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Discussion Starter #1
2006 Chevy Colorado
2.8 L gas
Automatic


Hello everyone, I'm Josh btw, new to the community... I read what you were saying in the 355forum about passlock and grounds....man I am having a terrible time with my Colorado. I have replaced throttle body,fuel pump,ignition switch,housing, cylinder,bcm,ecu tuned and (supposedly) erase vats-passlock by pctuners of nc, cluster, crankshaft pos. sensor, camshaft pos. sensor, VVT solenoid, starter, alternator, battery is a fairly new red top optima, the list continues with buying crap for this truck and I've been grounded for a month and a half with a no start...it turns over but doesn't fire....I've checked grounds and rechecked and even put more grounds on to the frame.....replaced all coil packs, spark plugs, o2 sensors, purge valve solenoid,map sensor, fuel pressure sensor does it have to go to dealership it says crank angle shaft relearn necessary now since I changed bcm, I think my old one was bad and not communicating because I changed that like a month ago and never got the code error......what should I do?
 

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2006 Chevy Colorado
2.8 L gas
Automatic


Hello everyone, I'm Josh btw, new to the community... I read what you were saying in the 355forum about passlock and grounds....man I am having a terrible time with my Colorado. I have replaced throttle body,fuel pump,ignition switch,housing, cylinder,bcm,ecu tuned and (supposedly) erase vats-passlock by pctuners of nc, cluster, crankshaft pos. sensor, camshaft pos. sensor, VVT solenoid, starter, alternator, battery is a fairly new red top optima, the list continues with buying crap for this truck and I've been grounded for a month and a half with a no start...it turns over but doesn't fire....I've checked grounds and rechecked and even put more grounds on to the frame.....replaced all coil packs, spark plugs, o2 sensors, purge valve solenoid,map sensor, fuel pressure sensor does it have to go to dealership it says crank angle shaft relearn necessary now since I changed bcm, I think my old one was bad and not communicating because I changed that like a month ago and never got the code error......what should I do?
My truck would not start and I would wait a few mins. and then it would fire right up. It kept getting worse and worse. I finally read on here where you go up under the dash and there is a group of wires you have to find. I found a video on youtube.
Chevy/GMC Passlock II Bypass
Look this up and you cut the wire for the passlock . I haven't had one issue since I did this. The truck runs great and starts every time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My truck would not start and I would wait a few mins. and then it would fire right up. It kept getting worse and worse. I finally read on here where you go up under the dash and there is a group of wires you have to find. I found a video on youtube.
Chevy/GMC Passlock II Bypass
Look this up and you cut the wire for the passlock . I haven't had one issue since I did this. The truck runs great and starts every time.
Yeah but don't you have to have the truck running before you cut the wires? Also, if my ECU was tuned and had Passlock/VATS Deleted than why is this event still reoccurring? If the service deletes Passlock from your truck or vehicle system how could it reoccur or still play a part in theft security?
what is your fuel pressure? did you change the fuel filter? do you have bad gas? (I've seen this kick some butts before...)
I changed fuel pump which it has a filter with it installed in tank also put an inline filter. I'm not sure about pressure I am going to get a gauge today, I did replaced fuel pressure sensor once and one came with the new pump. As far as bad gas, that is what I suspected too, I took the tank out and it looked yellower than clear but I used two bottles of lucas and also some marvel mystery to stabilize it.... I dropped the tank cleaned it.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My truck would not start and I would wait a few mins. and then it would fire right up. It kept getting worse and worse. I finally read on here where you go up under the dash and there is a group of wires you have to find. I found a video on youtube.
Chevy/GMC Passlock II Bypass
Look this up and you cut the wire for the passlock . I haven't had one issue since I did this. The truck runs great and starts every time.
Yeah but don't you have to have the truck running before you cut the wires? Also, if my ECU was tuned and had Passlock/VATS Deleted than why is this event still reoccurring? If the service deletes Passlock from your truck or vehicle system how could it reoccur or still play a part in theft security?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
what is your fuel pressure? did you change the fuel filter? do you have bad gas? (I've seen this kick some butts before...)
Something I noticed is that for some reason my battery is draining ridiculously, more so than it was before in the past month since this truck hasn't fired or ran for long...the alternator and starter were also replaced not long ago maybe two months....
 

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Yeah I had to have the truck running to cut that wire. And your probably right if you have changed out the computer and put in a lock delete than I'm not sure that you would have to cut that wire and that it would do any good. I had replaced my fuel pump before cutting the wire because the first couple of times I thought that it was the pump. Then it happened after I replaced it and that's when I came across that video. I haven't had any issues since so I haven't had to check the fuel pressure.
 

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I had a very similar set of issues on my 2007 canyon, everything in terms of sensor voltage, sensor readings, fuel pressure were good but the truck still wouldn't start. Turned out the be an internal short in the engine ECU. A replacement and key re-learn sequence did the trick.
 

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Will the truck sputter and run on starting fluid? Just to see if it is a fuel delivery problem.
Do you have the PassLock icon light up or blink when you try to start?
Have you checked all the fuses and relays. I had a bad connection on my ETC fuse once. My sanity barely survived.
You will need the dealer to do the CASE relearn, but it should not keep your truck from starting.
 

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Yeah but don't you have to have the truck running before you cut the wires? Also, if my ECU was tuned and had Passlock/VATS Deleted than why is this event still reoccurring? If the service deletes Passlock from your truck or vehicle system how could it reoccur or still play a part in theft security?
Yes to your first question, BUT if it PASSLOCK was tuned out, I'd be restoring that wire connection if it was cut. I'm a big believer in returning the vehicle to the "as built" condition when chasing these kinds of ghosts. Aftermarket equipment (remote starters in particular) can create weird problems that need to be removed from the equation.
 

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Something I noticed is that for some reason my battery is draining ridiculously, more so than it was before in the past month since this truck hasn't fired or ran for long...the alternator and starter were also replaced not long ago maybe two months....
You need to find that current drain. Quickest way is to disconnect the battery positive, pull the fuses and relays (track where they came from), put a test light or ammeter (with a fuse) between the positive cable and the battery positive terminal, and systematically put fuses back until you see the light come on brightly or significant current flow on the meter. At that point you at least know what branch of the electrical system is pulling the current. Some things in the truck will always pull some current (e.g. battery backup of computers and stereo), so don't be misled by those circuits - look for significant current flow. Remove any battery chargers you may have plugged into the 12v power outlets.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Will the truck sputter and run on starting fluid? Just to see if it is a fuel delivery problem.
Do you have the PassLock icon light up or blink when you try to start?
Have you checked all the fuses and relays. I had a bad connection on my ETC fuse once. My sanity barely survived.
You will need the dealer to do the CASE relearn, but it should not keep your truck from starting.
Before I fixed the ground issue it would not fire at all with using starting fluid...which it wouldn't period without getting spark....but it is running now...not the greatest, but it is running...still have some links to work out..primarily on CAI, seems to be sucking air somewhere and can't find that happy medium to run smooth...I fouled up and did buy a jet lag sensor and that mess is hott garbage...should have not wasted $ on that....still waiting to get this on the road since all of my upgrades....thanks again for all the input from you guys!
 

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If your running an aftermarket CAI, I'd put the original back until you get everything ironed out. You wouldn't be the first with problems like this due to an aftermarket CAI.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My ecu is tuned and I have a ported throttle body...would it be worse effects by going back to stock since the computer is tuned?....or not....? And also did the resonator & airbox delete mod....I have a flowmaster exhaust as well just haven't put it on yet....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes to your first question, BUT if it PASSLOCK was tuned out, I'd be restoring that wire connection if it was cut. I'm a big believer in returning the vehicle to the "as built" condition when chasing these kinds of ghosts. Aftermarket equipment (remote starters in particular) can create weird problems that need to be removed from the equation.
Oh I restored that cut long ago...when I realized "oh shit", I didn't read that far down b4 I cut it...lol...that was homer moment, Doh!?!....
 

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Oh I restored that cut long ago...when I realized "oh shit", I didn't read that far down b4 I cut it...lol...that was homer moment, Doh!?!....
I had best buy install my stereo, which now I regret and I'm thinking maybe they messed up installing my deck....these guys were definitely amateurs and should have voluntarily quit their day job cuz installing stereo equipment for a living wasn't their strong points....I was pissed after the fact of seeing how crappy they did everything basically.....
 

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Best Buy isn't necessarily "the best buy".... Our factory stereos are connected to the vehicle data bus (keeping the chime function and other things) - I did my install with the precision of a brain surgeon using the Metra harness adapter. If they didn't go that route, I'd re-do it.

I'd bring everything back to stock, get it running well, and then "one at a time" start bringing in the mods. If the tune was done properly, it was probably done to stock plumbing, and I wouldn't be surprised if it ran significantly better with the stock plumbing over the aftermarket mods. If your going to tune the truck with aftermarket mods, you need to bring the tuner to the truck and do it "live".
 
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