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Discussion Starter #1
I've had trouble for some time to keep my truck cool. Since I'm in Florida and don't have to worry about it getting cold as of now I was wondering if there'd be any negative effects of gutting the housing and let it flow freely. I found the original 180 thermostat that I've ordered but was wondering if I could run it free flowing and then if I needed to swap in the new one.
 

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your truck will stay in open loop mode and your fuel economy will suffer.. engines are designed to run at a certain temp, removing your tstat is a bad idea
 

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I tried that on an engine a number of years ago. It didn't work too well, but I don't remember why I had to reinstall a stat.

Remember the coolant will simply just circulate without a stat an not provide time in the block to heat, or time in the radiator to cool adequately.

The think the reason in the past was that it never warmed sufficiently enough to satisfy the needs of the computer. That was in a 93 F-150 with way older computer technology too.

If you are having enough warming concerns to consider this option, perhaps a good flush at a shop and maybe a replacement radiator should be considered. Any idea if your radiator is clogged enough to disallow sufficient flow back to the engine?
 

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I've ways had trouble keeping it cool to a certain extent. It's not in town driving. It's highway. The v8 radiator from what I've been told isn't much different than the i5. I'm going to pull it all out and spray it off. My thermostat should be here Tuesday. It claims it's the 180 degree one from stant. May try switching coolants and run alittle more water.
 

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If your experiencing over heating problems even after you have replaced the thermostat, I would suspect that either the DexCool to water ratio is wrong. In the warmer climate like your self it should be 6 qts water and 4 qts DexCool (60/40). V8 radiator in a I5, 7 qts water and 5 qts DexCool.

Also most importantly, is the radiator location. The radiator should be mounted level with the engine with the lower air dam. I have seen to many times were after installing body lifts. The engine temps spike to high. That's because the water pump is working harder to push the coolant from the bottom of the radiator to the top then back in to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't have a body lift. My radiator is in stock location. I took the body lift off right before the sas. I may try peak coolant. I'm running their synthetic ATF now.
 

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Mud clogging the cooling fins? Make sure that thing is super clean on both sides.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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How much hotter are we talking?

Our temp sensor is right next to the exhaust(genius I know) but I actually get heat soak in the warmer temperatures around the sensor. I used a laser temp reader and checked my block compared to the sensor in other places and near the exhaust ports it's was close to the sensor reading but the majority of the block was around normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
About 3/4 or alittle over is where it's been riding.
 

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I got bored and installed my power steering cooler. Before I did I undid my condenser and washed it real good. I unbolted my Efan and washed the back of the radiator and then sprayed the front and the back of the condenser. There was some dirt coming out so I'll see how she runs tomorrow when I drive it to work.
 

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Do you still have the lower air scoop installed?

Also, if you still have that monster front bumper on that could have an effect also since it looks like it's blocking off any airflow coming through the lower part. I could be wrong, but it looks like the only air going through the radiator is coming through the grill. After that you're talking airflow dynamics since you have a high pressure area in front of the grill but if there is no low pressure area behind the radiator that will restrict the air from exiting the engine compartment efficiently.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lower scoop is gone cause there's no crossmember for it to hook to. My bumper actually sits lower than the stock one. But there is a winch in its way.
 

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About 2years ago I played a months worth of phone tag with stant out of I ndiana.
I wanted a 160 thermostat for the i-5. It all came down to a production run manager and he killed it. I say do it gway. The guys that make the stats seemed to be all for it.
 

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How about the e-fan? Maybe the motor is either got carbon build up or some crap in the motor from wheeling making it put out less cfm? You could also change the factory temp sensor as well just in case that is reading wrong for some reason. I think they are only $15, I know it was around there when I got a new one.
 

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I've had trouble for some time to keep my truck cool. Since I'm in Florida and don't have to worry about it getting cold as of now I was wondering if there'd be any negative effects of gutting the housing and let it flow freely. I found the original 180 thermostat that I've ordered but was wondering if I could run it free flowing and then if I needed to swap in the new one.
No stat is not a good idea. Too cool or no stat makes for a weak heater and can trigger a CEL......but in Florida, u probably can't spell heater. LOL

U've got to remember, a properly functioning stat does one thing only......determine MINIMUM coolant temp. The rest of the cooling system, it's condition and driving conditions determine maximum coolant temp. A properly functioning stat will not cause overheating.....if the stat is functioning properly, the stat will be wide open at +/-15 degrees above it's rated temp and a wide open stat is essentially the same as no stat, with regard to coolant flow.

Coolant temp has little to nothing to do with "closed loop".....the "loop" closes when the O2 sensor(s) reach operating temp (not coolant temp) and electrically heated O2 sensors reach operating temp less than a minute after motor start-up. Some heated O2 sensors reach operating temp in as little as 8 seconds after motor start-up, thus quickly "closing" the loop. Plugging a scan tool into the ALDL port under the dash will verify how quickly and when the system enters "closed loop". The scan tool will also show u that coolant temp is no where near operating temp when the system enters "closed loop". Another thing the scan tool will tell u is actual coolant temp so that u can verify that your dash temp gauge is not wacked.

The cooling system is a closed system (nothing to do with closed loop). Coolant flowing too quickly/fast thru the rad/motor is an old wives tale/myth. When the stat is wide open, coolant will/should flow as quickly thru the rad/motor as the water pump will push it. If the stat is wide open and overheating occurs, there's something wrong with the cooling system, or there's poor airflow thru the rad or the rad is too small for the driving conditions it's encountering, or a combination. Again, a properly functioning stat will not be the cause of overheating.
 

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Maybe your belt is slipping on your waterpump. My 2000 blazer was doing that and it never got hot just sitting but at highway speed the higher rpms made the belt slip ever so slightly and wasn't flowing like it should. I changed the belt and problem went away. Just a thought.
 

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Gway are you running an efan or stock fan-clutch?? I think you and me are having the exact same problem, and i think ive figured out why (if, your running an efan)

btw, like mentioned here before, i properly running T-stat will never be the cause of overheating, either way going with a 180 t-stat is not a bad move, that is what i have as well. Running no T-stat on these trucks will trigger a code that will eventually cause your A/C to shut-off because the truck thinks its overheating, im saying this from experience.
 

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ive been doing ALOT of reading on various forums and asking around locally to the few i know that have dealt with converting from a fan-clutch to a shrouded efan (on various makes and models), and here is the scoop on this:

At high-way speeds (say, above 45mph) if the shrouded e-fan is kept running (which mine does) it can actually become an airflow restriction, not allowing air to properly flow through the radiator and hence... the higher coolant temp Only when on the high way.

There are two remedies to this issue, one, is figuring out a way for the fan to switch off when hitting the high way, and 2nd adding some vent holes/flaps in the fan shroud to allow the air to properly flow through the radiator when at highway speeds.

next week i will be modifying my fan shroud and report back.
 
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