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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know opinions are like assholes, whatever, but I'm in the process of lifting and I've ran into a bit of a sticky situation. First, some background.

I got bit by the lift bug. Most of us have and it all started with a little TB crank up front and it skewed from there. After the TB crank I threw some 2" shackles on the back. Then cranked the front some more. Then I noticed my stock leaf packs were sagged out like a $0.50 hooker. So I slapped a ProComp AAL on and now the back sits higher than the front. Went to crank the front TB's some more, cranked in about three turns and maxxed out.

I'm not concerned about my CV angles, because I DID do a front diff drop to correct most of it. But, my front TB's were maxxed. So in thought of stress on the front end I backed them back off about 4 turns and now I'm driving around with a hotrod rake and stock Z85 wheels and tires. Gosh it looks gay.

I'm buying some rimzos and 31's soon, so I wanted to get all of the lifting/suspension crap done with first. I need some options. I've thought about what can be done and I'm really unsure of what would be best. I'm at a loss, so that's why I'm here to ask the masses and get some knowledgeable insight. My thoughts so far are as follows:

A - Leave the truck alone and hope the rear AAL settles and the rear drops back down about an inch (This would probably happen in about 10 years but I need it now)

B - Crank the front TB's until they're maxxed, get another alignment and call it a day

C - Remove the rear 2" shackles, drill a second set of holes and re-install them with a smaller shackle lift in the rear (Kinda like the Suspension Maxx shackles where you pick what amount of lift you want)

D - Buy new TB's or Suspension Maxx re-indexed keys and re-crank. (I really don't think this will help much because when I maxxed out earlier the UCA was really close to hitting the frame/etc.)

In reality I either need the front to go UP about an inch, or the back to come DOWN about an inch. Oh, and FYI, I installed NEW greaseable upper balljoints and flipped them to the bottom of the UCA also. I don't have a spacer plate, but I did put them on the bottom which may have helped a little bit.
 

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Sorry, I know nothing about lifting, so all I did was skim your post at first. And I was intrigued by your story.

I've ran into a bit of a sticky situation. First, some background.

I got bit by a $0.50 hooker. So I cranked in about three turns and maxxed out.
 

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Do what makes you happy
 

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Boost. Get's you laid.
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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry, I know nothing about lifting, so all I did was skim your post at first. And I was intrigued by your story.
Yeah, she was a bitch. Took my fucking milk money. :(
 

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I feel your pain, been there and done that.

What I ended up doing in your same situation is I removed the AAL and added AirLift helper bags.
That gave me about 2" of adjustable height range to work with. I only needed 1" bag + the 2" shackle.

The norm is to lift the rear first then fine adjust the TB to level.
This method is OK if your stock but for lifting this is backwards.
As you crank the TB's they become stiffer which = less suspension travel = poorer offroading traction.
 

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Don't forget about the max height determined by the hub/fender lip measurement. That's going to be the determining factor related to torsion bar lifting.
The amount of threads on the bolt mean nothing. Bottoming out the bolt means nothing. The key installed means nothing.

Any of those methods are capable of achieving the max lift height with equal results in ride quality and parts wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don't forget about the max height determined by the hub/fender lip measurement. That's going to be the determining factor related to torsion bar lifting.
The amount of threads on the bolt mean nothing. Bottoming out the bolt means nothing. The key installed means nothing.

Any of those methods are capable of achieving the max lift height with equal results in ride quality and parts wear.
Front measurement is about 23 1/2 hub to fender, or it was in my driveway anyway, which is far from dead balls level. Right now I'm thinking either ditching the AAL and doing some Air Lift bags like SuperMod, or taking the lift shacks off, drilling another set of holes and readjusting.

Of course, the redrilled shackles will be cheaper..
 

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I'm "That Guy"
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Get a Rancho kit and some new stock leaf packs for the rear. Then uncrank the front to level. Sell off the AAL to help pay for the new leaf packs.

Not the cheapest route, but the most functional in the long run.
 

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If you haul with it I would ditch the aals and run helper bags, you can get an inch or so of lift from them and still have a nice ride. I run about 20 psi in mine to bring it up to level. I have had about 7,000 lbs behind the truck with over 1,000 of tongue weight and it will still level out
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I don't tow or haul anything. If I adjust my shackles, will that eliminate some of my rear lift? I imagine it would have to..

I don't mind a stiffer ride that cranked TB's and the AAL brings honestly. When your ass is as big as mine, a stagecoach rides like a Cadillac.
 

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You've really only got an inch or less of working room up front.
24" is more ideal, 24.5" probably won't start breaking stuff.

The ride quality is one concern, but safety is another. I'm a tad shy of 24" hub/fender on my Z85. Even at that height I have control issue when driving over rough surfaces. And I have to anticipate my line choice in a curve with bumps because it won't hold a line....it WILL bounce to the outside in a turn once it hits bumps. The front suspension cannot cycle quickly enough to keep the tires secured to the ground. My driving procedure is to cut the curve tight so that when I bounce I don't bounce into the next lane.

It really quite sucks - to be honest.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
There's no way my measurement was accurate then. I drive awful washboarded highways every day and I don't have any control issues when cornering/etc. My truck has always felt planted and solid to me. Literally, I'm comfortable taking corners at 50 mph and not touching the brakes. Maybe I'm just used to driving it though?

The general consensus with everything is I'm maxxed out up front. No if's and's or but's... Either with a measuring tape, or torsion bars, I'm on the edge of everything and lifting the front further is NOT even on the table now. The back is going to HAVE to come down. Now that being said, it appears my options are to ditch the AAL and pop in a set of AirLift bags, or try my redneck shackle idea and cross my fingers that it will help level the rear of the truck.

I don't have anything to lose by drilling another set of holes in my shackles and adjusting them, well, except for a $13 cobalt metal drill bit. If it works, I win. If it does nothing, AirLift bags sans AAL it is. Ideally, adjusting shacks should do something though, right? I mean, afterall, SMaxx shackles are designed this way..
 

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Yes, drilling your shackles will work. Just remember that the amount of lift/lower that you get is not the same as the distance measured on the shackle...It's roughly half iirc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just had my shacks drilled with another set of holes and slapped em on. Dropped the rear a good inch. Now I have a very slight forward rake which is definately better than where it was. I can live with this for now.
 
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