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Discussion Starter #21
I've got a black 2012. I bought mine when we found out we had our second kid on the way. It had more room in the back seat than anything we had at the time but now that our kids are 7 and 14 it is a little cramped back there. I took the factory bed liner out and put herculiner bed liner on it myself. Bought it at PepBoys. It was one of the easiest things I've ever done on any vehicle! I sanded and prepped one day and put the liner on the next day. I live in upstate SC and don't have a garage. I did it in the summer so I could (hopefully) do it without any rain. If you aren't going to be hauling a lot of stuff, I'd suggest using the liner once you get the bed repaired and then put a full shell on there. Those mats will hold moisture, not as much as the factory bed liner but it will still be there. I've got an ARE full cover on mine now and I couldn't be happier. I wrestled with choosing between tonneau and camper shell for months then decided that the camper shell gave me the most bang for my buck with a lot less hassle when hauling something taller than the sides. Hauling kids means hauling a lot of other stuff and having a watertight cover on the bed is fantastic. I had a tonneau on a 94 Z71 that looked great but was a pain any time I had to get into the bed.
When you did the herculiner, did you spray or roll? Luckily I do have a garage here that I can use to do mine in.
I'm considering just finding a shop that will do the sheet metal repair and the bed liner all in one convenient stop...
 

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Nice truck!

I bought a 2010 z85 ext cab, 4x4 last fall and put off pulling the factory bedliner because I didn't want to really know what I was in for,,,,,,,lol I yanked the bedliner last week and was rather relieved to only see 4 small holes after cleaning all the crap out from underneath that pos factory liner.
And every hole is precisely where your hole is, on the seam. Seriously faulty manufacturing imho, the seam sealer was applied in a bead, but that was all, it wasn't worked into the seam and in places that bead of sealer didn't even cover the seam.
I was able to actually pull most of that bead off both sides in one continuous piece. I cut the rotten sections out and welded in some sheet metal. Then instead of new seam sealer I applied some Monstaliner by brush over the seams to seal them, and the next day I applied the Monstaliner onto the entire bed surface with an undercoat spray gun.
 

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Imo herculiner isn't worth the effort. I had bad results on my S10 and I spent a lot of time prepping and did 3 coats. Plus the texture is very gritty. Could sand a 2x4 with it. Maybe they've changed their formula since then which was 10 yrs ago but thats what I experienced.
 

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I also had a poor experience with Herculiner and swore off all the aftermarket bedliner materials until I was introduced to Monstaliner. It is designed to be rolled on and does a wonderful job, besides, being brush-on there really is no needed specialized equipment other than somewhere out of the sun.

With spraying the Monstaliner you can greatly vary the surface texture by just adjusting the air pressure. By the end of summer I plan on applying the Monstaliner on the sides of the truck as a gravel guard, and by using a higher air pressure I can get the texture to nearly match the texture of the wide Bushwhacker flairs. And it is available in a fairly decent amount of colors as well as plain black.
 

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When you did the herculiner, did you spray or roll? Luckily I do have a garage here that I can use to do mine in.
I'm considering just finding a shop that will do the sheet metal repair and the bed liner all in one convenient stop...
I rolled it on. It came as a complete kit for around $75. I did have to buy more sandpaper but the one gallon kit covered the bed, tailgate and up the sides with no problem. I even coated a 2x8 board to act as a barrier in the bed. It fits in the indentions in the sides and keeps anything from rolling around. Around here shops were asking $700 and up to spray the bed. I talked with a friend that had lined his entire Jeep interior and he convinced me to do it myself. I’m glad he did because it was so simple and saved me hundreds. If you’re not going to replace the bed with matching material, like a piece from another bed, then any welding shop should be able to fix yours. If you want it to match, you’ll need a body shop and that’ll run the cost up. Either way, I’d still say line it yourself. I was worried about sanding the bed of a brand new truck, how bad I could screw it up and how much it would cost to fix my mess but it was a piece of cake and I’ll do it again if I ever change trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Update! Over the weekend, got the truck back from my uncle's shop after getting brakes done. They also found out the driver's side upper ball joint was shot, so I had him replace it while they were in there.

Since the last update, here's the new stuff:
  1. PowerStop KOE15410DK Brake Kit (post #) @ 105k miles
  2. Transmission Filter and AMSOIL Signature Transmission Fluid (post #) @ 105k miles
  3. Driver's Upper Ball Joint (post #) @ 105k miles
  4. Cleaned up G105, G106, and Battery Grounds
  5. AVS In-Channel Vent Visors (post #)
  6. Driver's Side Swing Case (post #)
The Swing Case was on my old Colorado, just had to reinstall it on the new truck. The rest is pretty self-explanatory. Forgot to get pics of the brakes, but the coated drums/rotors look great.

341350

341351
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Update from this weekend! Surprise surprise, the third tail light was leaking. A new LED one showed up yesterday and got installed, nothing special just a chrome LED one. Also bought a BAKFlip G2 off @VTCanyon and put it on.

Didn't take a close up pic of the cover or light, but you can see them both in the pic below putting in some work yesterday hauling ~2500lb of railroad ties that will be used to hold gravel up for an added parking space by our driveway. The Canyon felt fantastic hauling that much, no issues what so ever pulling uphill or stopping on a downhill.

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