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· 2 timer
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Looking good....btw I hate white trucks! lol


(I own one and it's the only thing I really hate about the truck)
 

· 2 timer
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hahaha. I guess ill take that as a compliment? lol. I love the white. Its one of the reasons I got it. The color just makes the truck look clean.
Please do. I'm just upset that when I bought mine there wasn't much of a color option. It was just after GM declared bankruptcy, Cash for Clunkers was just announced, and I bought the last single cab automatic to be found within a 250 mile radius of Wichita. There were 4 other trucks at the dealership I bought mine from, 2 Summit White, 1 Silver Birch and 1 Doeskin Tan. Unfortunately, they were all Base WT models with no options, mine is an otherwise Base WT with the Automatic Transmission option (only option on the window sticker). I got it so I wouldn't have to try to teach my wife to drive a stick and the kids could move it as needed. I really wanted the Doeskin as it didn't look like a fleet truck. The WT model had everything I considered to be necessary on a vehicle (air con., cruise, tilt, cloth interior, carpet). I've had it almost 8 years and only wish I had found a crew cab at the time.

As far as it goes, the biggest fight we ever had was when I tried to teach her how to drive a stick on the 1982 Diesel LUV I had. I wasn't going there again. lol
 

· Pale Hooker
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1,811 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So unfortunately I'm working overseas again and obviously cant work on the truck. But this gives me plenty of time to think of new mods to add to the truck. IDK if I want to continue with the cheap build or not. I think doing so will keep it awesome but I'm not sure yet. Ive already proven that with very little money you can buy a truck, add some second hand / modified for free parts and make these trucks "move". Ive broken into the Top 5 fastest N/A i5's and I am currently the fastest N/A 3.5. Ive done all of this with VERY little money. What do you guys think? Should I continue with the cheap build or start buying actual parts for the truck? I mean it is pretty cool to say I have the fastest N/A 3.5L using only modified stock parts and using used and abused parts... thoughts?


So if I continue with the cheap build I want to wrap my exhaust manifold and use the intake heat shield stuff. I know, I know wrapping the exhaust manifold might cause it to crack but the truck isn't my daily and when I get back from overseas the truck will be sitting inside a garage until race days so the wrap doesn't really have a chance to get wet. I want to find a way to really expel the heat away from the engine bay. I might look into an actual cowl hood as well. I'd go ram air but that will cause more drag on the truck and we all know these trucks are like a brick wall traveling through the air. The more I can minimize drag the better.
 

· 2 timer
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Keep up with the build is my vote (but I'm also not paying any bills or driving it).
 

· Pale Hooker
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1,811 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
lol ok, well the cheap build will continue. No new performance parts for me, all second hand. This should be interesting. The only thing that will be bought new is the Nitrous kit, I'm not risking my safety for a second hand Nitrous kit. As far as the exhaust manifold, I guess no JTR for me, ill keep the stock gutted one and wrap it with DEI and then high temp silicone spray it. I found a 2in wide X 100ft long roll of it for about $85 but then I saw that summit has their own version (same dimensions) for only $60. Obviously I'm going with the summit brand lol. I'm considering wrapping the whole exhaust (it dumps right before the axle so its not very long)
 

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· Premium Member
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If you really want to improve aero on the truck, come up with some removable wheel well covers and a tear drop bed cover that smooths air flow from the cab to the tailgate.

The honest truth is that aero will do your truck absolutely no good in the 1/4 mile. If you were going for fuel efficiency or a high speed run it'd be a different story but even with nitrous you won't be hitting speeds worth worrying about aero.

If you want to go faster focus on increasing power, dropping weight, and putting that power down. Aero changes may give negligible improvements at best and just add weight.
 

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834 Posts
If you really want to improve aero on the truck, come up with some removable wheel well covers and a tear drop bed cover that smooths air flow from the cab to the tailgate.

The honest truth is that aero will do your truck absolutely no good in the 1/4 mile. If you were going for fuel efficiency or a high speed run it'd be a different story but even with nitrous you won't be hitting speeds worth worrying about aero.

If you want to go faster focus on increasing power, dropping weight, and putting that power down. Aero changes may give negligible improvements at best and just add weight.
:true:
 

· Pale Hooker
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1,811 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
yea when I finally get home I'm going to be doing a massive amount of weight reduction. Anything that isn't needed to go from A to B will be removed. All the interior will be gutted, AC system, battery relocation and a possible downsizing (something just large enough to get it to turn over) wheel well plastics, floor of the bed possibly, shit I might even get rid of the swaybars to shave some weight.
 

· Pale Hooker
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
actually now that I think of it I wont relocate the battery. Ill still get something smaller though. The amount of weight generated from the amount of wire required to relocate the battery would negate getting a smaller one.
 

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That's how I got my truck to have some pep at the track. I dropped 190 lbs removing things. I haven't gone to the extent you mention, but if I ever did I think I could drop another 50+ lbs.

I took off the tailgate, swaybars, passenger seat, spare tire, jack, and then all the little random stuff I normally keep in it. I weighed everything. These little trucks surprise people.

I don't have the power after the 1/8th to gain much, but I am pretty good at beating full size v8's, 350z's, and late 90 - early 2000 v8 mustangs to the 1/8th. It's when I shift into 3rd it falls on its face.
 

· Pale Hooker
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
damn. may want to adjust your shift points. You can probably run a little faster in the 1/8th if you can adjust it to where youre at the top of second crossing over the line.

On a different note Ive been researching what gear ration I should go with. I currently have 3.73s but I was considering going 4.10s. After reading this article:
How to determine the right gear ratio for your car
Ive decided 4.10s is definitely where I'm going to go. Ill have to do some re-tuning and tweeking but once I get the tune squared away for the 4.10s ill SCOOT down the track pretty damn quickly.
 

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https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-geareng.aspx

Here is a good visual on what rpm and speed you will be at factoring in your transmission gear ratios, tire diameter, and axle ratio. It's kinda fun the play around with.

I also converted your DA to sea level using your timeslip.

I'm curious about how accurate it is. For your DA and time it seems reasonable. When I converted mine from my best time, it said I would do a 14.966.
 
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