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How was your mileage during the loose timing chain? I am still averaging low to mid 23's per tank.

I just don't have $2500 to throw at my truck at this moment.
 

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My question is..... are the timing chains that cheap that they are stretching out in +/- 100k miles???

I can understand sensors going bad and even a tensioner or guides.....but the f'ing chain?
 

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I'm with you in thinking that a tensioner is bad before the metal chain itself stretching. A rubber timing belt, a plastic timing chain either of those I can see. I can even see a tensioner not moving to it's full reach or wearing (certainly should happen before 100,000 miles).

After watching all those videos, I'm still not sure what was actually needed to have been replaced.
 

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@Unfettered

Yeah there was a measurable amount of stretch in the chain, but that damn cam phaser on the exhaust cam sprocket was more then likely the main fault.

The whole F'ing reason for a tensioner on the chain is to pick up the slack in the chain

....maybe I'm just thinking with common sense from the tech end of the spectrum
 

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Not enough of that anymore. LOL

I agree that the cam phaser may be to blame and that I may need a chain eventually, but until it starts to run bad and mileage drops off, it isn't going to be changed soon.
 

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How was your mileage during the loose timing chain? I am still averaging low to mid 23's per tank.

I just don't have $2500 to throw at my truck at this moment.
I was getting between 20.5 and 22.5 per tank, depending on the weather. I drive fairly conservatively, mix of highway and suburban, +65mph on the highways.

I'm definitely curious as to whether my mpg will increase after the repair. Now that the weather suddenly turned warmer, it might be difficult to judge.
 

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My question is..... are the timing chains that cheap that they are stretching out in +/- 100k miles???

I can understand sensors going bad and even a tensioner or guides.....but the f'ing chain?
I don't know that the chain itself was stretched. The droop was caused by the bad tensioner. The mechanic replaced pretty much every that showed wear or was inexpensive, since the majority of the cost was labor - $1700. Timing chain was only around $60. He said he did not have a way to test the cam actuator.
 

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Yeah the work requires to do the timing chain swap is ridiculous. It would be faster to pull the motor then all of the steps needed with the motor in the truck.

The damn exhaust cam phaser is a POS....but it doesn't help there is so little room in tolerance on the timing either.

I have a truck that throws a rare P0117, and the timing chain is not stretched either. Time to test some ideas via the PCM
 

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My mileage has actually been going up the last 5 tanks....22.96, 23.19, 23.42, 23.61, 23.91...(by fill the tank and divide by the miles). All 5 have been in the 405-415 miles when the low fuel light comes on. But as stated the weather has been between 35-75 degrees for about the past month. My usual drive is at tops 60 mph (rural roads with 55 mph limit) and I have found a route that adds 8 miles round trip, but due to fewer stops and lighter traffic actually save me time.

Then again, I may have screwed up the actuator when I had the wires connected backwards.
 

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DTC P0017 DTC sets when CMP sensor pulse is greater than 16.31 degrees out of sequence with the corresponding crank sensor pulse; as stated in service information.

Inline 4 5 And 6 Cylinder Engines With P0017 – 2004-2012 Buick Chevrolet GMC Hummer Oldsmobile | Gm.oemdtc.com

in the vid he states 4.4*. any idea how that correlates to the above 16.31? mine's been rattling for over 10k miles, but no code, so I'm gathering info to make sure the dealership is on the up-n-up when they put on the machine (anybody know what this machine is called?). thanks,
 

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Finally....had the timing chain and timing chain tensioner replaced today. The p0017 code is gone....forever, I hope. So far, my 2008 Chevrolet Colorado, with 49,000 current miles on it, has had the entire engine replaced at approximately 24,000 miles (November 2010), due to a bad thrust bearing on the main crank and now (Sept. 2016) it has had the timing chain and tensioner replaced on an engine that only had about 25,000 miles on it. Pretty sad.

Attached 3 pics that the mechanic took. The chain is definitely stretched after 25,000 miles. He said the tensioner may have been okay. He said it was extended to near it's full length.
 

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Hope I never see this code...
Only code my 355 has ever thrown is for low coolant temp... Oh and gas cap... That showed up on the DIC and not a code... Replaced thermostat and fuel cap and have never seen anything since... Knock on wood ... LOL
 

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Total was $750. The guy that did the job used aftermarket parts and he does mechanical work on his days off from his regular job. I think he mentioned he was charging me $20 or $25/hour. Normal rate around here in Iowa is around $50/hour for independent mechanics. The job/estimate book says it takes 18 hours.
 

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I'll have to find a good mech locally as I was quoted $4100 at the stealership as they are charging way too money on the hourly rate in the Wichita area (upwards of $125 an hour).

I don't mind aftermarket parts as much as I do paying that much money for turning some screws. Based on what I have read as to what else could cause the condition, my issue will be the end play of the cam, which according to GM warrants an engine replacement. My issue started after the 5 years were up on my warranty.
 
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