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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know the oil change question has been done to death, and I'm not looking for opinions or suggestions.

I changed the oil in my truck a little over 12 months ago. I used Mobile 1 synthetic and a Bosch extended performance filter. OLM hasn't griped yet, but based on my driving habits I am not going to go much over a year before changing it. I don't drive my truck all that much, and in fact have only put around 940 miles on it since the oil change. Most of that involved short trips (I don't live far from work) which I know falls under "Severe" service.

The oil looks fine still . . . very clean, in fact. It "feels" the same between my fingers as a drop of new, unused oil does. I know that's not a real scientific test, but it makes me wonder. What I've decided to do is change the oil on my yearly schedule, but I am saving some of the old oil to send off to have tested. I'm just curious as to what a test would reveal about the oil's viability. I might even wait a while (might have to, money is tight right now . . . which is why I'm thinking about oil life to begin with) and let the oil "stew in it's own juices" for a while longer. I know the presence of combustion by-products and other engine contaminants are what mainly brings time into the question to begin with.

I do have a few questions . . . Is there a better place then Blackstone Labs for an oil test? Has anyone done such a test on low mileage synthetic oil with a years worth of service?
 

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Pretty much all the labs are going to be similar. I think the more important aspect is using the same lab for each of the tests so the testing method stays consistent.

Also, if you have some of the original oil left you might want to think about sending in a sample of that. That way they can use the original oil as a reference starting point which will give you a better testing result.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you. I wish I did have some of the original oil left. I have a quart I acquired a few months after the fact, though, of the same oil.

Just irks me the oil looks so . . . fresh! lol
 

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The issue with motor oil is that over time it will absorb and trap moisture unless the engine is run at temperature for a prolonged period of time, in which case it will blow said moisture out the exhaust.

That's why M1 only says 1 year on the Extended 15k Mile Syn.
 

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Glad Goros posted that.

I'd cringe if I left oil in my pan for a year to collect all of that moisture. I drive less than 10,000 a year, probably about 7. I have zero piece of mine going a hear on mine. It's damp, cool and rainy during the winter months, and 100+ is the summer. For me, that is a big climate change for one batch of oil. I've never had my oil tested so I can't say my theory is anything more than a theory. But if I drove 900 miles a year I'd be using much cheaper oil than full synthetic.

Again, no scientific proof to support my thoughts but I am personally afraid of the moisture content in the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
But you drove 940 miles on synthetic did you honestly think it would be bad be then? Go by miles not years
That's just it . . . I don't know. Based on my research, nothing I have seen suggests waiting over a year to change oil, regardless of mileage, is a good idea. I'm not wanting to take a risk of premature wear to my engine to save money, even with cash scarce right now. The vast majority of opinions I have found suggest not waiting over 6 months with conventional oil, and not over a year for synthetic. To remove all doubt, I am going to go with the consensus and change it now, but send some of the old oil off to be tested. Then I can make an informed decision about OCI based on my useage and my particular vehicle's quirks.

The issue with motor oil is that over time it will absorb and trap moisture unless the engine is run at temperature for a prolonged period of time, in which case it will blow said moisture out the exhaust.
That's why M1 only says 1 year on the Extended 15k Mile Syn.
This is what my research has shown - moisture, and combustion by-products that can cause oil to break down over time. Most of my driving is in-town, short distance trips . . . I often get the "milkshake" on my oil cap in the winter months, and I will sometimes drive farther than I have to, just to get the engine up to operating temps. I hate to change such low mileage oil, but as an oil change with synthetic just costs $60.00, I consider it cheap insurance to at least change it every year. But armed with my future results from Blackstone I may extend (or shorten) my OCI schedule.


Can you post a part number please if you have it?
No, I don't have the part number . . . I tried looking it up and I think what I actually have is a Bosch Distance-Plus oil filter. I just bought a Moble 1 Extended Performance filter, which is where I must have gotten the "extended performance" misinformation. Sorry about that.
 

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I think engine wear is the least of your concern with 900 miles a year. :)

If you go with a 6 month conventional or 1 year synthetic, what's the difference in cost. Most will say change the oil filter in the middle. So the cost of oil and 2 filters once a year for synthetic or the cost of double oil and 2 filters per year. Probably not even worth consideration. And the cost of $40 or $80 a year can be saved in other ways. The point being, taking care of the engine is important. Contamination I think will haunt your engine before engine wear will. IN my OPINION.

I think you money isn't being well spent if you're dumping $60 in high quality oil into an engine that doesn't get used and is also showing signs of moisture buildup. You will probably be further ahead to dump out cheap oil 2 or 3 times a year than using 'good' oil that goes bad.

It's like buying bulk food at Costco because it's cheap then having to eat soggy and browned broccoli. But only because the kitchen started to smell because you've had it in the fridge too long.

Seriously, think about it. You used top quality oil to allow it to sit and get contaminated.
 

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Just my opinion: As has been mentioned, the concern would probably be the moisture in the engine that is not burned off regularly. $60 for an oil change is a bit steep. I change the oil in my Daughter's Trailblazer, 4.2 Atlas, 7 Quarts Mobil 1 with ACDelco filter) for $32.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Good points all.

Cost would have been around $45 if I hadn't opted to buy a Mobile one filter. I'd have waited on the filter, and still might, but I had a store credit card for the amount. I'd bought some stuff I hadn't needed and forgot to take it back . . . they couldn't credit my card for the amount, but gave me a store card. I maxed it out, lol.

I prefer using the synthetic. Conventional Mobile would be around $32, so the extra 13 bucks is worth it to me.

I may not always drive just 940 miles a year . . . my mileage changes as my situation changes. Right now, I live just a mile from work. I often just walk.

Thanks for all the responses. I appreciate it. :)
 

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Good points all.

Cost would have been around $45 if I hadn't opted to buy a Mobile one filter. I'd have waited on the filter, and still might, but I had a store credit card for the amount. I'd bought some stuff I hadn't needed and forgot to take it back . . . they couldn't credit my card for the amount, but gave me a store card. I maxed it out, lol.

I prefer using the synthetic. Conventional Mobile 1 would be around $32, so the extra 13 bucks is worth it to me.

I may not always drive just 940 miles a year . . . my mileage changes as my situation changes. Right now, I live just a mile from work. I often just walk.

Thanks for all the responses. I appreciate it. :)
Mobil 1 conventional oil? Damn! I learn something new every day.
 

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I know your thought process. But the extra $13 isn't even being put to use.

Send in a sample to have it tested. Moisture induced synthetic oil is no better than fresh conventional oil.

If it tests out fine, then keep doing what you're doing. The more moisture in your oil the worse it is. Plus your engine will show signs of rusting from the inside out.

Otherwise, seems like the answers are clear -you plan to keep doing what you're doing...
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Mobil 1 conventional oil? Damn! I learn something new every day.
lol - Right, sorry. I meant just Mobile oil, not Mobile 1. My spell check seems to think there is no other "mobile" than "Mobile 1" . . .

Otherwise, seems like the answers are clear -you plan to keep doing what you're doing...
Pretty much, yes . . . but a lot depends on the results of the lab test. I'll adjust the schedule based on that and my future driving habits. The oil feels and looks normal to me, not milky or cloudy in any way. I know these are not valid tests by any means, and I have no doubt there is moisture in the oil, based on what I've read, but I was willing to risk it for this first go around on oil changes. I've ordered my kit from Blackstone, and I'll post to this thread with the results.

I appreciate all the input. This forum rocks!
 

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lol - Right, sorry. I meant just Mobile oil, not Mobile 1. My spell check seems to think there is no other "mobile" than "Mobile 1" . . .



Pretty much, yes . . . but a lot depends on the results of the lab test. I'll adjust the schedule based on that and my future driving habits. The oil feels and looks normal to me, not milky or cloudy in any way. I know these are not valid tests by any means, and I have no doubt there is moisture in the oil, based on what I've read, but I was willing to risk it for this first go around on oil changes. I've ordered my kit from Blackstone, and I'll post to this thread with the results.

I appreciate all the input. This forum rocks!
So wait a minute. When did you make the mistake by saying what oil you have? Do you have synthetic, or conventional? Mobile oil or Mobile 1....
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
So wait a minute. When did you make the mistake by saying what oil you have? Do you have synthetic, or conventional? Mobile oil or Mobile 1....
cart7881 quoted it in post #12. I'm not sure what it is you are asking . . . ?

To summarize: I have Mobile 1 synthetic oil in my truck, which I put in a year ago as my first oil change after buying the truck. I have purchased Mobile 1 synthetic oil to put back in the truck as my second oil change since buying the truck.

08Canyon referenced cost difference between Mobile 1 synthetic oil, and conventional oil. I replied with the fact that conventional Mobile oil was just $13.00 cheaper, but I mistakenly wrote "Mobile 1 conventional oil" when I should have just said "Mobile conventional oil" . . . cart7881 and Goros pointed this out to me, and I corrected the error in my post.

Does that clear it up?
 

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Referring back to your first post. There may be a better place than Blackstone to get your oil changed, but any recommendation would only be an opinion. Blackstone is usually the choice for most anyone I know. I haven't heard of anyone specifically sending low mileage/high time oil for analysis. I would suggest contacting Blackstone to see what their suggestion would be.

Oil analysis was developed as a means of tracking wear patterns over a period of time and to be effective the oil should be tested at each change. It can be effective for a one time test to detect contaminants such as antifreeze.

For oil change intervals, it would probably be a good idea to follow the Owner's Manual guidelines.
 

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Cool. Thanks for the update.
Your comment that said something about your spell checking making the correction for you lead me to believe that it could have always been written in error, from the beginning.

Good luck with the test results.
 
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