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2005 Z85 LS Crew I5
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings earthlings.
I'm an old fart that has had a Dodge, AMC, Mercury, 2 Mazdas, Honda, Volvo, 5 Fords, 2 old chevy's and a place of my own, 4 motorcycles, travel &utility trailers, but I digress. I'm not looking to spend my life on this forum. There is an owners forum for every single thing out there and I have living to do before my living is up.

I come here seeking knowledge. I'm curious about performance gains on cat-back systems or do you do resonator or muffler deletes on these things? Same for the resonator box on the intake. I hate most aftermarket CAI's because they don't seal or are overpriced.

Then lowering 2 x 3 or 3 x 4. I found two types for my front coil suspensions: special ball joints or special control arms. Which is preferred? control arms appears to be the way to go.
Other than ride comfort, unsprung weight and cost associated with 235/50-17, anything justify choosing the 235/50-18? I don't need to be cornering at high speeds. I already have a new car for that. I'll be looking for used rims next year unless a deal comes along before then.

I will have the truck next month and will be doing the following immediately: plugs, TB & MAF cleaning, air filter, fuel filter, brake fluid flush, rad flush, steering flush, oil change, etc. Will consider trans pan drop/filter change only (not flush), after I have read up on it more for this specific trans.

Chris
 

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559 Posts
Chris, Welcome to 355Nation. There is lots of post in the GEN1 section of the forum about exhaust mods. Based on what I have read, your exhaust manifold is prone to cracking so maybe check that asap if keeping it. Or go straight to an aftermarket header, delete the catalytic converter (if Virginia doesn't do exhaust inspections), and gut the resonator.
 

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691 Posts
Welcome to the Nation . . .
I went with the short header (JTR), gets rid of the front cat.
I left the second one alone to maintain back pressure.
 

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Registered
2005 Z85 LS Crew I5
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
well, after getting a much better look at the truck (it was my GF's father's truck in Philly, so I didn't do the same exam I normally would) He did buy it new, but let some things go.

It has MASSIVE amounts of frame/suspension rust. Not just surface, I'm talking LAYERS and layers (thick flakes).

The rear leaf springs are sagging in the W shape. It needs shocks badly...it bounces badly over dips, speed bumps and such. If I can easily replace them, I'll do it. I'm just concerned about the rust being an issue.

There is a power steering leak somewhere near the rack. Hopefully it's just a hose or loose hose (haa, right).

There appears to be a driveshaft seal leak? idk, I just glanced at it while I was under it.

It needs the parking brake foot lever and cable.

Right passenger window control, cruise and fan is finicky bc he was a heavy smoker. (it's not the resistor bc it stayed on 1, 2 or 3 after rotating the switch back and forth a lot. I'll spray contact cleaner in them.

I already flipped and replaced the 3rd brake light gasket after cutting the plastic down. The light assembly is bowed. I also pulled the body metal outward in the middle section slightly.

It runs better after I replaced the air filter, spark plugs and cleaned the MAF & TB. A/T is smooth. I still need to replace the belt and ordering it right now. No DCT codes.

I need to flush the brakes as the fluid is practically black.

I'll do a few more "minimal" things and decide if I'll sell it, wait a year and then get something newer to replace my Mazda 5 micro van/suv/truck/trailer hauler...
 

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Welcome to the Nation . . .
Rust can be a real issue. Do some serious looking at the frame before you go too far with it.
 

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2005 Z85 LS Crew I5
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'm already too far...lol

I had to replace the Belt Tension pulley; it was up against the block. I changed the rear shocks and after surveying the strut thread status, I am replacing the front struts this weekend. The only thing that leaves is the leaking steering rack. I'd rather not have to do that...I have other things around the house that need my time and money. However, it is an inspection item, as is the frame itself.

the full list of items I replaced/performed is now:
air, oil and fuel filters
cleaned MAF sensor and TB
spark plugs, iridium
rear shocks, front struts
drive belt and tension pulley
3rd brake light gasket
Parking brake pedal/cable assy, release cable and equalizer nut
Polishing headlight plastic

8. – INSPECT STEERING & SUSPENSION FOR:
(Jack up front end as shown in “Official Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Manual”.)
  • Wear in bushings, kingpins, ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rod ends.
  • Looseness of gear box on frame, condition of drag link and steering arm.
  • Play in steering wheel; leakage of power steering fluid in the system.
  • Wheel alignment and axle alignment.
  • Broken coil springs, spring leaves and worn shackles.
  • Shock absorbers.
  • Broken or weakened frame.
 
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