Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Back story: at the beginning of the summer of 2019 I was doing some high speed off roading with some friends and one part of the trail had deep ruts, I tried to stay out but the rear wheels went in and took the front with it, in turn snapping the right CV axle at the bearing by the differential. I replaced it no problem, but then about a week after that I went over a couple of large piles of gravel substituted in places where there was asphalt yet to be laid on a back road (pretty steep too, I was really surprised), blowing the new CV axle at the bearing by the diff again. After I replaced that CV axle with the one now it likes to pop out of the differential when I turn left, most times when there's a lot of load on that side like if you go around a sharp corner at a decent speed. My colly has a 4" rancho and I read that you lose a bit of flexibility but there's a spacer or something to fix that- not sure how true that is; anyways, I can't determine what would cause it besides either a screwey CV shaft that isn't fitting correctly (I've had that happen a couple times on the colly) or the part that holds the CV axle into the diff got banged up somehow.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
What brand CV axles did you buy for replacement?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
aftermarket CV's don't fit as well as OEM. my driver side CV is aftermarket, and MUCH tighter than OEM. I played hell getting it to seat, and then couldn't get it out like the OEM CV. I've got an OEM waiting to go in when I replace the hub, just need the temps to warm up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'm not sure of the brand, I got it from NAPA that's all I know about it, reaver how did you get it specific from GM? I'd like to keep it OEM, I have experience with the aftermarkets being really tight in there and if I can do what you did, I'd feel much more at ease about it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
I'm not sure of the brand, I got it from NAPA that's all I know about it, reaver how did you get it specific from GM? I'd like to keep it OEM, I have experience with the aftermarkets being really tight in there and if I can do what you did, I'd feel much more at ease about it
Rock auto sells ACDelco cv's, which is oem. They're about 225 if I remember correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,329 Posts
When you lifted your truck, did you put in differential spacers? That lowers the differential to prevent extreme angles on the CV shafts. I could see this being the cause of your problem if you haven't lowered the differential.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
When you lifted your truck, did you put in differential spacers? That lowers the differential to prevent extreme angles on the CV shafts. I could see this being the cause of your problem if you haven't lowered the differential.
The kit comes with all kinds of drop brackets, some for the differential are included. From what I could gather there's only strain if you're maxing out the suspension on the bottom end, like being air born (something I don't do willingly or on purpose) for a more extreme example. If it wouldn't have came with the drop brackets I would've thought the same thing you did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Rock auto sells ACDelco cv's, which is oem. They're about 225 if I remember correctly.
The price for ultimate salvation isn't cheap I guess ?? it's $223 for a standard OEM replacement and $71 for a "heavy duty" one, I'm not sure what that all entales, but seeing as my colly is no pavement princess (nothing wrong with those that are) I'm swaying towards that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,329 Posts
I still don't have any idea if you used differential spacers. When you raise the front end you make the differential higher than the front wheel hub. This causes the angles at each of the CV joints to be more severe than normal, so it puts more stress on these joints and causes them to bind. It also causes the CV axle to want to pull out of the differential. "The shortest distance between two points is a straight line." We've all heard that, right? You've created zig-zag. Your CV axle now comes out of the differential, slants down and away, then slants again to become level and then goes into the hub. You raise your front end and you create a longer distance and sharper angles. Putting spacers between the crossmember an the differential lowers the differential to maintain something a bit closer to the angles and relationship that a stock front end height has.
I'm just trying to help, and the problem you're having sound like the problems others have had when they lifted their trucks without using spacers for the differential.
Hope you figure it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I still don't have any idea if you used differential spacers. When you raise the front end you make the differential higher than the front wheel hub. This causes the angles at each of the CV joints to be more severe than normal, so it puts more stress on these joints and causes them to bind. It also causes the CV axle to want to pull out of the differential. "The shortest distance between two points is a straight line." We've all heard that, right? You've created zig-zag. Your CV axle now comes out of the differential, slants down and away, then slants again to become level and then goes into the hub. You raise your front end and you create a longer distance and sharper angles. Putting spacers between the crossmember an the differential lowers the differential to maintain something a bit closer to the angles and relationship that a stock front end height has.
I'm just trying to help, and the problem you're having sound like the problems others have had when they lifted their trucks without using spacers for the differential.
Hope you figure it out.
With the 4" Rancho there are, as I said, drop brackets, to lower the front axle so the cv's are level; hence why I am confused as to why the cv axle is pulling out of the differential. In short, everything is lined up the way it is suppose to be. The purpose of the Rancho suspension kit is to have the 4 inches of lift while keeping the rest of the drive terrain as close to normal as possible. There is no angle to the cv's when the truck is parked.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
My experience is telling me its a result of aftermarket cv axles. I've had issues regarding aftermarket cv axles being out of manufacturers specs.

Its also possible that the bearings in the front differential housing are bad on that side and permitting enough play to release the inner c clip.

Its very common for the 7.6" ifs front differential cv axles seals to leak which could have caused bearing failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,329 Posts
You did say that the kit included spacers, but you also seemed to say that you only thought they were needed if you got air-born. You never actually said that you used the spacers. That's what prompted my question.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys, I hope it isn't the differential, the seal looked like it was in decent shape from what I could tell when I put the current cv axle in but it definitely isn't out of the question. OldGuy, understandable I should've been more clear; They've been on the truck ever since the lift was put in. How are the cv axles held in besides the clip, like how does it work? Does that clip get locked into a collar or hook on the backside of a bearing? I want to say you're right WV, I've had the same experience as you and if i remember correctly, this one was a bit tight to put in but I didn't think too much of it at the time. Do you think I should try that "heavy duty" cv axle from Rockauto or just go with the OEM one from the get-to? I personally would like to try the heavy duty, however I also don't feel like goofing around with the same situation I'm in now
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
How are the cv axles held in besides the clip, like how does it work? Does that clip get locked into a collar or hook on the backside of a bearing?
Inside the differential carrier the clip on the cv axle locks in behind the spline flange. Not sure it’s actually a flange but that’s what I’m calling it.


Do you think I should try that "heavy duty" cv axle from Rockauto or just go with the OEM one from the get-to?
I’ve tried “HD” ones and my luck was bad. Others may have great success but mine always failed. I only recommend OEM now. I went through 4 aftermarket cv axles before biting the bullet and buying OEM. No issues since I paid for the good stuff.

Individual experiences may vary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,329 Posts
If the axle is actually coming out of the differential, have you looked at the motor mounts? Also might want to check the mounting bolts for the differential and see if they have worked loose. The only way I can see the axle actually coming out is if there is some shifting of the differential away from that side. Other than that, I can't understand this happening. When you installed the lift, did you change the shocks? We have bump stops that limit downward movement of the front end, but aren't the shocks the only thing that limits upward travel of the front end? If you put on longer shocks, is it possible that the shocks are allowing the suspension to travel too much?
I'm grasping at straws here, but just trying to visualize what might be taking place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Inside the differential carrier the clip on the cv axle locks in behind the spline flange. Not sure it’s actually a flange but that’s what I’m calling it.




I’ve tried “HD” ones and my luck was bad. Others may have great success but mine always failed. I only recommend OEM now. I went through 4 aftermarket cv axles before biting the bullet and buying OEM. No issues since I paid for the good stuff.

Individual experiences may vary.
Thanks for the imput, I'll follow your advice and bite the bullet as well; I'm sick of screwing around with that side and cv shafts so hopefully that's it.

If the axle is actually coming out of the differential, have you looked at the motor mounts? Also might want to check the mounting bolts for the differential and see if they have worked loose. The only way I can see the axle actually coming out is if there is some shifting of the differential away from that side. Other than that, I can't understand this happening. When you installed the lift, did you change the shocks? We have bump stops that limit downward movement of the front end, but aren't the shocks the only thing that limits upward travel of the front end? If you put on longer shocks, is it possible that the shocks are allowing the suspension to travel too much?
I'm grasping at straws here, but just trying to visualize what might be taking place.
I did check the bolts on the differential as they looked loose, put our low impact on it and it didn't budge. As for the shocks, I did get longer ones, I got the Rancho shocks that are associated with the 4" lift. I'm in the same boat you are as far as being confused. The thing is, is it doesn't always come out, which is good but also makes it a bit more difficult to diagnose (as we can all tell haha) which is why I'm steering towards either a bad "locking flange" in the differential or the cv is as what WV is saying, not to spec and a tight fit. God forbid a combination too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
When you pull the current cv axle out keep it to compare to the OEM axle you purchase.

Take a few measurements with caliper and see if they are different. It could be as simple as a c clip that’s junk.

I’ve never had my cv pull out and it’s easy to remove. I can put a large screwdriver behind mine and it will pop out with little pressure.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top