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Discussion Starter #21
I had best buy install my stereo, which now I regret and I'm thinking maybe they messed up installing my deck....these guys were definitely amateurs and should have voluntarily quit their day job cuz installing stereo equipment for a living wasn't their strong points....I was pissed after the fact of seeing how crappy they did everything basically.....
IDK but ever since they installed it I believe however they tied in with the RAP relay or whatever they did it is the cause of constant draining which also when It runs battery juice down my truck either thinks I'm putting in a different battery or something I'm not sure how to word it....
BTW, nice truck! (What did you need a bolt cutter for?)
Lol, cuz I'm installing new parking brake lines and I cut the one on passenger side off cuz it was seized ...I knew it was junk so I wasn't really worried about it....but yeah actually it did run significantly better before....and I sent it off to PCtuners of NC...they were pretty Kool and not discrediting any of their work but I do think what you are saying is what I should have done....Thanks, this is my second Colorado both were 06, the first one was I had was all black Z71 4 Door w/ 5....It was pretty sweet but got totalled by my ex...hung up on train tracks and CSX freighter got a hold of it....luckily we were already out of it....mangled it like a crushed up soda can...my dumb ass took the rap and didn't had let my insurance lapse...I was just about to make a payment on like two days to get it current again...oh well live and learn I guess...
 

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2006 Chevy Colorado
2.8 L gas
Automatic


Hello everyone, I'm Josh btw, new to the community... I read what you were saying in the 355forum about passlock and grounds....man I am having a terrible time with my Colorado. I have replaced throttle body,fuel pump,ignition switch,housing, cylinder,bcm,ecu tuned and (supposedly) erase vats-passlock by pctuners of nc, cluster, crankshaft pos. sensor, camshaft pos. sensor, VVT solenoid, starter, alternator, battery is a fairly new red top optima, the list continues with buying crap for this truck and I've been grounded for a month and a half with a no start...it turns over but doesn't fire....I've checked grounds and rechecked and even put more grounds on to the frame.....replaced all coil packs, spark plugs, o2 sensors, purge valve solenoid,map sensor, fuel pressure sensor does it have to go to dealership it says crank angle shaft relearn necessary now since I changed bcm, I think my old one was bad and not communicating because I changed that like a month ago and never got the code error......what should I do?
My 2004 does the same thing about 2 times a year. Dealer can not fix the problem. I just think there is a bad crimp in one of the electrial plugs. I also have at times that the driver window will not work and the auto door locks not working. This happens 2 or 3 times a year. This is what happens with all this computer electronics in a car or truck. Never had any electrial problems with my 1969 Cougar that is over 50 years old. Sell that money pit and buy a foreign truck.

Rich in New Jersey
 

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You need to find that current drain. Quickest way is to disconnect the battery positive, pull the fuses and relays (track where they came from), put a test light or ammeter (with a fuse) between the positive cable and the battery positive terminal, and systematically put fuses back until you see the light come on brightly or significant current flow on the meter. At that point you at least know what branch of the electrical system is pulling the current. Some things in the truck will always pull some current (e.g. battery backup of computers and stereo), so don't be misled by those circuits - look for significant current flow. Remove any battery chargers you may have plugged into the 12v power outlets.
I just had a problem with my '05. The battery was drained over a few days because of the "truck" drawing too much current while sitting, I had the battery tested because I thought my new battery had a bad cell. The battery checked out OK, and they said it needed charging. I charged it, and still had a high current (abt 500 ma). I pulled the cattery cable and shorted them out for over 24 hours (it had been raining in Raleigh for a while) when I connected the battery, it would start, but the drivers window wouldn't work, and the door locks wouldn't lock with the fob.The lights would flash, but the doors wouldn't work.
I would up pulling the BCM out and shorting all the caps (I also disconnected the battery) I then pulled the driver door control and discharged the caps in it. After I put it back together, and connected the battery, everything was working again. And , after about 30 min, the current draw dropped to about 30 ma or so.
I still have a problem with the passlock light always on, but it doesn't cause any problems. I even changed the ignition Passlock module, light still on.
My point is, pulling the battery even for 24 hrs, didn't drain the caps to below the necessary low logic level to straighten out my problems.
I also found a youtube where a guy just pulled the door control (you have to dissemble it ) and shorted the 2 caps in the circuit board and it solved the problem. I did it on both.
 

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"I pulled the cattery cable and shorted them out for over 24 hours (it had been raining in Raleigh for a while) when I connected the battery, it would start, but the drivers window wouldn't work, and the door locks wouldn't lock with the fob.The lights would flash, but the doors wouldn't work."
Believe it or not this is a common problem. I have consistently fixed this on my truck after extended battery disconnections (believe it or not) by pulling the window/lock control switch panel from the drivers door, and heating it up with a hair dryer, and then putting it back in. I tried shorting the caps in the panel but it didn't work, and I came to the conclusion that the people that did this to get it to work were really letting the board warm up as they worked on it. I'm thinking the relays on the board were sticking and heating them up got them to settle in their normal rest state.

Is is possible a past owner did the wire cut mod to disable the PASSLOCK, which would cause the light to always be on, but the truck always starts?
 
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