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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This bug is getting me crazy! I really hope somebody can help.

Truck data:
Chevy Colorado 2012 Crew cab LT 4x4 Z71 3.7L auto

Mode of Failure:
When I turn on the truck during the night or really early in the morning truck starts with all lights on (Lights switch on auto position). This is absolutely normal.
After using the truck for about 20 mins, the front park lights and door lights turn off automatically. Rear Park lights, dashboard lights and fog lights remain on.
After this happens there is no way to turn on the front park lights or door lights again, not even using the lights switch.
Restarting the truck makes no change.

After leaving the truck off for 5 or more hours (Cools down). Everything is back to normal, and again, after 20 mins of use, the front park lights and door lights turn off.

Actions taken:
Checked fuse continuity
Replaced relay
Check for loose connections

Other comments:
No Codes on the cluster
No other electric issues
The truck is 100% stock with no electrical modes so far to electric harness.


Any ideas from this community?
 

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What I found so far: The 'FRT PARK LAMP' fuse controls power to the front parking lights and the door background lights. The ground point for the driver's side door lights and the parking lights is G105, next to the ABS Module. The ground for the passenger side door lights is G106, behind the air filter case. The park lamp relay controls power to front and back lights, so that shouldn't be the problem.

So, if the door lights on both sides are going out, that indicates a probable power issue. If the right side door lights are not going out, look for an issue with G105.

Note: G105 is also the ground for the rear lights. That doesn't mean too much as there are a bunch of separate wires in the ground splice box.

Keep us posted, Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What I found so far: The 'FRT PARK LAMP' fuse controls power to the front parking lights and the door background lights. The ground point for the driver's side door lights and the parking lights is G105, next to the ABS Module. The ground for the passenger side door lights is G106, behind the air filter case. The park lamp relay controls power to front and back lights, so that shouldn't be the problem.

So, if the door lights on both sides are going out, that indicates a probable power issue. If the right side door lights are not going out, look for an issue with G105.

Note: G105 is also the ground for the rear lights. That doesn't mean too much as there are a bunch of separate wires in the ground splice box.

Keep us posted, Thanks.
Many thanks! for this info, I will check this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update to this story.

  • Park Lamp Fuse Replaced
  • Both door swtiches removed, connectors cables and modules checked. No visual damages.
  • Grounds G105 and G106 were checked. (See pictures). No rust, bolt retightened, no broken cables or damage to the splice module.

Gas Wood Bumper Motor vehicle Vehicle door


Automotive tire Artifact Wood Automotive wheel system Bumper



Additional notes on mode of failure.

  • Right after exact 20 min front park lights and background lights on door controls turns off automatically (Light selector on Auto position)
  • The problem is affecting background switch lights on both doors.
  • I tried overrriding the auto mode by placing the light switch on "All lights on" position. Result was the same. 20 mins exact and lights turned off
  • If I use the truck during the night, wheater is not that hot, the problem dissapears and park lights and background lights on door controls stays on.

And just like I saidn on the original post, early in the morning everything works just fine (Truck off for more than 5 hours).

Wheater has been hitting 100F on a regular basis, so I´m starting to think that the heat is affecting some component on the truck

Any additional ideas or help will be highly appreciated.
 

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Both door lights are affected. That means that it is not a ground issue because the right door lights are on a different ground. The rear park lights are not shutting off so the problem is not with the relay. The circuit for the door lights exits the fuse box in connector X7. The front park lights circuit is in connector X1. That kind of rules out wiring downstream of the fuse box.

My guess would be that temperature is affecting something in the fuse box. Next time it happens, before it corrects itself, check to see if you have 12 volts on both sides of the FRT PRK LAMP fuse. Do both legs of the fuse feel 'secure' in the socket?

This is a strange one!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for your reply!

During the weekend I didn't use the truck. But today afternoon I will perform this voltage test on the PRK LAMP fuse. As additional information. I scanned the truck with my BlueDriver tool and not a single code came up.

Many thanks for your support Byron!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Here is the fuse voltage check:

  • Ignition switch off, without the key
  • Light control switch to PRK lights ON position.
  • Rear PRK lights on, dashboard lights on, both background switch lights front doors off
  • Confirm 12 V on both sides of the FRT PRK LAMP fuse (See pics attached).

Fuse location
Font Blackboard Menu Chalk Handwriting


Fuse right terminal
Fluid Office equipment Gas Machine Drink


Clock Temperature Font Gadget Gas


Fuse left terminal
Office equipment Gas Office supplies Font Audio equipment


Temperature Gadget Clock Measuring instrument Gas


Ground point
Hood Automotive design Grey Automotive tire Automotive exterior



Notes: I checked temp on two different metallic locations in the fuse box.
Truck was sitting about 10 min after It was turned off.

1. Main terminal 125F
Automotive tire Gas Engineering Auto part Machine


Clock Font Display device Gas Electronic device


2. Board bolt 116F

Hand Gesture Gadget Office equipment Finger


Display device Font Gadget Electronic device Technology
 

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Well, another of my brain farts proven false. I thought maybe one of the rear park light circuits or the tow harness might be pulling the forward circuit down because they are all on the same relay.

Maybe, when everything is back to normal, try heating the fuse box to the temps you found and see what happens. Or throw an ice pack on it when the lights have failed to see if it recovers quicker.

Have you looked closely, with a light and magnifier, at the socket connections for the fuse? You can get 12 volts on both sides of the fuse even if the output side of the fuse is not making good contact with anything in the box.

Nice meter!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
About the fuse socket, it was kind of challenging to pull the fuse out when I replaced it. My fingers are fat and that thing was really tight. So I can confirm there is no play or wear on the socket.
Regarding foreign matter in the socket, I can confirm that there is no dust, rust, or visible damage to the socket.

I´m not sure how to heat up the fuse box in a safe way, but I will try to cool it down as fast as possible using a fan and will report the temp where the circuit goes back to normal.

Thanks for the compliment on the meter! I took some time to save money in order to buy it. I´m really happy with it.
 

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It's looking more like there is a problem inside the fuse box. I've been inside my fuse box, one time, looking for a circuit. It is not a friendly place to visit. If you have to go there make sure the battery is disconnected.

I'm about out of ideas for checking things outside of the fuse box. Maybe when the problem occurs, disconnect the two 3 wire connectors at the back of the park lights. Doesn't make much sense, but they are the only connectors shown in the schematics. The door switches could be disconnected also, maybe before the lights went out.

Shooting in the dark here!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Well, going inside the fuse box is way beyond my skills. If I do that I might mess up something else...
I really appreciate your assistance and kind help. Fortunately, during the night I have the headlights and fog lights on, so driving with no park lights is not a big deal anyway.

If I ever run across a good deal on a fuse box I would probably pull the trigger.

Thanks again and sorry for my poor English.

Have a great week
 
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