension, etc. street vs strip is a whole new world lol. anywho...watched a bunch of sloppy mechanic videos and got an itch. had a 2000 FRC corvette that i built, blew up, rebuilt, etc and got tired of corvette tax every time i needed a part, so why not build something easier to work on, fun, cheap, etc. if you want to skip to the fun, ill load pics later from home but theres a youtube video link at bottom that has a walkaround before i got charge pipes welded up.

so buddy had two Alabama service truck Colorado's sitting in the woods of his place approx. 3 hrs away from me he bought at auction a few years prior with good titles. picked them up for a steal and man they were dirty and moldy. lots of scrubbing and they looked better. now to the goods, plan originally was to build two trucks. one 4.8l with a LSA or smaller frame turbski, then other with a lq4 and big boi snail. well i bought the big boi turbo and already had the 4.8l so we started mounting and fabbing everything with what we had handy to get rolling while i shopped for the 6.0l. well just like most of you have found doing this stuff, things change! never got a good deal on the lq4(well until after the build was done) so its now a 2006 4.8l with a giant Vsracing S480 billet turbo. that's a 88/96 T6 frame turbo. this is mated to a 4l80e trans that we did the HD2 trans shift kit to as well as a Sonnex overrun valve kit. incase your curious as to what that is. the 4l80e has a weak point not discussed much, which is when manually commanding 1,2,3 gear it runs that gears clutch set as well as the overrun clutches. if you switch to 4th/drive gear it only runs the 4 gear clutches. what this means is doing burnouts in drive or doing a WOT pull into 4th runs the risk of smoking this turd and needing a rebuild. the sonnex overrun valve fixes that were it always runs the overrun clutches and you can just beat the piss out of it!

rear end i did the traditional ford 8.8 which i narrowed the long side and installed a short axle, re welded new perches onto, welded the tubes to the pumpkin sense they are just press fit from factory. using stock 100k mile shocks in the rear still and added clatrac low profile traction bars. wheels in rear are cheap eBay vision 15x8 wheels with nitto 555r 275/60-15 tires (wanted drag radial but cheapest option during build stage, we def need a better tire meow haha). trans mount i made myself, cut out the oem cross member sense it hangs low anyways, welded two tabs/ears on either side of the frame, used steel tube and made a new cross member that single bolt sandwiches the ears and tube on either end. allowing me to drop out the cross member very easily. also lowered the truck using bellteck 3" drop leafs out back and adjustable struts up front for a 2/3 drop without blocks etc.

motor mods were short and simple, tear into it to degrease it and clean it. gapped the rings for boost(only half of them needed touched even due to 180k well beaten miles lol) left rods and mains alone. installed sloppy stage 2 cam, PAC 1218 springs. couple new gaskets on oil pan and valve covers, new tbss/nbss intake manifold with new gaskets and done. stock head gaskets, head bolts, etc etc. just cause i want to drive others crazy(it gives my best friend anxiety knowing I'm pushing boost with stock head gaskets lol).

fuel system consists of dual walbro 450s dropping into the oem tank using a corvette aeromotive fuel hat my buddy gave me that fits the oem tank perfectly once you remove the a1000 pump(who knew right?!). these are wired via relay using stupid fat gauge copper wire direct feed off alternator so they get true voltage. then runs up single 10AN feed line through filter, Y into two 10an lines to the back of each Fasser rail(one of the only aftermarket rails for the nbss intake) then uses Snake Eater Performance 150lb injectors. comes forward and both lines go back together in the magnafuel regulator. driverside line also has a T that feed the nitrous solenoid. then single 6an line leaves, goes through composition sensor then back to tank.

turbo and cooling is a oem v8 Colorado driveside manifold i bought new for $68 off one of the parts warehouses, build my own 2.5" crossover(which may get redone to a 2" to aid velocity of exhaust and speed spool) this feeds into the back of a Fahler speed and performance cast manifold on pass side, used a t4-t6 adapter plate then dropped my VSracing s480 turbo on top, which has a 60mm gate welded to the exhaust side, then made a 5" up-pipe and merged the gate to it. all of this is coated in a ultra high temp Cerakote silver then heat wrapped where possible(didn't due headers as cast doesn't like heat wrap, holds moisture and cracks them) welded into the pipe i have one narrow band oem O2 and one AEM wideband o2. cooling is done via a ebay dual pass 3 core radiator that i fit some 10" mishimoto race line fans too......let me take a second to mention, these replaced derale fans that weren't doing the job. these mishimotos flow 1600 cfm each, and it usually only takes one 10" fan to keep this truck cool in 95 degree florida heat! also to mention for cooling, trans has a derale 16 pass cooler mounted under the pass seat area of cab with a large 12" fan on it.

other mods include PT cruiser seats i got for $50 that recline and have armrests...plus pass folds flat with a tray for tuning table lol. floor shifter installed. trans temp, oil pressure, wideband, and aem truboost gauges installed with a Samsung tablet as well wired in for Bluetooth gauge set. using racedash currently for speedo, tach, gear, temp, etc. has led headlights, big ol 12an pvc lines going to baffled catch can, nitrous plate kit pilled for a 50 shot but not even filled yet other than to test noids and purge. cross drilled and slotted rotors all around. wiring is a oem 2006 express van ecu and harness i modified drastically using lt1swap.com info and pinouts, removed all epa crap, inserted nitrous wiring into harness, wideband, etc etc. took three revisions to get it where i liked it and once complete...the next week holley dropped the terminator X....fml right. that's how it goes sometimes.

wheres it at meow?! well getting tuning ironed out, yes I'm doing that myself too. first time lol. shes on full E85 fuel, which i don't have close local. we drive 1.5hr to panama city beach to load up on pump E then back. FYI a 55 gal drum will fit in the back of a 2007-14 Yukon with approx. 1 inch to spare between top of drum and headliner. hasn't been dynod but should be in the 700whp range. first track outing with horrible 2.2 '60 netted us a 7.1 at 104 in the 1/8th mile. once we can get fuel and timing ironed out not only bottom to spool better/faster but also need to up the top end a few degrees. we should be low/mid 6s in the 8th. on the street shes stupid. 40 mph brake boost and you better hope its dry and warm or just going to be spin city, even on drag radials at 17 psi lol. shes currently 20psi of boost and running 12-13 degrees of timing up top. hoping to be 14-15 degrees when done. need better tires as well, looking to try the M&H racemasters, used the mickeys before and love them, but like to test the m and h. also the only work i have left besides tweaking tune and suspension, i need to make AC lines and id like to redo my cold pipes. i made beautiful pie cuts and got everything lined up but don't have a TIG yet. found a guy to weld them but he only had a ARC welder he uses aluminum rod with, said he could get good welds and drop beads with it.....well he lied, looks like crap. took four times of him going over them to fix the leaks and 5 weeks of back and forth. then i still had issues. they are ugly as hell but they hold air for meow lol.

heres a video of walkaround i did in my little messy garage. this was for a buddy needing some input. this was a few months ago, like stated above shes running and racing now.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64jpAyN3LVs&t=175s
 

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Fun stuff, thanks for sharing. Post links to any street driving or parking lot smoke shows! Do you know the part number of the Fahler passenger side manifold you used? Please and thanks if so.

I have a V8 Colorado (4x4), soon to be 6.2L w/6L80, and would love to add a hair dryer to it. Thanks bro. Post more when you can. Thanks for the detail.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no part number, if you go to his page though theres only a few options. i have the V1 cast, hes making a new one thatll have a wastegate boss cast into it. should work out well and give some better options that require less fab.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
that about sums up the pic train, shes still a work in progress. got to get spark and fuel up to spool her and get it to launch a little harder. if we can get out the hole better shell be a mid 6 second 1/8th truck all day without even touching the spray. next step for her after that will be new valve train and studs then 30 psi on E85. any questions post up. have a lot more pics and details etc if anyone needs anything. ~Matt~
 

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Found the manifold and traction bars, thanks. The factory Colorado V8 passenger side manifold exit comes almost straight down as compared to the regular full size truck version which is more of a 45 degree back sweep, of which these Fahler manifolds are modeled for. Did you have any trouble with it or the cross tube hitting the firewall because of this? I am asking Fahler if they can make one with more downturn if I send them my stock manifold as a template.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
mine came back at a near 45 degree angle. clears everything just fine. the driveside i had to trim the "ears" on the frame engine mount a tad, maybe 1/4" at most but that was it exhaust side
 

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Discussion Starter #17
now that i think on it more, if it came down more 90 i think youll have issues hitting starter or frame. mines a decent angle and i have my motor as far back in the engine mounts as they will slide to get it all the way back, push the weight rearward and get me more room in the front. and still that turn down on exhaust is good to go. i had to divet/dent the inner fender for the flange of the manifold on the turbo side. but that's because I'm running a t4 to t6 adapter and a big ass t6 frame turbo. normal t4 or 78/75 type i doubt itd be even needed
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well not that anyones watching in on this...but blew the converter and possibly smoked a clutch within the trans the other night. just pulled it all last night. converters getting sent back to the shop to be inspected and fixed. and guess its time to put that spare trans i bought to good use. still have to inspect it, clean it, install the shift kit and sonnax valve kit on it. but that only took about 4.5 hrs last time. hopefully be back up and running soon!
 

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Ive actually been following! I usually check in on here everyday before i start work haha that sucks man. Hope the spare does well!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
so after more money to the converter people and finally getting it back after 6 weeks for a warrentee job(idk why they take so long) i got it all installed. and now no reverse or neutral. apparently i got a bum trans from the salvage yard. unfortunately i have a job trip coming up very soon and time is very slim at best. so trucks getting torn down. already have trans out, rear end diff removed for upgraded clutches and new bearing etc. same time im removing the ecu and harness plus the nitrous.

on that note, anyone interested in buying a harnes, ecu combo or nitrous system lmk.

on return from the trip ill be rebuilding the trans and installing a real trans brake valve body, going to holley term X, also upgrading to link bar lifter, head gaskets, arp studs. and shooting for 25-30 PSI and 8000 rpm.
 
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