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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all and thank you ahead of time for your input. I have a relatively insane idea that I am contemplating, but I would really like some input to see if it is even feasible. I have a 2004 Colorado Z85 RWD. It is currently bone stock. My plan is to install either the Western Chassis 3"/4" drop (which I've read settles to 4"/4") or the DJM 3" drop arms and rear 4" drop. I have been having an extremely difficult time choosing a wheel that I could live with. This is where I will lose most of you. I found a wheel that I like in a 17"x9" that has the same backspacing as the factory wheel at 4.5". The offset is -12mm. According to the offset calculator, that will leave my new wheels sticking out about 2.2" further than factory. I have no plans to add any flares, I just don't like the looks of them. More than likely, I will end up pulling the fenders and bedsides a bit. What I am shooting for is the "race truck stance" that a lot of diesel and full size guys are doing, not flush with the fenders but sitting out a bit. I am thinking of running a 235/45 or 245/45 tire (around 25"-26" tall). Is this something that is possible? I'm fine with a bit of trimming. Attached are some pictures describing what I'm saying. I wouldn't want quite as much stick out as the Duramax, but it gives you an idea. The Colorado has 18"x9" wheels with the same -12mm offset, and even though it is 4x4, it still gives an idea on how much stick out there with be.
 

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First off comparing wheels on a completely different truck isn't going to help each car/truck has different fitment. Also comparing a colorado with off-road tires won't help either as the tires will bulge out more than a street tire. 17x9 -12 won't work without flares. Look fore something with around +20 offset if you are not running clares
Not many "race trucks" on here but I could say I have a nice race truck stance. im on 18x9 +12 with flares. 245/40/18 up front and 275/40/18 in the back. About a 4/4 drop
 

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Love the truck Buddy! That has a great look to it.

Also OP, not trying to sound like an A$$, but I'm a bit confused by what you are trying to achieve. You say you want "race truck stance" but are giving examples of more along the lines of the 4x4 community.

Personally, "race truck" says wide wheels flush with the fenders on a lowered truck. Not sticking out. Maybe I'm overanalyzing your question,
 

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Love the truck Buddy! That has a great look to it.

Also OP, not trying to sound like an A$$, but I'm a bit confused by what you are trying to achieve. You say you want "race truck stance" but are giving examples of more along the lines of the 4x4 community.

Personally, "race truck" says wide wheels flush with the fenders on a lowered truck. Not sticking out. Maybe I'm overanalyzing your question,
Yeah I thought the same thing but I just posted what I consider "race truck" stance
a example
 

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I'm sure we all have different opinions of what a race truck stance looks like. To me, tires that stick out past the fenders just says "bad fitment". I've never seen a pro "race car/truck" with tires extending past the fenders. Some may like that look, it just not my thing. Racers use wheel tubs when they want to run big tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I say "race truck stance" because that is what the diesel truck guys call it, not to say it is a real race truck or that my truck is a race truck. I just thought some of you on here had heard of it before. Never did I ask if people thought it would look good, because its my truck. Reading my original post, you will see I stated my reasoning for adding the pictures that I added. The duramax has the "race truck stance" referred to many times in the diesel truck community. The Colorado is the only picture of a truck I could find with a x9" wheel and -12mm offset. I realize it has mud tires on it, it was just the CLOSEST example I could find of the wheel specs. Buddy, to say that a wheel and tire won't work without flares makes no sense to me. Define work. Flares won't add any clearance. Fortunately, I believe I'm going to settle and go with the enkei RT-6 18" x8.5" with 0mm offset and 245/45 front and 255/45 rear.
 

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check out wtracing truck. i think that is close to the look. 4/4 drop with any stick out will rub fenders pretty good. there is a good thread on flaring bedside. the front will be much harder good luck. and in to see progress.
 

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Another thing to consider with a 4' drop in the rear you may want to do a c notch or you will slap in the rear when you hit large bumps. I have the DJM 3/4 and went with a c notch. Also consider a lo pro crossmember too. Another point if you do decide to go with the DJM kit do not buy their shocks as they suck big time, I know as I tried them at first. get some good shocks else where. Once you get started do a build thread so we can see it. Also you will get a lot of comments and helpful advice too. You may get a few negative comments byt everyone has their own opinion so do take them wrong.
 

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RIP Forrest
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It's diesel tuner look. If I were to ever drop mine it will be something similar, I would do offset 20"s with some cooper zeon ltzs but run wide fenders and bedsides with about .5"-1" sticking out
 

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My suggestion, lower it before you buy tires. Once lowered, you can see what clearance you actually have with those rims.
 

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5cylinder and Tire slayer
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i prefer the biggest tire possible that will sit dead nuts flush with the outside



 

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I'm with Ricky on this one. The whole "poke" or "racetruck" stance is just another fad. Going that route leaves you with fewer options later on.

If you really want #becauseracetruck stance, get you one of these:

 

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OOOOOOHHHHHH I LIKE THE DEEP DISH!!! There's something about deep dished wheels front and back that just looks awesome to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
UPDATE:
First of all thank you for all of the input. Today I bought a set of wheels off craigslist that are my style, just need to get the hub bores opened up. The wheel specs are 18"x9" 5" bs 0mm offset. I'm going to go with 245/40 and 275/40 tires. I just ordered the DJM 3" drop LCA's and 4" rear drop blocks, as well as a set of Monroe MA759 air shocks and the Air Lift Load Controller II.
 

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Luv them hoochies
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Welcome to rhe forum cowboy

I think those rims will look good on there
Like posted u might need to notch but if u have the air shocks maybe not
Looking forward to ur progress on this

There is a how to on how to bore the wheels
Don't take the harsh remarks to heart
 
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