[cart7881]

Locations: According to the Service Manual,

S308: Body harness, approximately 10.5 cm (4.2 in.) from the breakout to the accelerator pedal position switch.

S309: Body harness, approximately 17 cm (6.8 in) from the breakout to the accelerator pedal position switch.

I know that you need this info for troubleshooting, but those splice packs would be the last place that I would look for a problem. Possible, yes. Probable, not really.

Post what you find, okay? Thanks.

 

[stealthycat93]

The only thing that i have figured out is ive grown to become annoyed to the point to just find another vehicle. Its not a bad little truck but damnit i want my shit to work. I have a random coolant smell now but im not losing coolant. My abs light comes on at certain points now and i think its just time to find a better vehicle. Its got 113k on it and it runs well just pisses me off anymore. Its sad because i build racecars and use full stanalone fuel management systems programing solenoids to come on at a certain time so on and so forth. Im not a ford guy but im liking the superduty's.

 

[cart7881]

You have a ten year old vehicle, with 113,000 on the clock, and you are not expecting problems? I currently maintain four vehicles that cover the big three (Ford, GM, Chrysler) and there are problems with all brands. If you don't want to deal with problems, just keep each vehicle until just before the warranty expires. I view any problem that arises as just another challenge. The topic of this Thread was a problem with an electrical circuit. It's not rocket science, but needs some perseverance to find the solution.

Good luck with your Superduty.

 

[stealthycat93]

Perserverance ive had. Ive owned this truck for over a year and have pecked at this issue since a week after i bought it. My 3000gt vr4 has 174k on it and has fewer issues than this. My dodge stealth rt turbo has less issues than this and its got 151k and they are a 91 and 93 model years. That my friend is an electrical nightmare. And i was able to fix those issues. This is one thing that is just an absolute 11th wonder of the world to me. Ive put new parts in to see if it changed anything. Just in the off chance somewhere it wasnt good. Checked for continuity in all the wiring and was all good. The only thing i havent replaced was the bcm. Are they known to go out on these for that? And i do understand that at one point or another all vehicles are junk. I just cant figure out how to make this happen its soo stupid is why it pisses me off.

 

[cart7881]

As I mentioned earlier in this Thread, it appears that the only time the BCM is involved in the circuit is when it is used to lock/unlock the doors remotely. You were using a power probe at the passenger door hinge connector (C211) to actuate the lock in the passenger door. You need to take that power probe to the switch module in the driver's door and try to actuate the passenger door lock from there. Find the switch connector with 8 wires. The two wires that you are looking for are gray (lock) and tan (unlock). There are two tan wires. The one you want is right next to the gray one. If all other connectors are secure, the lock should actuate. If it doesn't, you have an open circuit somewhere. Remember, the power to operate the passenger door lock comes from the driver's door switch module, not the passenger door switch. The passenger door switch only controls the solenoid in the driver's door switch module.

Edit: Must have been having a brain fart. You will have to ground the one wire that you are not powering. In other words, if you want to actuate to the lock position, power the gray wire and ground the tan. The opposite connections to unlock.

 

[stealthycat93]

Ok so even though when i have a test light right from the actuator when i hit the switch and it lights up it couls still be bad? And should i give it a path to ground or energize the circuit to make it work? I did all of that on the passenger side and it operated still just the drivers side. Boy what a mess.

 

[Screaminhelo]

O.K. so my multimeter took a crap on me, so I wasn't able to check continuity. I was able to jump pins on the circuit board and nothing changed. I am going to go back to it tomorrow and repeat the process with a clear head. I had gotten a bit twisted around while sorting the pins out and I am not certain that I tested all of the combinations. It seems like I have an open somewhere at this point, I just can't verify that right now.

I have maintained and repaired my vehicles my self as much as possible over the years. I am now forced into more than basic spark chasing. Is a power probe something that y'all would recommend? Sounds like it would be a useful tool here.

Mac

 

[stealthycat93]

Power probes are very very nice. Its like a test light and a little power tip all in one.

 

[cart7881]

https://www.powerprobe.com/

 

[Screaminhelo]

Cart- I forgot to thank you for the splice locations. It appears that they are inaccessible without tearing into things under the dash though. I'll just keep them in mind if nothing else pans out.

To update my progress; I am getting continuity on the tan wire from the driver's door but not the gray one. If this is the case, should the driver's door lock be working? The problem is that I am having to back probe the connector because I can't get the connector into the cab loose. I also can't get the boot to go back on at the door jamb. Any advice on accessing this area would be greatly appreciated.

Mac

 

[cart7881]

That door jamb area is one of the most inaccessible places on the truck. The Service Manual isn't much help either. Have you tried disconnecting the door stop from the jamb to get a bit more movement. If you decide to, be sure to protect the outside of the door as it will contact the fender. From the diagrams, i can't see that there are the usual latching clips found on most connectors. Hopefully, it is just friction holding the connectors together. Maybe pull the wiring grommet from the door will give you more flexibility to pull the plugs aft. The boot that goes over the connectors has two retainers molded into it, one on top and one on the bottom. Somehow, you will probably have to get your fingers on the top and bottom and squeeze it.

If you don't have the pinouts for the plugs, and want them, PM me an email address.

 

[Screaminhelo]

The door stop was where I was heading next time I dug into it. It actually looks like there is a clip incorporated into the socket side that I haven't quite figured out. Hopefully a little more room will help.

On the boot, I just can't get it to stay on the fwd side of the grommet, my meat hooks just can't get in there to tick it in. Maybe disconnecting the door stop will help that too.

The pinouts could be useful, I'm pretty certain that I have the right pins but, according to the diagram, the driver's door lock shouldn't work if there an open on the gray wire. Documentation will be helpful in sorting this out. PM coming soon.

Mac

 

[MrRado]

I see this is still active and assuming still having the issue.
I didn't see any post of resetting by unplug the battery.
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.
.
.
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I feel ya. I owned my truck new since 05, eight years later with 39,000 miles. I like it's compact size. Now starting to go wrong. If it weren't for Iowa Farmers Law that was grand father in. I'm only paying $65 for registration. If I were to buy new truck, it's by weight now.

The only thing that i have figured out is ive grown to become annoyed to the point to just find another vehicle. Its not a bad little truck but damnit i want my shit to work. I have a random coolant smell now but im not losing coolant. My abs light comes on at certain points now and i think its just time to find a better vehicle. Its got 113k on it and it runs well just pisses me off anymore. Its sad because i build racecars and use full stanalone fuel management systems programing solenoids to come on at a certain time so on and so forth. Im not a ford guy but im liking the superduty's.

 

[Screaminhelo]

Yeah, just barely active. Since this is just a convienience issue, I am going to have to put it on the back burner. I just haven't had time to dig into it. I am reasonably confident that I have a bad wire in the door jamb area and I will post in this thread whenever I solve the puzzle.

Bill

 

[Tailgater]

Yeah, just barely active. Since this is just a convienience issue, I am going to have to put it on the back burner. I just haven't had time to dig into it. I am reasonably confident that I have a bad wire in the door jamb area and I will post in this thread whenever I solve the puzzle.

Bill

I know this is old, but can you please tell me if you were able to resolve this door lock problem. If so, what was the fix. Thanks in advance for your reply.

 

[cart7881]

Welcome to the Nation.

While you wait for a reply, that may never come, why don't you just start a new Thread and describe your problem, in detail, and see if someone hanging around can help. Include your truck info i.e Model (reg/ext/crew cab) and model year. Also what you have done in an attempt to correct the problem.

 

[Tailgater]

Welcome to the Nation.

While you wait for a reply, that may never come, why don't you just start a new Thread and describe your problem, in detail, and see if someone hanging around can help. Include your truck info i.e Model (reg/ext/crew cab) and model year. Also what you have done in an attempt to correct the problem.

I will do that. Thanks. I was hoping the op has fixed the problem since so much time has passed and they would be able to tell me what finally fixed it. I know it was a shot in the dark, but worth a try.