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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just installed some new wheels. 16x8 -11 offset with 265/75r16 Destination AT2 tires. The right side rubs more than the left. I have the Badlands lift kit, but can't finish the install because the shackle bolts are siezed in the bushings. I have new leaf spring bushings and bolts ordered, just waiting for them to arrive. So far I have installed the keys and flipped the brand new moog ball joints with the spacers. Mild crank on the bars to level the truck and I have very minor rub on the left, and considerably more rubbing on the right. Any ideas? Possible control arm bushings?
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You have to have that thing cranked up more for those tires unless you want a rub. The other option is trim it. I have 3.25 inches of lift and I still rubbed until i started trimming stuff, running 32/11.50/15 tires on 15x10 wheels with a -45 offset. Your truck still looks stock in the picture, like you put no lift in it just bigger tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The tires are actually the stock size according to the placard in the doorjam. Of course the -11 offset makes a difference. The rest of the lift will be compete soon. Once it is I have a set of 285/75r16 tires for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any ideas why the right rubs more? The truck is even height at all 4 corners.

I am going to crank it a little more today, just don't want the front end up higher than the back.
 

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Could rub more because the right side bar is weaker and sags more under weight, could have to do with the alignment and the caster settings on that side. Could be worn out Control Arm Bushings. There are a plethora of things that can contribute.
 

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When you say mild crank on bars to level the truck are you speaking of matching the front to the rear oem height? You said lifts not complete so I would wait until you have it completed and see how it rubs. I have 4" skyjacker suspension and 1.5" body w/ 285/70 17s and it almost rubs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, I cranked the bars up enough after installing the new keys to match the front height to the rear.

I've read multiple times that the Badlands lift kit should allow me to clear 33s. With how much lift you have it makes me wonder if I will be able to clear the 285/75r16 tires I have waiting. They measure 33x11.
 

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I recently replaced my leaf spring shackles. Amazon $12. I had to loosen the bolts just enough to get a sawsall blade between the head of the bolt and the shackle itself. Cut the bolt heads off, drove the bolts in a little bit and put the blade between the shackle and the nut and cut that end off too. Threw all that crap in the trash and put on new shackles, bushings and bolts and eliminated the rear end sway I was getting in turns. I have 33's on my '04 4x4 extended cab with no rubbing. I put "add a leaf" on the rear and cranked up the torsion bars enough to almost level the truck out. I've never really understood the torsion bar keys. I understand that it somewhat "pre loads" the torsion bar and gives you the ability to crank it up more, but It doesn't change to position of the torsion bar once it's cranked up to where you want it and I can't think of a situation where you would need to crank it more that what the stock key allows you to do.
Anyway, "add a leaf" and torsion bar crank and a front end alignment and I'm running on 33's. I do have Toyota 4Runner stock wheels with a offset of 8 (not sure if it's 8 or -8, but the tires stick out beyond the flares). The prior owner must have had a "healthy" lift to the truck because the front bumper has been trimmed a little on the bottom corners, I guess to keep the tires from rubbing. It had painted black rims with 4 completely bald tires on it when I bought it and the front end was 3" higher than the rear and that was long before the popularity of the ridiculous "reverse rake" trend that I see out there now. So, I can only guess that when I bought my truck the prior owner had some kind of lift kit with oversized wheels and tires that they took off before it was put on the car lot where I bought it. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the info @OldGuy . I put the keys on because they came in the kit, and hey if they help get me the lift I need without having to crank so much then its a win. New bolts and bushings are on the way and I can't wait for them to arrive. I definitely have to go the route of cutting the old ones out and replacing the bushings.
 

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I wouldn't consider cutting and rewelding mounts. If the axle assembly was off center, that would be easy to determine by looking at the tires and seeing if one stuck out farther than the other. Dodge used to make a 4x4 pickup in the early 70's that had the front axle offset slightly to one side and the rear offset to the other side! A friend of mine had one and I told him it was completely screwed up. He told me it was made that way and it was something new. He said it was intentional so the front and rear tires weren't in line with each other and it helped keep you from getting bogged down in mud or snow! I just thought that was an interesting idea, but it looked really goofy when I rode behind him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Both sides stick out the same. I do think it is a caster adjustment issue. I was having a hard time getting the right side into spec. The bolt seems to be moving more than it should in the cams, so I ordered new cams and bolts. They just came today along with my new bushings for the shackles. I will be cutting them out and getting the rest of the lift installed this week. Once it's all installed I will update on the progress.
 

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What are you rubbing on? I can't believe nobody had suggested this before now, but maybe you need to bulk up a little, or get a girlfriend/wife that's a little slimmer!!
I'm sorry, but I just couldn't help myself. When you put the new torsion keys in, did you count the number of turns it took to remove all tension from the torsion bars? The important thing when completely "unloading" and "reloading" tension on the torsion bars is to make sure you restore it to the state it was in before messing with it. It's not as important to crank both sides up the same number of turns as it is to crank each one up the number of turns it was to start with. As mentioned, one might be weaker than the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Haha, I'm already 6"3 205ish. Maybe a little bulk would help lol.
I did not count the turns when I changed the keys. I do know the right has a solid full turn more than the left and the truck is level at all 4 corners. I've measured, adjusted, driven...rinse, repeat. Several times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lift is on. No more rub. Replaced the camber/caster plates and should have also gotten the pins. That will be on my next order. Was able to get everything in spec except the caster on the right side, and its just barely out of spec.
Mounted up the 285s and they rub just barely, (probably from the caster) so I will stick with the 265s for a little while.
She definitely looks better. On to a few other things while I wear out these tires.
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Here is a side by side booty shot for comparison with my shop truck. It's a 2011 3.7l 2wd crew cab.
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