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768 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok guys, ive recently bought a new clear gun and a new base gun. i did a demo on several different paint guns and took a lot of notes on them so i could choose the best one to suit my needs, style of painting, and other general information. i will answer any questions on any of the guns listed. i hope this helps out in some way!!!! any other opinions would be great.

you can buy most of these guns online at this web site.

all guns i tried where gravity feed.


harbor freight central pneumatic guns ($20-$40)
- comes with a 1.4 needle and tip in the gun
- good for a primer gun due to the extra 1.8 tip and needle it comes with in a kit
- good for painting interior trim and small house hold projects
- if settings are right then you can spray primer, base, and clear (even though i dnt recommend it due to contamination)
- great and inexpensive way to learn to play with paint and body work.
- easy to take apart and clean.
- does not last but maybe a few months due to the cheap craftsmanship.

devilbiss starting line gun set ($130)
- great for hobbyists to get because they spray nice.
- great kit for students because its inexpensive, u get 2 guns and an astro da sander.
- easy to take apart and clean.
- comes with a carrying case for easy storage.
- nice spray pattern and good seals.
- kinda heavy and can get ur arm tired.
- sprays consistent and easy to adjust.
- large fan (about 12 inch fan)
- would be great for base if on low budget for a base gun.
- touch up gun is crap

Sharpe Finex FX2000 ($103-$150)
- great inexpensive all around gun for hobbyists, at home projects, and students.
- can last a long time and parts are affordable, good quality, and easily replaceable if something does break
- great atomization and a nice fast spray pattern
- can get 1.0, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5 and 1.8 tips, needles, and fluid caps
- light weight without feeling like u could break it
- easy to adjust
- sprays base coat and primers best
- sprays clear good but easy to make orange peel and dry spray which over time would be better for beginners or students because it means u have to learn to have better control.
- can be used for primers or base if u decide to upgrade.
- i highly recommend this gun because of the great performance and price.


Devilbiss Finishline 3 Kit (Value kit- $170, Master kit- $230)
- comes in many kits to suit ur needs
- value kit $170 (3 tips, regulator w/gauge, 1 liter cup)
- master kit $230 (4 tips, regulator w/ gauge, 1 liter cup, carrying case)
- master 2 gun kit $335 ( 2 full size finishline guns, 4 tips, 2 1 liter cups, regulator w/gauge, free spray gun cleaning kit)
- also comes in a waterborne kit for u guys in California
- perfect all around kits with many tips for spraying everything.
- great spray fan and atomization
- easy to take apart and clean
- perfect gun to learn to spray with and it will last for years if you take care of it
- light weight
- sprays clear very well and sprays base coats like magic
- seals are good and durable
- mid spray speed, perfect for beginners or advanced sprayers
- all tips use the same size needle and nozzle so tips are easily interchangeable

Devilbiss GTI Millinium ($330)
- upgraded version of the finishline 3
- 3 tips in the kit, 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 sized tips
- a little larger spray pattern and fine atomization than the finishline 3
- perfect for if you want a great gun for base and a great gun for clear, with this gun u can have both in one gun and its easy to clean so no worries on contamination.
- sprays a little quicker than the finishline 3 but is a little more controllable and better quality on clears.
- only complaint is that it uses a lot of material and produces quite a lot of overspray in the air.
- overall perfect spray gun, but for the price you can get the finishline gun kit with 2 guns and i would recommend the finishline. but even so, you would not be disappointed if you did buy this gun. great quality gun and is easy to use and clean.


Iwata LPH400 ($505)
- not so good with base coats but has an amazing atomization for clear coats
- sprays kinda slow but is very efficient and lays clear like glass
- has mid overspray in the air, not bad at all
- only comes with one tip of your choice and the tips are quite expensive, but they have a "spinning" atomization which is great for clears.
- not good for general collision repair due to the slow rate of spray but is great if your building a show vehicle.
- gun is extremely light weight
- easy to make runs and sags because you will think u are not putting on enough of a coat when you really are. gun is kinda hard to get used to but when u do its a great clear gun. i personally like my base guns to be a little faster. but if you like to spray a little slower then this gun is great. unless there is trash in the paint then you dont have to wet sand or buff when sprayed correctly.

Devilbiss Plus ($300-$400)
- ive seen several different prices so i guess its where you shop
- high speed painting
- powerful atomization
- 9 to 12 inch fan
- sprays clear very well and is perfect for all over paint jobs
- never sprayed base out of it
- has many parts inside it so its not light as a feather but not overly heavy, but is very comfortable
- kit comes with 1.2 1.3 and 1.4 tips
- all tips use the same needle and cap so they are easily interchangeable
- low overspray left in the air
- no wet sanding or buffing if sprayed correctly. almost no orange peel or dry spray due to the speed. not as fast as the sata jet but still quicker than most. this gun has great speed and fine atomization for a glass finish. i highly recommend this gun if you want great quality at a reasonable price.

Iwata Super Nova- $600-$800 (found several different prices local and online)
- sprays a little slower than the lph400 but lays clear so smooth.
- extremly lightweight
- is made in base coat, clear coat, and waterborne versions(each one is spacifically engineered for each)
- basically is an upgraded and sleek styled lph400
- low volume low pressure gun which saves 20% more material than any other gun on the market... this means over time the gun will pay for itself over time depending on how much you paint.
- bad part is that it's extremly expensive but if your in California they offer a waterborne version of the gun. you can also spend 100 or 200 bucks and get the kit to change the supernova to a waterborne gun.
-i would suggest this gun for anyone doing show cars or doesnt mind spending a little more time in the paint booth to get rid of wet sanding or buffing in most cases. this gun is not for beginners in any way and should be left for those who have the cash to spend or those who own their own body shops. the gun is amazing but learning to spray it takes some patience.

Devilbiss Tekna- $382-$430
-comes in a pretty orance color. lol
- sprays like your average hvlp gun but extremly smooth
- comfertable, not too bulky, but not so small you feel like your going to break it.
- smooth trigger pull
- comes with a digital gauge so its easier to see what your pressure is.
- sprays better at base than clear
- perfect atomization for metallics. (not boat flake of coarse)
- bad thing was that the orange paint faded as soon as i went to clean the gun. and personally, there are cheaper guns out on the market that are much better all around guns. the devilbiss gti millinium and plus guns are better overall but the tekna did exceptionally great at spraying the base.

Sata jet 3000rp- (not sure on price but is at least $500-$700 bucks)
- crazy fast atomization and spray speed
- great for clear and works good for base as well
- unless your used to spraying fast you will make runs
- great for production body shops to get cars out of the booth quick
- lots of overspray but not as much as a conventional spray gun in any way
- comes in your choice of 1.2, 1.3 and 1.4 tips
- uses a lot of air so you will need to have a heavy duty compressor with a high cfm and a large tank
- bad thing is that this gun costs a lot, wastes a lot of material, and is defenently not for the hobbiest that sprays out of his garage. Mainly the gun is overpriced, heavy and the parts are just as overly expensive. it took me a few tries to get it right but once i got used to the speed of the gun it was great. cheaper materials spray like crap out of this gun though. id recommend this gun to experienced paint and body guys only.

768 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i sprayed all of these guns personally. the local shop here has demo guns for people who work for body shops or own body shops. i had a sata jet that i bought used but i sold it because i didnt like it. so i didnt want to post a review of it and have anyone flip out on me. lol. i ended up buying a devilbiss plus for my clear coat gun and a devilbiss finishline 3 for my base gun. i did all the research myself and took notes on the guns as i sprayed test panels with them 2 or 3 times.

but thank u for lookin out!!!

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329 Posts
I have always heard good things about iwata, but very unimpressed from the ones I tried. :shrug:( also limited by the guns i can use due to the latest EPA certifications)

1,827 Posts
Ummm top of the line guns......have you heard of "Sata" fucking sick ass guns. 3M also sells a good primer gun. I think it's a 1.5 or 1.7

295 Posts
Dude i could problably get you some business from Buck at Buck Wild Custom Paint he is the guy down the street from my shop and he was the guy that did most of the custom paint jobs at WestCoast Customs.

2 Posts
I apologize for bump the old topic, but I have some interesting observations that I would like to share, maybe this will help someone in the future because once I was on the lookout for useful advice.The HVLP guns use a higher volume of air as opposed to a higher pressure. This equates to more material on the car and less in the air.our compressor will work with some of the smaller touch up type guns (Iwata lph50/lph80) that are low CFM guns and maybe the Iwata 101 or 300. Larger guns need more volume and your compressor will run constantly to try to keep up and will eventually run out of air. Some of the larger guns take 15+CFM's which your compressor will not handle.

If you are painting whole cars that compressor will be too small. If you're doing motorcycle tanks, helmets, touch up work, flames on existing paint jobs you'll be OK.

Also--Make sure your compressor is capable of a true 8.5 cfm's because some of the compressor manufacturers inflate their numbers (pun intended). Generally 1 hp from your compressor equals 4 CFM so unless your compressor is over 2 HP your CFM # may be listed higher than it actually is. I use a 4.5 gallon Ridgid 1.8 HP (CFM at 40 is 7.6 I think) twin tank for airbrush work and I also use it for priming, painting and clearing motorcycle tanks and helmets. It will usually kick on once or twice when I spray clear or primer but it fills back up super fast and never runs low on air when I use my mini guns. I've used a sharpe finex 100 and a Devilbiss SRW with it recently and it had no problem. I'll be getting an LPH80 soon also. I wouldn't want to try to paint a whole car with either gun because the fan to small.

Using a smaller compressor like the one I currently use is not the best way--I am currently in an apartment without a garage so I needed something small that was portable. I have a friends garage to use to spray the primers/bases and clears but I do the airbrush stuff at my apt. My friend and I are in the process of getting a larger compressor for the garage.

The non-compressor guns you are talking about may be the turbine guns. I've never used one so I can't help. They are $$$ though. I'd rather just get a bigger compressor.

Good luck
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