[stealthycat93]

hey guys i hope im putting this in the right section. but here it goes i got my canyon a year ago and ive never had the passenger door lock work at all i checked the wiring to se if i get continuity through it from door jamb plug to solenoid plug and i do.. heres the thing ive looked at wiring diagrams put a new lock solenoid reset the bcd and nothing im seeing about a light blue wire but im seeing 2 in the switch pigtail but im not etting a test light to turn on when i hit the button now both switches work and will lock and unlock the drivers side but not the passengers side. anyone else have anything different to try because im getting tired of not having this work. thanks and i hope i can get this to work asap.

 

[stealthycat93]

Bump... Anyone have any additional info? I hate to buy a bcm and be stuck with it. I get power through everything it just doesn't work.

 

[Jesse]

Have you tried pulling the door handle out and making sure the lock isn't gummed up? Does the solenoid even sound like it's working? And can you lock it manually or with a key?

 

[stealthycat93]

It locks by hand and when I use a power probe it will lock fine and then unlock automatically like the keys are in it just fine. I even got another solenoid to replace what I have and still no luck.

 

[GMFanatic]

How cold is it? I had the same issue. I disconnected the battery. Unplugged the BCM and then drove the truck for about half an hour. Fixed


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[stealthycat93]

Mine hasn't worked since I've owned it (its been a year). Would that change anything by doing it that way?

 

[Jesse]

Maybe you need to change your drivers switch out. :shrug:

 

[stealthycat93]

I did the oven trick on both switches and everything works. I guess i can order one in and wait for it to come back to see what happens.

 

[stealthycat93]

Ok.... So... I ordered the switch installed the switch and still nothing... So should I go bcm since none of the others have worked? That's the only thing I haven't replaced.

 

[cart7881]

If I understand you correctly, the passenger lock/unlock switch will operate the driver's side door lock, but not the passenger side lock.
The passenger lock/unlock switch works in conjunction with the drivers lock/unlock switch module. In other words, when you push the passenger door switch it sends an electrical signal back to the driver's door lock assembly. When the appropriate relay (lock/unlock) in the driver's door lock assembly closes, it sends power back to the passenger door lock assembly. There could be a loss of power between the door switches.
I would suggest looking closely at the wiring in the door jamb area on both sides. The wiring goes through a 9 pin connector in each door hinge area. Look for a Tan wire (unlock) and a grey wire (lock). These wires apply only to the passenger door lock assembly. Not sure if just one broken wire would cause complete failure to function. It would not be the first time for broken wires in the hinge area of these trucks.

 

[stealthycat93]

Well thats what i had checked. When i hit the lock/unlock buttons the light will come on in my test probe but wont allow the actuator to work. Thats the part i dont understand.

 

[cart7881]

If you have checked for power (for the passenger door lock) from the Drivers door switch to the Passenger door lock, I don't see much else in circuit that would prevent the lock from operating.

 

[stealthycat93]

My thoughts exactly. Im about to give up.

 

[cart7881]

Do you get this same problem when using the remote?

 

[stealthycat93]

Yea. Its like it doesnt work at all with anything the truck came with. But if i use my power probe it will lock and unlock right away. It wont lock or unlock when i go in and out of park. But everything else works fine. If i leave the door unlocked but hit the lock button when i open it the alarm will go off. Just absolutley clueless.

 

[cart7881]

Well you have eliminated a lot of the possible sources. I don't have access to the wiring diagram right now, but I think the only function of the BCM is to actuate the switches when there is remote input. I could be wrong, so I'll get back into the wiring when I get home. This is getting challenging!!! I know, for you it is just frustrating.

 

[cart7881]

This is a long shot, but it's about down to that now. Have you done a detailed check of the ground splice packs in the engine bay? The circuits in the door lock system use both of the grounds, the one one the left fender wall outboard of the Brake Control Module, and the one on the right fender wall behind the air filter housing. You would need to pry open the junction boxes to get a look at the wiring and pins. I say that it is a long shot because the lock system works okay except for the pax door.

 

[Screaminhelo]

Did you ever figure out your problem? I just picked up an 04 cc this week and it is doing exactly the same thing except that I have two additional doors that don't work properly. I hope to dig into it in the next day or two and any info would help.

After some basic trouble shooting without a meter, just playing with the locks and looking at the schematic, I am suspecting something common to both ALL DOORS relays; however, I am not as suspicious of the gray wire (295) as I am of something else since this wire is common to all doors up to the 309 splice. There are 2 tan wires, 694 out of pin 2 and 294 out of pin 5. 694 is unique to the driver's door actuator and 294 goes out to the other 3 lock actuators and is my prime suspect for a continuity issue.

cart7881 suggested the grounds but it appears to me that this system has redundant grounds. This would allow the system to find a path to ground on the other side if there were a problem. In addition, it appears that the windows use the same ground and a problem at one of these grounding points would likely affect them as well.

I am not, by by any stretch of the imagination, a rocket surgeon. If you can poke holes in my theory it would help.

Mac

 

[cart7881]

You may have noticed my comment "long shot" in the post regarding the ground points. I didn't feel that it would fix the problem as I was aware of the ground being used for other circuits. The OP had confirmed that he had checked all of the points that I had made previously and I ran out of ideas. I still feel that he is losing continuity between the driver's door and the pax door.

Looking at the schematics (connector pinouts/ wiring location diagrams/wiring diagrams) in the 2004 Service Manual, it appears that the circuit 294 TN, is for the unlock circuit for the pax door and both rear doors. This wire goes from the Driver's door switch module, connector C1 pin5, to the C202 connector pin 9 at the driver's door hinge. It continues to splice S308, under the dash, where it connects to the two wires to the rear door unlock circuits. From there it continues to connector C211 at the pax door hinge, and into the pax door. It appears that the two rear door unlock circuits split at the splice pack, and go down the left and right sides under the sill plates, to their respective connectors (C316 Lt & C317 Rt) at the hinge areas.

The gray wire that you are not as suspicious of is the circuit 295 for locking of the pax and two rear doors. Obviously, it will run the same physical route as 294 except for the pin assignments (C1=pin4, C202=pin3, C211=pin3). The circuit splices at S309, under the dash, which is where the rear door unlock wiring ties in.
You may also have a problem with the rear door "override" switch that is part of the driver's door switch module.

I don't think that the grounds are necessarily redundant, but I'm getting a headache from looking at diagrams, so this is it for now. Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[Screaminhelo]

295 (gray wire) is the second route that I plan to follow if 294 ( tan) doesn't pan out.

After re-reading your post, I do see long shot in there. If the power side of the circuit checks, I'll be checking the pins in the ground splices though. Unfortunately, electricity is much more logical than those who design electrical systems.

cart7881, the location of the splice group will save me time in hunting it down, thanks for that info. I am hoping that 308 and 309 are close together.

I'll be digging this afternoon and I'll let y'all know what I find.

Mac