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the guy that always on
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Discussion Starter #1
2006 cany 2.8 auto 2wd


I've been having some consumption issues. Every 1000 miles or so ( haven't watched exact miles) my oil is down around a quart. I use Mobil 1 synthetic. Oil changed with the dash light which iirc is 8000 mi. Coolant is clean, Changed recently with water pump. Was clean when changed. Occasionally have the oil milkshake on the stick after short trips but that's common. Idk what to do. Consumption isn't normal and I wanna fix this. Anyone have Any ideas on things to check?
 

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the guy that always on
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Discussion Starter #3
It's at 112000. I've never noticed any smoke. I Do have an intermittent check engine for p0017. I replaced the ecas and the light came back on and I haven't had the time or money to deal with it.
 

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I have a consumption issue too. I've only had my Canyon (3.5L) for 7 months, but I bought it with an occasional smoking on startup issue. Trips over a half hour or so, I'll get back into the truck, start it up and poof....GIANT white cloud of smoke. Like...smokey burnout giant. It wasn't until several months later, when my engine was ticking louder and louder, then my oil light started to come on going around corners, when I checked the oil level.....it took 3 quarts to get it back to where it needed to be!

I talked to a friend who's a master GM technician at a Chevy dealer, and another one who's a master GM technician at a Buick/GMC dealer, BOTH said just to drive the wheels off it and worry about it when it breaks. lol Said it's likely in the head (valve guide seals?), but head jobs are such a pain in the ass on these trucks, they wouldn't recommend messing with it, so I'll just keep adding oil as needed.

I'm like you though, something is wrong and it irritates me that my truck isn't 100%. I'll just replace the motor when it finally gives, which may be sooner than later since I'm almost to 170K!
 

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Chevy's are known for bad valve guide seals
 

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its the cam shaft actuator on the exhaust cam giving you the code. not the solenoid i have the same issue been having it for 20k miles. im going to replace the sprocket in next couple months hopefully and rid myself of the P0017 code ive had since 50k miles while im now at 108K + just keep adding oil im always 2.5qts low at around 25-2800 miles.
 

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the guy that always on
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Discussion Starter #12
So if it's leaking down thru the valves would replacing the valve stem seals help? My uncle used to be the best machinest in southern New Mexico and he know his way very well around a head. He taught me the process to rebuild a head and if that's the issue it looks like I may have a big project ahead of me
 

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US Army 19yrs and ......
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I go through about a .5 quart every 3000 miles.

One my last oil change I used my normal 5 qts of Royal Purple 5w 30 and a quart of Hyper Lube. The motor is quieter, easier start up and i haven't lost any oil yet. NOTE:I have no leaks or smoke at all.......so its a safe assumption that my oil loss is just normal consumption via blow by.



I also use their coolant treatment too



When I drained my radiator to install my :supermod: efan the inside of the radiator was nice and clean with no corrosion or build up ........I was supper happy considering I'm still on the original OEM radiator from 2004
 

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My '05 3.5L doesn't burn a drop at 136K.
I'm using NAPA Gold (Wix) filters with a full synthetic, so I usually go 5-6K between changes.
I've never seen the level drop enough to be noticable on the stick at all.
Just lucky there I guess..
 

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US Army 19yrs and ......
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The factory/manufacturer will not look at a vehicle under warranty if it is not at least 1 quart per 1000 miles. That to say if you don't have a physical external leak. About Chevy valve guide seals Not sure about the Colorado since it is over head cam but the small block had 2 issues. The little rubber o ring that the used for a seal sucked. Later they went to a real seal. The other issue was the valve angle in the head. The rocker pushed the valve open at an angle causing valve guide wear. Maybe some of the guys who have taken their heads apart would comment about seals.
 

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How much does a new head cost ? mite be cheaper to just throw one on
instead of rebuilding yours, plus a quick turn around to get back on the road.
or maybe one that's already rebuilt.
 

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How much does a new head cost ? mite be cheaper to just throw one on
instead of rebuilding yours, plus a quick turn around to get back on the road.
or maybe one that's already rebuilt.
This seems smart.
 

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the guy that always on
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Discussion Starter #19
Honestly it was just a thought cause I enjoy doing my own work and I know how. The head is expensive if I remember correctly. Like $600 from rock auto. At that price I'll drop a 3.7 or a 5.3 in way before I put that much money into a 4. The only way I'm dropping that kind of money on a 4 is if it's to go snail. My thought process is labor is what makes those jobs hella expensive. I told my fiance that if I couldn't figure it out I was either gonna swap or find a crew
 

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the guy that always on
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Discussion Starter #20
Ok I forgot about the vvt I have no clue about that I started adding up parts and the internal for the head are cheap as hell untill you get to all the stuff for vvt. It just bugs the hell out of me that my truck is loosing oil and I can't figure out where
 
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