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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sorry, if this is redundant.
I have a 06 3.5 crew cab coly, I recently replaced the water pump and fan clutch, thermostat, temp sensor, and upgraded to the v8 radiator, I am still having issue overheating, it runs at stop light with the AC on at idle around 3/4 gauge. My scanner says it's 214 degrees. A lil hot for my liking, especially since we have not hit the real heat season yet, but we have been hitting 110 for the past 2 weeks or so.and when I pull away with the AC on it sounds like a jet taking off, my fan clutch is unusually loud, then the temp goes back down to 1 click over half, which is around 191-194..... So I have read all of the other posts on overheating, nothing going to the severity of my situation. If I am being ridiculous, I am sorry, just a lil concerned.
 

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Low water and/or coolant level or a cooling system leak are other reasons that your car engine can overheat. You may also be experiencing a failing water pump or thermostat.
 

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Just a few thoughts on this . There is no upgrade water pump for the Colorado that I know of . A V8 radiator will have more tubes and greater coolant capacity than stock . It may be possible that your pump doesn't have the ability to create the needed flow through that V8 radiator . As to the noisy fan , if you don't go ACDelco for a replacement you will have that clutch lock up noise being louder and longer than with the ACDelco unit . That doesn't mean that it will not function well , it just is a noisier unit. The thermostat may not be opening fully , that's why you test before installing . The system may have an air pocket in it ,or a hose could be collapsing , or a temp sensor that is off in calibration . I would try putting the old sensor back in and see if the temps come down a bit . As dirtwarrior said new parts can be bad.
 

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as Old Time mentioned, it could be air pockets in the system. an easy check is that both hoses should be pretty hard to squeeze. (caution HOT, so wear heavy gloves or similar). the funnel method works great for this. another trick is to use less antifreeze and more water and add WaterWetter. i'd suggest a Prestone guage, the other cheap brands are not accurate. I wouldn't go below 30% antifreeze and 70% water rated at 5*F. from 214* to 191-194*, it sounds like your waterpump and thermostat are working.

temp.PNG temp guage.PNG funnel.PNG
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What is the funnel method? I ran the truck with the radiator cap idling in my driveway for 40min, never saw the coolant level drop in the radiator, the bottom hose is cool and the top is hot. Unless I am doing something wrong
 

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What is the funnel method? I ran the truck with the radiator cap idling in my driveway for 40min, never saw the coolant level drop in the radiator, the bottom hose is cool and the top is hot. Unless I am doing something wrong
You ran the truck at idle only? Does the heater get hot? When I bled the air from mine, simply letting it idle didn't cut it. I needed to rev it at 2k rpms for a couple of minutes. All this is done with the reservoir cap off. Sorry if I'm stating the obvious, but best to start with simplest, most common fixes. Also, 212F or so seems reasonable. I think the gauge is reading high if it is at 3/4 and that temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The first few months I owned this truck it did not overheat what so ever, right at 1 click over halfway. That was fine with me. But, I figured running at idle for 30 min with the AC on would warrant the same results at least open the thermostat and allow the coolant to move throughout the motor, but I was wrong. But guessing I maybe need to change the amount of cool and to water ratio. And also maybe burp the system.
 

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The first few months I owned this truck it did not overheat what so ever, right at 1 click over halfway. That was fine with me. But, I figured running at idle for 30 min with the AC on would warrant the same results at least open the thermostat and allow the coolant to move throughout the motor, but I was wrong. But guessing I maybe need to change the amount of cool and to water ratio. And also maybe burp the system.
I would get the coolant/water ratio set, then run the engine, revved to about 2k with the overflow cap off and the heater on full. That should rule air being in the system and the ratio being off. Let us know how it goes
 

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Also make sure that the front of the truck is slightly elevated to ensure any air in the system migrates to the radiator and your heater is set to FULL hot.
 

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I ran the truck with the radiator cap idling in my driveway for 40min, never saw the coolant level drop in the radiator, the bottom hose is cool and the top is hot.
your statements are correct, but, by using the funnel, it allows you to gently/slowly squeeze the bottom hose to help burp the system. if your hoses are hard after running around town for 30 minutes, it is unlikely there is air in the system. this may be your new running temperatures. with the A/C on in stop/go traffic I will see 212* temps, then once moving around 200*.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, do they sell a higher temp fan clutch? Because it's feel like a bogging down 4 cyl while I am driving around, and it always sounds like a jet engine under the hood. Maybe I will cut part of the coil from the thermostat, since a thread on here says it can lower opening and closing temp from 160-180.
 

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Well, do they sell a higher temp fan clutch? Because it's feel like a bogging down 4 cyl while I am driving around, and it always sounds like a jet engine under the hood. Maybe I will cut part of the coil from the thermostat, since a thread on here says it can lower opening and closing temp from 160-180.
I think you may have solved the issue in this post . The clutch fan will only give that ''jet engine '' sound until it warms up and then locks up . You state the sound is always there. If that's true the fan is malfunctioning . The sound should quiet considerably after no more than one mile , even when temps are at freezing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sounds like that as soon as I start the truck, and as it gets warmer in traffic it gets even louder. Maybe just a brand new bad fan clutch. It was an autzone special. Maybe I should order a new one
 

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Members of 355 Nation are not shy when it comes to giving you their opinion as to replacement parts and the only clutch fan people here say is any good is ACDelco / OEM . I'm living proof of this as I bought what I consider a decent brand , Hayden . While the cooling is on par with ACDelco the roar before lock up is now 8/10 of a mile compared to 2/10 with the ACDelco . The one time I try to save a few bucks on non OEM parts backfires on me . You may want to exchange that Autozone one for an ACDelco .
 

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Members of 355 Nation are not shy when it comes to giving you their opinion as to replacement parts and the only clutch fan people here say is any good is ACDelco / OEM . I'm living proof of this as I bought what I consider a decent brand , Hayden . While the cooling is on par with ACDelco the roar before lock up is now 8/10 of a mile compared to 2/10 with the ACDelco . The one time I try to save a few bucks on non OEM parts backfires on me . You may want to exchange that Autozone one for an ACDelco .
I can attest to this, my experience being with a replacement wiper motor. The aftermarket one was DOA. Replaced with a Delco and problem solved. Makes me reluctant to buy aftermarket parts for such components.

Good luck to OP, sounds like a fan clutch could be the culprit. Especially if the temp is holding higher but not climbing.
 
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